I was crushed when you said needle bearings. I remember that day. I was on the fence about glow plugs,, they are less than a year old, but that isn't sayin much. I'm kinda sidetracked right now but should have the deck done today. It's a little guy. Lol. It's for an older couple next to us. With as much as we're not home, they keep an eye on our place. Just returning the favor.

I will do the glow plugs tho. Does the gb control module get weak? I wasn't noticing an issue, but I'm not opposed to replacing it either. I will get pics of the glow plugs.

My engine has been in Atlanta for 3 days now.I could've drove there and got it myself by then. . I should've rebuilt what I've got. Oh well

 

Sucks you have to wait for it. I live a 1.5 hrs from them so I just did pickup.

 

It's in Kansas City.


Wonder If that worked, Sean, lol

I'm gonna go get it in the am. Also finished my side job today. It's across the street, I'm prob gonna snap a pic,,, it's nice.

So I'm back to it tomorrow. I'm still in limbo about my old engine. What do I do to store it properly. I'm gonna focus on the install, then the rebuild will be a bit later, prob weeks, maybe more, I gotta make some $$$$$. I'd like to break it all the way down n maybe soak each part with oil, then maybe trash bags???? Id like to submerge all of them in oil, i prob could in used oil. No way with new oil. Too much $. I think some of the parts would break totes if i used them. Then I could do one head at a time, then the cam, then crank, ect,,,, Basically spread out the cost.

 

You have a space between big and party got to run it together.
Edit will fix that.

On preservation of the parts you could get some pickling oil
and spray that on. I would also use some vac storage bags
suck out as much of the air that you can and then heat seal them
or bag it up and use some large descant bags that can be
re-actavate in the over at about 250F for a few hours.
Yes that is what I said you cook the bags to drive out the moisture
If you do use motor oil get some cheep stuff. It's going to be washed off
later anyway. They also have some nice big heavy plastic tubs at Home Depot
that you could put things in for storage. I can check later this week and see
if I can get some of the big descant bags for the best price of FREE. That is
if my contact has some that his wife will give me.(good thing she does not tell him)

Sean

 

What is pickling oil???

Btw, how much does the bare engine block weigh?? I can kinda handle the heads, but the block might b a bit much. It would b nice to be able to carry the parts. The two engine stands are borrowed, I was gonna fix up a stand that uses the engine mounts then get the parts worked starting with the block and mount it on the stand. Then install each part and cover again after each part is added.
Should I be more worried about storing them after cleaning, honing, and basically getting them ready for reassemble. The wife might freak if I carry in the block on a cookie sheet to bake. Lol. I have some nice trash bags that I could prob vac with a bit of success. Shrink wrap????? Like new boats come covered with??? I know I'm bouncing around, just trying to figure out the best way that I can store it, then uncover, then cover, couple times at least.

 

More like the food storage type. You only have to
heat the descant bag in the oven and she won't
flip on that.
I see the EDIT worked.
I would not carry any major engine parts around. Heads
and short block. I think you will know if you have a motor going
to kick the bucket on you.

Sean

 

well, thanks, but classifying yourself as an idiot is absurd.
you are one of the smartest people on here. some of it is
a ****load of experience, but most of it is innate ability.
you can diagnose problems described by people who don't
know what they are talking about sometimes, and you
are correct.

it's like being on the phone with someone, and they tell you
what they see in the rearview mirror, and you tell them how
to parallell park.... and you are able to do it with a student driver.

mechanical aptitude has ran in my family. they have been
machinists back to the point where there weren't machines,
and then i think they were blacksmiths. i could read micrometers
before i could do fractions, and my birthday present when i was
seven years old, was a 6" swing lathe my dad rustled up for me.
so i've been fiddling with mechanical stuff my whole life. what
i prefer to do mostly is work on industrial controls and process
controls. it's more fun than just playing electrician... and i like
it enough to do it for free sometimes.

so, we all have things we do for whatever reason we do them,
but there are what, half a dozen folks on here who've been here
for YEARS helping people walking in the door with broken toys,
and i don't have the skills and experience to help with that,
but occasionally i can come up with an ingenious thing to do
that won't solve a problem..... and 6.0's sometimes
have electrical stuff going on with them that i can help with.

... and sometimes someone needs to get the pressure washer
out and clean the spittoons.

as for printing presses, the only thing you really need to know
is this:
STOKO® Skin Care - Kresto® 1/2 gallon pump-top bottle

best hand cleaner in the world. removes printing ink from
the pores of the skin... and on bad days, from the hair as well.
there is nothing filthier that a newspaper press.

 

back in the day, rust proofing was done with cosmolene.
it's harder to get off than rust.

if you are gonna store this stuff disassembled, i'd spray
some oil on the surfaces, and get $20 worth of these...

Amazon.com: Dry-Packs 10gm Cotton Silica Gel Packet, Pack of 30: Home & Kitchen

and scatter them over the parts you want to stay dry,
and wrap the parts in quite a few layers of saran wrap.

so, you have oily parts, with silica pouches next to them,
wrapped in plastic film. you are fine.

assembled engine, you have the assembly oil, which
keeps stuff from rusting... put all the silica bags
next to the engine, wrap with a ton of saran wrap,
and smile and nod....

i spent this morning on the USS Iowa, opening up
electrical control boxes and pulling control fuses,
to disable systems from being operated by curious
folk... those electrical starters and controls have been
on that ship 40~70 years, and when you open up each
control box, there is a bag of silica gel in there to prevent
corrosion from salt air.

i didn't see any corrosion in any of those cabinets. zero.

 

My Friend's wife gives the Large silica gel bags.
He deals with a lot of surplus military equipment
and there are a lot in the cases.

Sean

 

Lifter part # L2104, VL114, JB-2104 (Melliing).

You can get the Melling from Autozone for fairly cheap or shop around. Melling has a cross reference chart of all the manufacturers part numbers on their website. At one point I found them for about $7 each but that was 5 years ago from a local distributor in North Carolina. They fit NUMEROUS applications.

 

Thx guys. Lots of great info. I know the do not eat bags. Lol. Guess they work huh. By npcc, are those lifters good quality?? I'm lifter weary. Wish I could put 32 of em in there, so each has a backup. Ha ha.

 

Those were only three of the part numbers from the long list. AFA lifter manufacturers, I'm betting there aren't too many and most of them are repackaged. Melling has always been pretty good stuff, so pick a reliable brand that you like. Like I said, those lifters fit a VERY long list of vehicles both GM and Ford.

 

I will check into those.

Btw I'm pic happy

Here's my little side job


At the pickup


All these open doors n I'm waiting for them to pull the trailer in. That's how this experience has been from the start.

 

Cosmoline is still available. It works well. There are also newer formulations of CPC (corrosion preventative compounds) that are much easier to clean up when you get ready to use the parts. The "thin film" and "ultra thin film" CPC's are probably the best choice for your application. The parts will clean up quick with mineral spirits or even WD-40. After applying the product, just put a couple layers at plastic wrap on them so they don't collect dust and you're set for a good long time. For the silica dry pac's to be effective, the parts would need to be sealed air tight as they inhibit corrosion by removing moisture from the air surrounding the parts. Any opening that allows air in would render them ineffective when they are fresh and they would become saturated quickly.

 

Not cool. I opened the crate,,,,, big victor rinez box on top. They want a 700 restocking fee to return. And the 400 shipping. Has anyone heard or know about a1 studs. Mine aren't arp. No full gasket set either. They said they would overnight the gasket set tho. But the clutch is not there either. Different shipment. This sux.