Yesterday before it got too hot I hit the garage at 6am.

I got the 2 wheel cly from Rock Auto Friday so set out to replace them. Both were new when I rebuilt the rear drums but 1 was leaking and I had not even driven it!
The leaking side came apart easy but not so going back together. Bolted up and line tight put the pins in the cly and 1 side would not push in WTH!
Pulled it out to look at and it now the pin went in?? So back in it went and had to fight with the springs! Took me 45 min to swap the cly the other side was like 10 min max.
I did a quick adjustment on them as I did not do that before and maybe why the low pedal ...... I hope!

Pulled out me Snap On vacuum bleeder and pulled fluid thru the rear as the front were done weeks ago. Pedal is still low with motor off so will get the wife to pump the brakes to bleed the old way.
If I still have issues will need to look at adjusting the push rods as the pedals, booster & master came from my parts truck so who knows?

I then worked on the fuel filler necks. What my FS came with I think was the FS part but was cut and spliced using exh pipe and rubber hose so I did not want to use it.
The front door & plastic box is FS as the mounting holes are different than the SS truck doors & plastic box. The filler neck I think was from the front tank of the parts truck along with the rubber hose and vent tube.
It went together easy with a little lube.

Then on to the rear filler neck & hose. My brother sent me a FS door, plastic box, straight neck,and part of the 90* rubber hose & vent tube just short of the tank. The FS hose would not reach the rear tank hole if Idid have it. I am using the SS rear tank, rubber hose & vent tube. I could not use the SS neck that has a 90* as it hit the bed floor and was to short to bolt to the plastic box.
So I used the FS straight neck & part of the vent tube (right side of picture), the FS 90* rubber hose (center of picture) and the SS tank hose & vent tube (left side of picture)

Short copper pipe & clamps to join the vent tubes together.

You can just make out the clamps inside the exh pipe used to join the 2 outer hoses together.

Now if you look the neck the vent tube is lower than the top of the rubber hose so how do you get the vent into it's holder in the neck? I used a coat hanger from the outside of the neck down into the vent of the neck and into the vent tube after the outer rubber hose was put into place. I hope the vent went into the neck holder.
It's a done deal now.

I don't have any pictures of this next part.
I also got FS running boards w/brackets and fender braces but 1 of the boards got bent pretty good from a fork lift from the looks.
I wanted the nuts & bolts and fender braces for my truck, mine was a mix of hard ware and missing the braces.
Getting the hardware off was a job as the carriage bolts turned in the holes use MAP gas to burn the fiber glass out so I get to the bolt heads with vice grips and got them out. I need to clean them up before I can use them.
Now that job turned into straightening the running board some to get to the hard ware that ran into straightening the whole board. Its a vary good spare but still going to use the ones I have.
By that time it was 2pm and 92*+ in the garage so I called it a day!
Dave ----

 

 

It was a full hot day!

I have seen that on the end ports outside bolts but not inboard.
Dave - - - -

 

 

 

 

Yesterday I did the ball joints on the front axle, they were actually surprisingly easy to come out.



Now today I have set up the frontgears just got to snag some right stuff to seal up the diff cover. Then I knocked out the old axle shaft U joints, and knocked in a new set of Moog super strength joints. I tossed the axle shafts in, and got the passenger side about ready to,set back on its own weight. Came in for a break to cool down, and bout to head back out to get the front wrapped up.

 

So I got off work this morning and began working on the truck. I got the front back together and on its own weight again.



Then I started tearing the rear axle down for its re gear.





Of course Fred was there to supervise.

 

Don't know if factory or not I just remember seeing them on the outer most bolt holes.
Than again it was a long time ago and I am old and can be a little of CRS!

As long as a bolt goes in or maybe a threaded stud as the hole does not look to deep and don't want to bottom out the bolt and not seal the port, you should be good.
Dave ----

 

Is that a spool in the rear? Does not look like a normal carrier is why I ask.
That is a lot of work and in the heat no less.

Fred looks thrilled to be out there in the heat.
My dogs only come out when I first open the garage then they go do dog things. If the wife comes out they will follow but leave when she does.
Dave ----

 

Yes it is a full spool that I put in when I originally built the truck.

Remi normally moves around the yard from shade to sun and back to shade. Fred wanders around doing hound stuff sniffing everything, but when ever I end up laying under a truck he always has to come get under it with me.

 

77mud, I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on this, but there are a couple options available that I'd like to hear some opinions on. The electric fans: Do I need them? Or can I get by with my existing fan? Is it worth the extra $290 to get the electric fans? If I get the fans or not, do I need to also get the Thermostatic Relay control for $60?

 

The orginal fan should be okay.

Electric fans are nice for sure, but on a driver it comes down the personal preference. If you do opt for the fans, I'd spring for the relay setup so you don't have to worry about turning the fans on/off.

 

Thanks, just placed my order. 3 rows are back ordered till June 1st for what it's worth, so I'll be waiting a while to get it but that gives me time to get other new parts!!!

 

They're a nice piece, we put one in my buddies 500+hp 460 and it does great. I've got a older 2row one. When I seap engines I'll probably upgrade to a 4 row.