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@ blicharski1989: I wonder how the gear could come loose on your pump. Is it possible that you used a tool on the central gear screw of the pump to turn/crank the motor by hand? If so, it may have come loose?
With the early pump, a half turn of the central screw counterclockwise is sufficient for the gear to become loose and no longer drive the pump!
@ blicharski1989: I wonder how the gear could come loose on your pump. Is it possible that you used a tool on the central gear screw of the pump to turn/crank the motor by hand? If so, it may have come loose?
With the early pump, a half turn of the central screw counterclockwise is sufficient for the gear to become loose and no longer drive the pump!
Yeah it’s possible that I may have accidentally caused it to be loose. There’s not much holding the gear to the pump in terms of friction. Purely that bolt. I’ll be curious to see how the new pump performs. I wonder if my WOT values will be increased due to a stronger pump.
What is incomprehensible to me about this is that the cam gear turns counterclockwise and drives the HPOP gear. That means that the central bolt of the HPOP is tightened during operation because the wheel of the HPOP rotates clockwise and it is theoretically impossible for this to loosen
Assuming the bolt head stays in relation to the gear. A lot depends on the friction under the bolt head for it to self tighten. With a non-keyed straight shaft, the resistance to slipping is all about the correct clamp force/friction between the gear and the shaft face in the back. The surface area under the bolt and its radius is the minor player.
Assuming the bolt head stays in relation to the gear. A lot depends on the friction under the bolt head for it to self tighten. With a non-keyed straight shaft, the resistance to slipping is all about the correct clamp force/friction between the gear and the shaft face in the back. The surface area under the bolt and its radius is the minor player.
I agree all that is holding that gear on is the friction from the fastener clamping the gear to the shaft face. The shaft is not even tapered it seems. Obviously mine was not sufficient but it worked for over 100 miles until it slipped. Once it slipped it was done for.
I suspect that part of the gear to shaft, friction design is to protect the cam gear in case the pump has a failure and locks the shaft -- kinda goes along with the press fit swash plate idea
I suspect that part of the gear to shaft, friction design is to protect the cam gear in case the pump has a failure and locks the shaft -- kinda goes along with the press fit swash plate idea
Plus the links to some early work on diagnosing an early HPOP that Sean eluded to is attached
Thanks Mark that was just the one I was thinking about.
Originally Posted by HydroTek
I suspect that part of the gear to shaft, friction design is to protect the cam gear in case the pump has a failure and locks the shaft -- kinda goes along with the press fit swash plate idea
Originally Posted by blicharski1989
makes sense
I agree with thais idea and was wondering. Was there any thread and bearing mount on the shaft and bolt?
Man, I just caught up on this after a few weeks or almost a month and was bummed when I got to the second test drive part. I'm really hopeful you get it figured out and it's something simple (I guess if you want to call a few hours of work "simple") and it's just the HPOP.
Man, I just caught up on this after a few weeks or almost a month and was bummed when I got to the second test drive part. I'm really hopeful you get it figured out and it's something simple (I guess if you want to call a few hours of work "simple") and it's just the HPOP.
yep just waiting on my new HPOP to come today. Leak tested unit no issues. The HPOP gear came loose on the pump. It may have been my fault. I don’t really remember. Should be a non issue for a while. Engine ran fantastic before the failure
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