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I packed mine in wheel bearing grease upon assembly. I believe spicer says to pack them as well.
The Ford manual states the diff fluid is what provides the oil for the bearings but it also says to use a special oil on the bearings for initial use. I can not tell if the special application is just wheel bearing grease or something else. Looking at some youtube clips and seeing the same thing where some guys pack them and others soak in oil.
I'm reading up on the specs for torque etc. Did you just go tight and seat the bearings or did you torque them and back off?
I'm double checking those moves where I need to be sure. But on this one it seems like both way work.
If you'll be out doing some 4wd~ing Truck Avenger is a pretty good setup.
Good for up & down steep hills type of carb.
A little pricey tho.
If your looking for better gas mileage and want a 4barrle carb then look for a ford autolite carb 4100. I notice that, I got worse gas mileages right a way after putting on a Holley 600cfm carb. I' had even had it jeted down pretty lean. It was ok as long as I stayed close out of dry climates or would ping and drop engine idling so went back to #62 jets with stock cam that is.
I ran #57 jets in the ford 4100 carb with no problems.
And the Holley would run to lean on #57.
Now, I'm going to a efi Holley stealth Terminator setup as soon as all the parts come in. So I see how this setup works out.
This is about the last thing, I can do to my truck other then getting it painted,
as, I done as many of upgrades that, I could do.
Orich
Orich, did you go with the Terminator EFI? Do you like it?
I torqued mine down and then backed them off. Lots of guys just snug them down good and tight with a half inch drive and then back it off a quarter turn. I've done that myself many times and never had a problem. I know the rear diff fluid lubes the bearings but I packed mine just so things don't start out dry.
An RV cam is the farthest I personally would go. Remember, the farther steps you go sends you farther away from off idle and lower midrange power. I suggest contacting the tech people of which ever cam company you are a fan of. Nobody knows their cams better than they do. And how an engine will react to them. I Know MIKES 68 F100 is happy with his combo with a Lunati cam. I dunno how he gets away with 10:1 but if he doesn't chime in here you might PM him. Here is his sig:
390
10:1 C/R*Lunati 62001 cam kit
home ported heads/Flotech headers
Edelbrock performer intake /Holley 750
22 Gallon mustang gas tank Mod
Yukon Dura grip with 3.55 gears
Jeff, thank you. I will look for him...
Hey guys on this note, I found a place that looks pretty solid for a engine build. They will even break in the engine for a fee of course. But they want to know what I'm looking for, a stock 390 or something with a mid cam. Here's my list so they know what I want. Please chim in to add or point me in the right places.
1) Tell them it's a 7100 lb F250 truck and it should be a high tourque engine
2) The guy asked me what horsepower and tourque I was looking for... told him I would look into it but was thinking mid 300's horsepower and mid 400's tourque (or better).
3) What do you guys think on those specs. If it's a 340 horsepower engine it will really be 310 at the wheels, right. So where is the good compromise. I want it to run great, sound great, and work hard when I need it. In part it will work on a farm a little so pulling and running right will matter.
4) They have a price for the engine build and a price to include the breakin. The breakin includes a dyno test. That is why if they say 350 I would need to subtract I think 30 or 40 horsepower for a number at the wheels.
5) like Jeff said somehow Mike is at 10:1 compression. But from what I have read 9:1 works better for our trucks.
6) Better Rockers Arms than stock.
7) The engine oil galleries with the FE engine (where they need to be reinforced)
8) The water pump taping to prevent oil and water mixing
(Hoping on those last 3 they already know but those tips will help)
I'm not an engine builder and need some help on what to tell them and ask them. That way I know it will be a solid engine for years.
I think the break in and Dyno time is a great idea. Especially if this includes dialing in the correct carb jets to the new engine combo setting the timing to the sweet spot, and curving the Dizzy to it's sweet spot. Seat of the pants can't compete with the Dyno.
Now on the build, I would tell them your list above. And ask them to come up with 2 or 3 scenarios. If only one, they will prolly come up with the one that they make the most money on the parts. You don't care about their profit. Just a great bolt in motor.
Enjoying your thread. Not wanting to highjack but I'm just a little behind you on my D60 and I noticed the flange bolts (mine are actually studs) have peeled some threads. What and where are the replacements. Sounds like some change over to grade 8 bolts.
Enjoying your thread. Not wanting to highjack but I'm just a little behind you on my D60 and I noticed the flange bolts (mine are actually studs) have peeled some threads. What and where are the replacements. Sounds like some change over to grade 8 bolts.
Take a pic and post so I will know what you are talking about. Be glad to help but need to understand your question better.
My axles were held in with 7/16 studs and the exposed ends were pretty beat up. Plus the threads were coming off. I think I can just use 7/16 grade bolts about 1 1/4 long and eliminate the exposed threads. Doesn't matter bolts or studs as long as I use the tapered spacer.
Right?
My axles were held in with 7/16 studs and the exposed ends were pretty beat up. Plus the threads were coming off. I think I can just use 7/16 grade bolts about 1 1/4 long and eliminate the exposed threads. Doesn't matter bolts or studs as long as I use the tapered spacer.
Right?
Nice job on cleaning the parts. Pride in your work! I'm not an expert but my approach includes going with as good as OE or better. Also call they guys at King4x4. They are experts and they are one of the best I have found. Someone on this sight gave me there info and wow they are good.
Keep up the good work amigo, all of us with the D-60 & 70 rear ends, have been there, done that, and got the T-shirt dirty. Get it clean, keep it clean, and proceed at the Speed of Right.. No need to hurry, you have the rest of your life, and no point in hurrying to the end now..
Especially if this includes dialing in the correct carb jets to the new engine combo setting the timing to the sweet spot, and curving the Dizzy to it's sweet spot. Seat of the pants can't compete with the Dyno.
