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I switched the 3.73 axles to 4.10 after I had gone up two full tires sizes.
I blame the tire size before the change on eating two clutch packs.
After the swap and a 3rd new clutch I did not have any more issues.
Mine was 4:10. That little 2.9 (auto) was a good engine, I got up to 175k before It was hurting too much. I used to trailer my Ford 1710 compact tractor with a backhoe attachment with it. It had the 10" rear drums with the 4:10 so it could do it with care. But we're flat-landers here. It did require a weight distribution hitch, and carful placement of the tractor on the trailer.
The weakness on those was the TFI ignition module bolted to the distributor and the in-tank fuel pump. Don't know if you guys had that issue. One of the times I was in Dearborn I was talking about having to replace the TFI, and the two engineers brought up what they did was relocate it to the fender area, buying a block of aluminum heatsink material and locating where it was cooler and more accessible. If it had gone a second time I would have done that. From what I remember the failure usually was due to the heat sink compound failing. I believe there are now kits for relocation.
Completed the engine braking procedures to the tune of about 30-40 times.
Observation: crankcase blowby is “normal” don’t see anything too crazy. The engine consumed about 1.25 quarts. When I changed oil it was right at 1/2 way up the hash marks on dipstick and took 1.25 to get back to the same spot. Don’t smell any oil or anything abnormal. No leaks. I attribute that to the break in process.
Engine has about 800 miles or so on it at this point. Running strong no abnormalities or things to report. I’ll continue to monitor oil level but I suspect it’ll taper off as the piston rings should be pretty well seated at this point. It previously never consumed any detectable oil.
Mine was 4:10. That little 2.9 (auto) was a good engine, I got up to 175k before It was hurting too much. I used to trailer my Ford 1710 compact tractor with a backhoe attachment with it. It had the 10" rear drums with the 4:10 so it could do it with care. But we're flat-landers here. It did require a weight distribution hitch, and carful placement of the tractor on the trailer.
The weakness on those was the TFI ignition module bolted to the distributor and the in-tank fuel pump. Don't know if you guys had that issue. One of the times I was in Dearborn I was talking about having to replace the TFI, and the two engineers brought up what they did was relocate it to the fender area, buying a block of aluminum heatsink material and locating where it was cooler and more accessible. If it had gone a second time I would have done that. From what I remember the failure usually was due to the heat sink compound failing. I believe there are now kits for relocation.
I replaced the TFI and it did not really solve the problem. What fixed the issue I had was to put a new plug on it.
I would be driving ddown the road and it would be like somone turned it off. Because it was a stick you just
had to pop the clutch on it and it would restart. Once that plug was replaced it never dies on me again on the road.
Got to wonder how many were out there that that was the true issue.
Originally Posted by blicharski1989
Completed the engine braking procedures to the tune of about 30-40 times.
Observation: crankcase blowby is “normal” don’t see anything too crazy. The engine consumed about 1.25 quarts. When I changed oil it was right at 1/2 way up the hash marks on dipstick and took 1.25 to get back to the same spot. Don’t smell any oil or anything abnormal. No leaks. I attribute that to the break in process.
Engine has about 800 miles or so on it at this point. Running strong no abnormalities or things to report. I’ll continue to monitor oil level but I suspect it’ll taper off as the piston rings should be pretty well seated at this point. It previously never consumed any detectable oil.
Oh the nice feeling of a engine project that is going the right way down the road.
I replaced the TFI and it did not really solve the problem. What fixed the issue I had was to put a new plug on it.
I would be driving ddown the road and it would be like somone turned it off. Because it was a stick you just
had to pop the clutch on it and it would restart. Once that plug was replaced it never dies on me again on the road.
Got to wonder how many were out there that that was the true issue.
Oh the nice feeling of a engine project that is going the right way down the road.
yeah it’s humming along quite well. I’m interested in the whole oil rail check valve thing. I need to load the stock tune that puts my idle injection pressure Back to 640 and see if that contribution code for cylinder 4 comes back. I will replace the oil valve check valve if it does and report back if that fixed it. So far so good.
