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Well the pistons will be replaced as will the cam, so that's your opportunity to set up the characteristics of what the motor will be. I went with approx 10.5:1 compression on my 289 and that does make it sound good, but I have to run 93 octane and I have to keep the timing pretty mild (like 8 BDC I think) and even then when its nice and hot, it still pings a little. I'd probably suggest 9:1 pistons or maybe 9.5:1. See I'm already starting to enjoy this build and it's not even mine
I literally have no idea what I'm doing. Leaning on my neighbor and the machine shop to do what needs to be done to have a reliable truck that runs on pump gas that will easily tow a boat. I'm hoping to learn along the way.
Got a bit more done today on the new 400. Got it on the engine stand and took the oil pan off. Believe it or not, there was actual oil in that motor, just never made it to the top end apparently.
And if I didn't mention it before, the crank turns easily and everything appears to be moving well. Haven't seen any damage or gouging in anything, although a couple push rods were bent, but that's it.
Yeah the bottom end looks a lot better than the heads did when you pulled off the valve covers.
Do you ever go to the 351c / 351m / 400 forum? I'm sure you can get lots of good advice in regards to cam selection and everything else from those guys. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum54/
Yeah the bottom end looks a lot better than the heads did when you pulled off the valve covers.
Do you ever go to the 351c / 351m / 400 forum? I'm sure you can get lots of good advice in regards to cam selection and everything else from those guys. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum54/
Didn't know there was one so no. But I'm going now, Thanks
So it turns out that I have purchased an earlier model 400 block from the Michigan Casting Center that is prone to cracking in the water jacket. Time to make a decision whether I spend the money to have the machine shop magnaflux it to check for cracks, or just go through the motions of a rebuild with the existing components to learn the process, then figure out exactly what the block in my truck is to see if that might be a better bet for an actual rebuild, but that will require A LOT of work just to check it. And I might find out the block that is in my truck is also one that is prone to this problem, I'm very close to the dates described as having problems. My truck was built in August 1977, and the casting codes prior to March 2nd 1977 are the ones that had problems, but only from the Michigan Casting Center. I don't think there is any other way to tell without disassembly, where and when my block was cast.
Well at 40+ years old I figure if it's going to crack it probably already did, so I'd suggest go ahead and get it checked out. Regarding the dipstick I think those are press fit. I'm sure it's got to be stuck as H E double hockey sticks after all this time, but if you've got a little propane torch (I keep one on the shelf and use it pretty often for stuck rusty stuff) I would hit it around the base real good and keep wiggling the top until you can get it to move.
got the oil dipstick tube out. took pb blaster and a vise grip. The block actually doesn't look too bad. I officially have a short block now, removed crank shaft and cam shaft. Only concern is Michigan Casting Center block from pre-Mar 2nd, '77.. prone to cracking in the water jacket area
Looked at the motor in my truck and it's date code is April 24th, 1979! Couldn't see a marking for the foundry but the date range was after they got the water jacket cracking problem figured out from what I've read regardless of the foundry where the block was cast. Funny thing is, my truck is a 78 and was purchased in 77 which means that the motor has been replaced at some point, which I did not know previously. So my neighbor suggested just doing a top end rebuild as my motor runs well, no pings or noises and it doesn't smoke at all, actually sounds great. And now that I am pretty sure the motor was replaced at some point, I think I may take his advice rather than chance spending the time and money to rebuild a block that is known to have problems. I may still take the block I have torn down just to have it checked out, but not sure I will rebuild it and use it in my truck.
Looked at the motor in my truck and it's date code is April 24th, 1979! Couldn't see a marking for the foundry but the date range was after they got the water jacket cracking problem figured out from what I've read regardless of the foundry where the block was cast. Funny thing is, my truck is a 78 and was purchased in 77 which means that the motor has been replaced at some point, which I did not know previously. So my neighbor suggested just doing a top end rebuild as my motor runs well, no pings or noises and it doesn't smoke at all, actually sounds great. And now that I am pretty sure the motor was replaced at some point, I think I may take his advice rather than chance spending the time and money to rebuild a block that is known to have problems. I may still take the block I have torn down just to have it checked out, but not sure I will rebuild it and use it in my truck.
That's great, I thought the last year for the 400 was around 80, but I'm not sure on that.
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