And just like that, the front frame horns are extremely empty...

 

I may have missed a post.
Why is it coming out and what's going back in?

 

This is going back in.



Swapping the 300 for a 351.

The current situation is now this...





Going to re gear the front, new axle joints, and ball joints.

Unfortunately I realized Summits website is wrong and I ended up with a ring and pinion that won't work with my carrier, of course they aren't wanting to take credit for it. So I'm waiting for a call back on that now. Goingto order another R&P Monday morning, a "thick" set so I can use my current carrier.

The reason I don't just buy a new carrier is because whenI opened up the front axle I found this.






Turns out my $350 rolling 78 chassis that I scrapped after stripping the axles from and selling the lift had a $250 Trac lok unit in it.

 

What years was the factory Trac lok an option, never seen a truck optioned with that.

 

Was the old motor a v6? From the front pictures they look the same LOL.
What gears are you going from and to?
You run high or low range and the size tires?
Dave ----

 

Last weekend I did some fiber glass work on the flare side fender.
Because I added a rear tank I had to add the rear filler door so got that measured, cut, glassed in and filler finished.
I did some sanding of both fenders but have a little more before I can prim them.



Fender also had a few cracks I had to fix, just 1 or 3




Yesterday
We had one of our foster pups adopted and some yard work so a late start on the truck.
Ever since I blead the brakes I have had a leak at the right rear wheel. A week ago I checked the line & bleeder and were tight so I pulled the wheel & drum thinking I would find my new shoes soaked.
Well was happy the shoes were dry but the new wheel cly was leaking from 1 of the cups down the backing plate and out. The wheel cly has been in about a year but only had fluid no more than a month.
I checked my local AZ and they have a power brake cly in stock but do not even list a non-power one so have to dig deeper to see if they are the same or not.

On the tail gate I use a washer between body & hinge as a spacer. It worked but needed a little more and I did not like the 1 washer look so a better spacer needed to be made.
Looking around I came across the fiber glass fuel door cut out. It was a little thicker and easy to work with. I laid the hinge on the sheet and traced the "foot print" so it supported the full hinge base on the body.
Did not get a picture but don't know if you could see them as they are the same foot print as the hinge but the spacing is good now.

Just as I was finishing that up my new rear lic. plate mount from Ron aka Reamer, showed up so had to test fit it on the truck.
Had to drill 2 holes on the bracket to mount to the truck but other than that it fit like a glove!


I then moved on to the rear fuel tank filler neck & hose, front I had done a few weeks ago.
When my brother sent parts to me, part of them was a stock flare side filler door on down to about a foot from the tank and cut the rubber hose and inner plastic vent tube.
The style side part I had where the bend was it hit the floor. I might of made it work but the flare side hose had the bend farther down and would work better.
I can get that hose and the part on the tank all ready together using exh. pipe & clamps. The inner plastic will take a little more work to join the 2 parts but I have a plan just hope its a good one.

Other than replacing that leaking wheel cly I think I have to get on the rest of the body work as I don't have much more little things to like this to do.
I hate body work and why I have been putting it off.
Dave ----

 

I honestly don't know, not even sure it is factory. The axles were out of a 78 though.

 

300 i6
3.50s to 4.11s
We run the low side, 35s.

 

Messed around with the John Deere a little more, got it running somewhat, carb is leaking gas and it has to be Choked to run, but it does run fairly smooth under those conditions . Carb kit is ordered, hopefully I can start getting some of the missing parts gathered up and put together. A 26 group 12 volt car battery is the perfect size for it and sure helps spin it over faster.

 

Good luck with the rebuild.

 

Well after the gear/carrier issue I sent one set back to Summit, then I ordered a slightly different setup. Those showed up yesterday, hopefully I can get a chance to get them setup Sunday.

 

With a v8 and a gear change it will be a whole new beast!

Cool you got it running .... sort of LOL
I take it it is a 6v system so yea 12v will spin it pretty good. Did that with a few old VW bugs.
Dave ----

 

Yea it definetly should wake the truck up.

 

Hopefully those gears will work.

Yeah it's a 6 volt positive ground system, has a generator and a magneto. Little marvel schebler carb.

Took the Honda four-wheeler out tonight riding, kept stalling out, think the idle adjustment screw keeps backing out, tweaked it and it's all it needed, I'll throw some loctite on it.

 

Found a new set of mower blades while cleaning up the shop. Don't remember buying them, but I sure will use them. Save me a run to HD. So got those put on. Also got one of the headers loose this morning. I swear I could have probably had the engine out as long as that took. Oh well hind sight is...