AC system is not working quite as well as it should? I’m back in AZ for 10 days on a family trip, I don’t remember how the excursion worked out here as we didn’t have it long before we moved
ambient 105f
low side 52-55 psi
high side: unknown don’t have my gauge set with me on this trip. Based upon a 137-140f condenser temp it would be 220-230 psi
Vent discharge:65-70f
that’s a delta of 35-40 degree F which in my head is pretty good but I would like the temperature out the vents to be closer to 50~
below 80 ambient I can see my discharge temps on the vent approach 46-48f Max air center vent Condenser temp
deg F
I had some Freon recovered from the system and got my low side pressure down to 45 psi instead of 55-60.
Another warm one New discharge temp with less refrigerant. Need my gauges to be able to get the whole story. An improvement for sure. Probably going to recover the whole system and start over. Not sure if the compressor is really bad. A good flushing and starting over work the oil may help. Don’t have any comparison data to see how the performance is.
P0272 comes back at idle on stock tune can feel a occasional hiccup at idle. Can’t feel it on the tunes. The difference maybe the stock tune idle around 640 psi and the tunes around ~1000 psi. Something to do with the injection pressure and number 4 injector. Leaning toward the oil rail check valve. Got the new one in hand for replacement Working pretty good!
So this morning on the way to an appointment I noticed that after returning to stock tune Cylinder 4 contribution cleared out but now it’s Cylinder 6. Two bad new motorcraft injectors next to each other? Maybe some compensation is making it hard for PCM to know who’s truly not contributing enough?
HPO system is almost completely rebuilt and IPR/ICP look great. Only really detectable at idle with a slight feel not always present. Usually when hot. Noticed a little extra white smoke when cold but clears out once above 100-120f.
Ordered an IDS VCM2 clone hopefully I can get some answers. What do you guys think? I’m hoping a relative compression and power balance will point me in the right direction.
Could this be a FICM issue? Voltages check out but im kinda lost until I get IDS. No cold start issues. It does seem to have a little more white smoke when cold than previously. Not heavy smoke but a light haze. Seems more pronounced when hot.
Mine was 4:10. That little 2.9 (auto) was a good engine, I got up to 175k before It was hurting too much. I used to trailer my Ford 1710 compact tractor with a backhoe attachment with it. It had the 10" rear drums with the 4:10 so it could do it with care. But we're flat-landers here. It did require a weight distribution hitch, and carful placement of the tractor on the trailer.
The weakness on those was the TFI ignition module bolted to the distributor and the in-tank fuel pump. Don't know if you guys had that issue. One of the times I was in Dearborn I was talking about having to replace the TFI, and the two engineers brought up what they did was relocate it to the fender area, buying a block of aluminum heatsink material and locating where it was cooler and more accessible. If it had gone a second time I would have done that. From what I remember the failure usually was due to the heat sink compound failing. I believe there are now kits for relocation.
I still have the special stubby screwdriver to change the module without pullin the distributor. not sure if I’ll ever use it again.
@bismic do you think this could be a oil rail check valve issue or a logic board ficm issue? Since it comes and goes I have a hard time believing its a base engine problem unless it was some valves not fully sealing? I am waiting on IDS but eager to fix these problems as I really feel they should not be here but such is life! Ficm is labeled 2011 international refurbished. Ficm harness and engine harness were replaced with OEM ford about a year ago. IPR and ICP were replaced also about 1 year ago. Could I have a nipple cup issue? I replaced all the seals and re-torqued to 100 lb/ft. My IPR at idle indicates there is no excessive leaks, zero hot start issues.
High side pressure 90F ambient Low side pressure 90f ambient. Feeling good. 40-46f coming out the vents. You can see a difference between the TXV system on the rear evap vs the fixed orifice tube. Overall system is working good and I’m done messing with it. Over charged definitely can hamper your vent temperatures. These systems are a little finicky it seems but once dialed in things are pretty good.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
not sure if I’ll ever use it again.
