Agreed. The stock '03 cam had better off the line kick. I originally wanted a stage 1 cam, but you could only get a reground cam in that configuration, at least at the time.

Sea Trials, take 2.

 

I imagine that the 2003 cam is probably just “trapping” more air in the 700-1200 rpm range. The colt cam being more aggressive maybe loosing a small amount, reducing the dynamic compression sorta speak. Once I get on the turbo around 1200 it picks up nicely.

I decided not to run my ICP relocation kit at this time as we have some summer travels ahead and it it leaks on a trip my wife will probably murder me. Exhaust is wrapped and the ICP has a little protective sleeve I think they will be fine for now. The sensor is relatively new.

right now I’m fighting a minor AC performance issue. I think that I ended up with too much PAG oil in my system and it’s hurting performance a little bit. My discharge vent temps are around 46-48f which is decent but it was colder before. I ordered a set of gauges so I can stop renting them and do some troubleshooting. I may need to evacuate the system again, flush the system out of the old oil and re add the oil back. My system holds 14 oz on the excursion I put back in around 7 and I think it should have been closer to 3-4 range. The system may also be undercharged slightly. It’s been warm lately so I have some heat load to work with and can figure out what’s happening. It’s not the end of the world but I think there is room for improvement

 

There is definitely a difference in the 2003 cam compared to the '04.5 plus grind. I noticed it at work whenever I took out one of the test trucks with the newer cam. When I first started to look for a new cam, I tried to find a good used '03, but that's a minefield. I even considered reusing mine after I polished it, but finding good used 6.0L length pushrods to adjust for the under diameter grind (sloping grind) on the reman cam.

 

it’s probably the most optimal cam for a stock 6.0 in my Opinion. I imagine the cam change was probably to help out with a more aggressive EGR strategy to reduce NOX by harnessing more exhaust. I am overall happy with my colt cam. It does pull harder up top. I also noticed I have alot more turbo whistle just cruising around and a tad more boost. Maybe it’s the additional available exhaust energy to drive the turbine? Either way it feels smooth cruising around.

what’s your take on engine break in? Im
planning to do an oil change around the 500-700 mile mark. My worry is the rings not seating but I’ve got some good load on the engine already and sitting about 150 miles so far. I figure that ring seating window happens in the very beginning. Overall it’s a happy camper or so it seems. Maybe I should get an oil analysis done for peace of mind.

 

How are you adding the refrigerant? By gauge values or by weight?
I have these little things that help you to figure out if you have enough
oil by the way the filter reacts to the oil.

 

I weighed my charge in. We’ll the last can anyway. Excursion holds 68 ounces so I did 5 cans then measured the last can.

I’m going to take some new measurements for pressure now that ambient is 90f. My last readings indicated my low side was optimal but the high side was “low”. Could be a week compressor but it ran fantastic before. My gut says either under charged or too much oil is inhibiting the heat transfer

 

Way back when I did a small Ranger engine 2.9L V6. The first hour was when all that happened.
The big thing was to do some down shifting to load the rings with the decelerations when you went
from a higher gear to a lower one.

 

im fairly confident the engine saw enough boost and RPM variation to get them seated. Time will tell. Blowby seems normal on the engine. I’ll see if it starts using excessive oil. She ran great before so I don’t think it’ll be an issue.

It would be great if I’m just undercharged

 

I think the grater part of the beak-in happens in the first hours. But is not finished for a few thousand miles.

 

Are there any manufacturer's instructions on how to perform the break-in?

 

That is just what i recall and i am not even sure where i got it.

 

Originally Posted by eldridge201 View Post
Awesome.

Now, the question is, what stupid thing is going to happen next? Loose bolt somewhere causing an electrical issue? Starter goes out? A sensor that just happens to take a dump for no reason? I'm hoping this is it (truly). I know the hours that goes into these projects and it just gets frustrating but also exhausting having to keep tinkering. You just want to drive the damn thing. I really hope this is it other than something minor like a hose that needs to be rerouted or something easy but not catastrophic.
Is there a reason for being a jerk?

What the heck are you talking about? Where am I "being a jerk"?

The comments were clearly sarcastic and if you can't tell that, then I don't know what to say. Don't make something into something different than what it was and that's what you're doing by typing your comment. There's no need for that.

 

What are you talking about? So you can't read sarcasm either? Okay. Way to be. My comments were clearly sarcastic. If you can't figure that out, then I don't know what to say. As I typed to the other member, don't make something into more than what was intended and that's clearly what you're trying to do here. My comments were in jest and I shouldn't have to explain that.

What in the world would I have to gain by wanting something bad to happen to the person working on this vehicle? Please explain that.

I don't deserve to be made out to be a "jerk" because I made a sarcastic comment that should have been obvious.

 

Don't call me that. I don't deserve that at all. I have no desire or reason to troll anyone. What in the world would that gain me? Just stop and think for a moment. You're being unfair here with your comments and I'll ask you to stop. I clearly made a joke and don't appreciate the drama you're intentionally trying to start by calling me "a jerk" and then calling me a "troll". Enough.

 

blicharski1998 - I also noticed I have a lot more turbo whistle just cruising around and a tad more boost. Maybe it's the additional available exhaust energy to drive the turbine? Either way, it feels smooth cruising around.

I noticed that too, but I'm not sure it's not more about the turbo learning strategy.

blicharski1998 - what's your take on engine break-in? I'm planning to do an oil change around the 500-700 mile mark. My worry is the rings not seating, but I've got some good load on the engine already and sitting about 150 miles so far. I figure that ring seating window happens in the very beginning. Overall it's a happy camper, or so it seems. Maybe I should get an oil analysis done for peace of mind.


I'm right there with you. My view is that there have been a lot of technical understanding and design changes over the decades, and enthusiasts are not up to speed. Understanding TTY head bolts are a good example for me.

The honing of cylinder walls has changed. It's now more about a pattern and depth that stays in place long after the historic "break-in" to keep oil in the grooves to promote long life. And more precisely, grind the piston rings using an alloy, so they don't wear as much, again providing long life. We've got a '02 MDX with 252,000 miles that doesn't burn oil. It's not what the '65-66 289s that my wife and I bought as first cars would have gotten.

But from what I've seen out of machinists who rework engines, I have a hard time believing they are up to speed with the walls. If you read trade magazines like Engine Builder, they try to keep up on the data, but they are not at the top (from my brake years), and I'm not sure how much gets filtered out on the way down.

During my career, we occasionally did training events. It was a square peg in a round hole. Interfacing with auto industry engines on OE projects, the discussion would come up about dealership training. Those guys hated it because they said there was poor penetration. They would say I was crazy being online trying to explain brake issues. That was 2001. I rarely talk about brakes like I used to; I've learned.

Back to the point, I think we need to do a little more active break-in that the factory "take it easy for the first 500 miles", but I don't get as nuts as I used to, adding a few more accelerations post 105 miles or so.