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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 03:53 PM
  #331  
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Originally Posted by Fulthrotl
I'd never had any experience with A-1, but a quick google
can change all that... seems to be the ford versus chevy sort
of thing... for the horsepower we are running, either one will
probably be fine.

the VR box is another story..... during my quick learning curve on
6.0's, the one universal, without exception, both online and F2F
constant, was don't touch them with someone else's ten foot pole.

seems they have done a pretty good job of misrepresenting everything
they promised to do.... i'd almost be tempted to see if they would
settle for providing the ford OEM head gaskets, and you change them
out yourself.

at this point, i'd be so pissed at being lied to that i'd be doing a
merchant charge back on the credit card, and they can come
pick up their forking motor on their dime if they want it back.

probably the best solution being in your situation would be to
change the headgaskets myself, chalk it up to a "growth experience"
and move on.

the goal is to get back to work. how much will a weeks work cost you?
as for cracking the engine open, i'm sure that voids their warranty,
but after seeing how they have handled this so far, you may not be
losing much.
I was reassured they were oem, I will find out eventually, cause I'm never buying a other one. 2 is enough engines for me. Lol
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 04:02 PM
  #332  
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Originally Posted by run6.0run
Is there a way to distinguish between 18 n 20 mm dowel engines? Without removing the heads.
Take a look here.

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Differences between new 6.0 an old 6.0
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 04:54 PM
  #333  
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In so sick of bein pissed off.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 05:04 PM
  #334  
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thats how a real man gets it done! dont need the whole thing in a fancy garage!
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 05:54 PM
  #335  
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Got today's parts pile


Upper oil pan
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 05:55 PM
  #336  
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This concerns me. Can you see the rough edge?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 05:58 PM
  #337  
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Definitely not a new cover. They painted the cover and didn't bother to cover the coolant passages. I hit them with compressed air and most of it flaked off
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 06:05 PM
  #338  
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Should the connecting rods have play side to side on the crank???
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 06:13 PM
  #339  
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Rods are going to have some movement. I really depend on how
much is allowed. For that you need to look in the book for the
tolerances and check with some feeler gauges.
The info you need to find is piston rod crank side clearance.
I can try and look it up if you want. Just have to find the DVD.

On other things PMM has been here before in the hot seat
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...chine-mfg.html
I should of been watching closer on when you said who you went with.

Sean
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 06:13 PM
  #340  
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To give you a little piece of mind, the shortblock I put in is up to 2k miles already. So far so good.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 06:21 PM
  #341  
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Connecting rod side clearance is 0.012-0.024in or 0.3-0.6mm.

You have a PM.

Yea! I won one! (Don't worry Sean, I'm sure you'll get me next time...and the time after that..)

Anthony, here's somthing that may come in handy for you:
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...9&d=1327585304
 

Last edited by Rusty Axlerod; Oct 17, 2012 at 06:41 PM. Reason: Add and add again
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 06:23 PM
  #342  
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Looks like 0.3~0.6 mm clearance between the rod caps.

This DVD is COOL!

Sean

EDIT : Rusty must of been hitting the post button while I was typing
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 06:28 PM
  #343  
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Should I coat the oil pan gaskets with oil?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 06:32 PM
  #344  
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Originally Posted by run6.0run
This concerns me. Can you see the rough edge?
Are you talking about the outside edge of that seal?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 06:34 PM
  #345  
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I flipped my old block n checked it. They are about the same
http://youtu.be/pn6K1vElobg
 
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