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Old Apr 13, 2018 | 11:38 AM
  #1621  
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quest4reds
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From: Reaford, NC
Originally Posted by 77mud
So this box randomly showed up today....



Depending how far I get with the chevy this weekend maybe I can put these to work.
I wish parts would randomly show up at my house, especially if they fit my truck!!!
 
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Old Apr 13, 2018 | 04:54 PM
  #1622  
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Dusty I wasn't sure when they ended either so I checked wikipedia, it says stopped using them in passenger cars in 1980, but continued in pickup trucks until 1982.

Matt it also says if you don't want your 400 to be a dog you better put some flat top pistons in it to bring that compression ratio up (y)

 
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Old Apr 14, 2018 | 01:50 PM
  #1623  
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Well started pulling the chevy apart last night for a spider gear/carrier swap.





Got the new carrier setup, and bolted back in Then slapped the cover on it. Got to pickup some axle U joints back in it then re assemble it.

 
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Old Apr 14, 2018 | 01:54 PM
  #1624  
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Then I switched over to Ol' Blue and tackled the rear shocks that were pushing 30 years old. I picked up a set of KYB shocks at a steal so tossed them on the rear end.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2018 | 08:53 PM
  #1625  
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Well I did a little more looking at the block tonight, and noticed a bulge in the block in the water jacket area. Used some brake cleaner and wire brush to clean it up. No need to take the block to the machine shop to check for cracks, and definitely not to have any work done to the block, it's destined to be a planter in the yard, it's driving days are over. Still had fun and learned a lot tearing it down however so not a total loss.


clear cracking and a bulge in the water jacket area. This is a known problem with 400 blocks made at the Michigan Casting Center prior to March 2nd, 1977. This block has the MCC marking and date code of 6C16, March 16th, 1976.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2018 | 01:10 AM
  #1626  
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Unhappy

Originally Posted by quest4reds
Well I did a little more looking at the block tonight, and noticed a bulge in the block in the water jacket area. Used some brake cleaner and wire brush to clean it up. No need to take the block to the machine shop to check for cracks, and definitely not to have any work done to the block, it's destined to be a planter in the yard, it's driving days are over. Still had fun and learned a lot tearing it down however so not a total loss.


clear cracking and a bulge in the water jacket area. This is a known problem with 400 blocks made at the Michigan Casting Center prior to March 2nd, 1977. This block has the MCC marking and date code of 6C16, March 16th, 1976.
Man I am sorry to see that
 
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Old Apr 17, 2018 | 06:34 AM
  #1627  
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Bummer...
 
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Old Apr 17, 2018 | 08:02 AM
  #1628  
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Dude,

That sucks. So is it time to go looking for a 460 now?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2018 | 04:36 PM
  #1629  
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From: Reaford, NC
Don't think I'll be looking for a new motor, there is really nothing wrong with the one in the truck. So new tentative plan is to machine the heads off the bad block, new cam and lifters maybe springs, new intake manifold and carburetor, headers and exhaust and of course all the stuff that I forgot I'll need to do a top end rebuild like gaskets and such. My neighbor also suggested going with an electronic distributor, all new wires, new water pump, perhaps a new coil and I may dress it up with some chrome valve covers and or air cleaner but I haven't yet decided on that. Besides all that, getting rid of the AC and all the smog stuff so when you open the hood you'll see motor, not 600 hoses and wires other stuff.

So that being said, I'll have to take out the radiator to get a new cam in there so most likely will replace that with a new shiny aluminum one.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2018 | 06:23 PM
  #1630  
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When you buy one I highly suggest a champion radiator. You could probably get by with a 2 core which is $40 cheaper, but here is a 3 core.

https://left-eye-blind-racing-and-fabrication.myshopify.com/collections/champion-radiators/products/champion-radiators-ford-truck-68-79-bronco78-79-3-row
 
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Old Apr 17, 2018 | 06:24 PM
  #1631  
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When you buy one I highly suggest a champion radiator. You could probably get by with a 2 core which is $40 cheaper, but here is a 3 core one...

https://left-eye-blind-racing-and-fa...nco78-79-3-row
 
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 10:27 AM
  #1632  
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What about champion radiators?
 
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 07:23 PM
  #1633  
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Lol didn't even realize I double posted.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 02:04 AM
  #1634  
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Got sick of tinkering with old junky carbs and got a Holey 500 (2 barrel), arrived Wednesday, took me 30 minutes to install it, and I immediately the easiest smoothest cold start I've ever had since I got this truck 15 years ago.

 

Last edited by Cracker289; Apr 19, 2018 at 02:06 AM. Reason: Having trouble uploading picture
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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 09:39 AM
  #1635  
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Originally Posted by Cracker289

Got sick of tinkering with old junky carbs and got a Holey 500 (2 barrel), arrived Wednesday, took me 30 minutes to install it, and I immediately the easiest smoothest cold start I've ever had since I got this truck 15 years ago.

I also have a Holley 500 v2 carb on my AMC 304 in place of the stock Motorcraft carb.
It was the best thing I did to that car.
Nice thing is the is half a v4 carb and uses the same tuning parts between them.
I did find I had to go with a 50cc accelerator pump kit but that was the only thing I did not have in my Holley pit box for racing.
Dave - - - -
 
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