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Guys, on the transfer case and manual transmission... I need to flush out the old oil and put new oil in. Going to do research now. But I looking for ideas on what to use to give a good bath on those internal gears and flush and fresh oil in.
Transfer case fluid is chocolate shake looking, so I have some H20 in the case.
Transmission fluid is black but full.
I'll see what I can find. Puting my hit list together for tomorrow.
Based on the age of our trucks, I would suggest dropping the T-Case and cleaning it out on the floor or bench. I would bet you need to replace the mounts on the T-Case anyways. I got mine on Amazon, they are poly bushings.
I agree completely, take the whole step, not a half step.. You will be way more confident in the results, if you drop the tc, open it, and actually see what you have... then proceed from there. The complete gasket kit, and even the bearing kit, is not that expensive, and well worth the small investment. Go for it amigo..
I'm back from vacation. How did the rad hoses work out?
I have the NAPA hoses. The engine is sitting in the truck and bell housing is attached. That is as far as I could make it. I'm going to have a few days where I have no time to work on the truck. I need to put everything on the engine. Headers, Alt, PS, starter, fan, carb, belts, rad, hoses, and the list goes on...
My goal is to put a sniper EFI on it but for now I'm going to rebuild the Holley 4bl. He had a new carb installed in the late 80's.
Based on the age of our trucks, I would suggest dropping the T-Case and cleaning it out on the floor or bench. I would bet you need to replace the mounts on the T-Case anyways. I got mine on Amazon, they are poly bushings.
Solid tip! Thxs... Yes - The mounts need to be replaced. LMC has a T-case kit with the upper and lower bushings / rubber. 34.95. I'll do a search on Amazon and see what I can find as well.
Solid tip! Thxs... Yes - The mounts need to be replaced. LMC has a T-case kit with the upper and lower bushings / rubber. 34.95. I'll do a search on Amazon and see what I can find as well.
The gasket kit for the T-case... call King 4x4?
Try that same local Napa 1st. Me personally, I like to support my local small business' when I can.
On the fuel pump... What is the best option for our trucks? Airtex 6523? Or? I read some good and some bad on the fuel pump options. How can I tell if the old one is good? It looks fine but even if it was new 12 years ago it would have sat a lot.
I have the engine in the bay. And slowly putting it all back together.
On the engine rebuild... which is better ZDDPplus or ZDDP Maxx? Looks like those are the 2 that pop up the most on amazon and what I have read so far.
Does anyone know of good oil for our 390 FE engines? I read that we can use whatever oil but it needs the ZDDP added because of the cam etc. The engine is newly "rebuilt" and maybe I'll be ready to fire it up some time soon.
I'm taking the Holley 4160 apart and rebuilding it this week as well.
T-stat... any toughts on 160 vs 180 vs 195 thermostat? I was thinking 180 but then couple of threads talked about 160. lots of talk about the 180 and some talk about the 195. What do our truck engines like? A reminder... I have a Fresh rebuild on the 390 and hope to have it fired up for the first time soon. Has a RV mild cam. Its a solid stock 390 with some things done to hit high 400 torque and should be high 300 HP. Guy who did most of the build said it would be 500 torque and 400 HP.
T-stat... any toughts on 160 vs 180 vs 195 thermostat? I was thinking 180 but then couple of threads talked about 160. lots of talk about the 180 and some talk about the 195. What do our truck engines like? A reminder... I have a Fresh rebuild on the 390 and hope to have it fired up for the first time soon. Has a RV mild cam. Its a solid stock 390 with some things done to hit high 400 torque and should be high 300 HP. Guy who did most of the build said it would be 500 torque and 400 HP.
Thoughts are appreciated -
My $.02 is 180. A warmer cylinders and head surfaces will generate a little more power. To an extent. Not too hot. A 160 would just open too soon IMHO. 192/195 is too high for the older technology FE block and heads compared to the SMF and BBF. Since it's been rebuilt I am assuming the block was vated. So the cooling passages should be fresh and clean. Make sure your radiator is as well. And a good Mark VIII assembly or fan and shroud. If the stat you buy doesn't have a steam hole with a check ball in it, drill an 1/8" hole in it.
Now remember upon start up you can't shut the engine off for 30 minutes to break in the cam. Run it at +/- 2000 RPM. varying the RPM every once in a while. Because of this check EVERYTHING. From P/S hose connections to carb nuts. Completely fill cooling system. Leave the upper hose off the radiator. Fill the radiator until you see Coolant coming up the upper hose. Remember air trapped in the block will escape slowly through that 1/8" hole. So slowly keep a fillin'. Once started also keep an eye on the temp gauge just in case.
All good advice from Jeff, and as far as fuel pumps, almost 40 years ago, I went with a Bendix electric pump, and have had to clean the filter several times, but the pump still pumps just fine. They are used on Cessna's, as you cannot stop for repairs while flying... well, duh? Porsche also uses them as do a number of high end applications. I found one recently, figuring that mine would die some day, and bought it off evilbay.. They are all over the board on prices, but I bought a used one for $46... a bargain in my book... These pumps are so good, I think they quit making them... never sold anybody but me 2 of them..
The header on drivers side is in... look at how it touches the oil pan. Jim said the oil was burnt (from PO) and I would think the header that close... was heating up / burning the oil if they let in run in place. I will try to put heat shield or wrap on it to prtect the oil.