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I'm not with the truck right now. Can't remember if there were two seals in the adapter bore on the rear cover
Well, there should only be one. With the cover off as you already have it, you simply tap the old seal out of the cover and re-install the cover onto the block without the seal when you are ready. You then install the new seal and wear ring using the proper tool as mentioned earlier.
Be Careful when you go for that first Drive Sounds like you sucked alittle Air Into the Brake system
That Brake Fluid Looked Nasty think I better do Mine
Oh How do you like that Brake Bleeder tool??? Do you Wrap the Beeder Screw with any teflon tape before Sucking the Fluid through???
I Have a Little diffrent Vac Pump And Everytime I Loosen the Bleeder screw to Suck the Fluid threw it seems I Also Pull alot of AIR threw the Threads on the Loosened Bleeder screw. I havent tried the 6.0L though But Soon Looking at that Greenish fluid you had going thats preety bad when it started out Clear fluid
Keep up the Great work This is a Sweet thread you have going here
I don't use any of the nipple attachments for the bleeder screw. I plug the hose directly onto the bleeder screw and cover the area with a small amount of grease. The small grease gun I use for my chainsaw works great.
^^^ The best way I found to make it airtight. All the time, every time.
I think you guys are on it. With the tool, I had bubbles in the line, which I now believe are coming from the threads on the nipple. I ran the tool for a long time with each caliper, then checked each one manually,,,, by manually I mean I loosened the bleeder, had someone press the brake, then tightened before letting up the pedal. Basic bleeding. So I believe that even tho there were bubbles in the line while using the compressed air vac tool, the line itself was free of any air.
My fluid was so nasty, that I opted to suck the reservoir dry. I ran a bottle thru the system after turkey basting all I could get out, and adding fluid didn't get the green out. It kept diluting with nasty fluid. I then bled the master cylinder alone, before trying to bleed the calipers.
The process would've been very simple with that tool, had my fluid not been so bad. It's never been changed. I'm anxious to see how they feel. Here's a funny,,, no engine, trans,,, remember???? We got done with the brakes, out of habit I said, "fire it up". Lol. I forgot there's no engine.
Anthony,
On Monday give these guys a call at
Delta Camshaft. They are in Tacoma and have the go to guys
for me ANY time I have done a camshaft and lifters. I have done
quite a few Delta Camshaft
I like the lifter video. Looks like that one was hit with a grinder
and later the grinder got the others.
No idea on that.
But they have been doing cams for
engine builders around here back
to the dawn of time. Everyone went to them.
In the past I have used three different shops
for the machine work and they went to Delta.
Two of the three shops are gone
The one shop has had the same guy and he is
still there. Does a good job too.
I have a fairly nice Hobart, do you think it would work with two tubes, one inserted into the other, like the engine stand. I'm sure it would b a pain to spin, but I was thinking about using the hoist, with a fat strap wrapped around and hooked to itself and slide it as the engine spins. Hard to explain. I was planning on spinning my new engine like this to do the oil pans. Its quite a bit heavier with both heads on, which they are torqued on the new engine.
You could get two 40.00 Harbor Freight 1000 pound stands weld together and make mounts they would have a crank on both sides just a thought. Nice write up on your engine you did right in pulling motor.