DC has become just like the big box stores in every city, they sell you any part that might work to make a sale. Or figure some way to use it. But we buy with the idea of trying keep it stock to oem the best we can.
Orich

 

Parts I have been cleaning / prep for putting front axle (right side) back together.

 

I used some short pieces thin wall of 1/2" hose slipped over the hub studs threads when painting to keep the paint off to keep them clean.
works for.
Orich

 

I went with flat black for some parts and gloss for others. It should make a cool contrast. Or lets say I think it will be cool. I know somethings are taking me some time but I should have knuckle on soon.

On that note... I will grease the felt seal and follow instructions in book. Tips are appreciated.

In manual 15-32-1 Front Driving Axle 446CF Dana... Why does it say the preload should be between 60 and 120 in-lbs? That seems like a wide range.

 

Doing research... ...steering knuckle bearings (upper and lower), some info says to pack the bearings with bearing grease and add the 90wt or 140wt oil. Diff info says to add the 90wt oil but nothing about the bearings being packed first.

I would think packing the bearings would be a yes, but if I do will that stop the 90wt or 140wt oil from getting into the upper bearing?

I'm sure some where is the correct process. Thanks for sounding off on the topic - :-)

Finding video's not specific to Ford trucks but to closed knuckles and all (so far) say to pack the bearings. Also the above clip covers the preload process. Now I will still search more to make sure his preload application and my truck are same.

 

Great write up and info. Thanks!

 

Some owners put the grease in the bearings to give them some protection because the oil doesn't get to the entire bearing surface while it's sitting still. I don't think it can hurt to grease them first.

 

I just used some 90wt since my truck won't be sitting as it will be driven after getting it put back together, not put into storage for months. As the 90wt was good enough for ford over long term use anyway.

And even 90wt should be thick enough to not all run out in cold country. sitting for a while.

And me living in the desert at that time with summer daily temps up into the 112-117 mark+ I soon went with a mix of 50/50 mix of STP & 90wt. gear oil that stayed longer in my knuckles joints even with new seals. But as long as you engage the free spinning hubs every 1000 miles or 3 months which is what ford has listed to keep them yrs to come in good long service order.

This was even while having the added weight of 2000lbs of the c/o camper on the back.

I followed the Ford the instructions ever since 1978 until a few yrs back when, I went to disc brake axle.

But, I can understand if packing to much of the wrong type of heavy grease and living in a cold part of the country is very possible to cake up from getting any lubrication thrown up into the upper bearings.

About 6+yrs ago when, went through my old front D44 closed knuckle axle, I inspected everything and found no sloppy play into the knuckle ball joints upper & lower bearing and was no need to replace any of the bearings.. I did remove a 00.2 shim though:

The ring & pinon+ carrier was the other things that did not need replacing, had to replace everything else though but no new axles to be found..
This was another reason, I went with disc brake axle.

So you can pack or not to pack after reading what, I posted is my 0.2
Orich

 

Thanks orich!!! Now that's clean... I did pack the bearings after a good deal or research.



Watching the game now but will take out one more shim and should have perfect preload specs. Once I have it down will post a details with steps.

 

Were you able to get the inner seals in yet//

Orich

 

I have not done the inner seals yet. Do those have to be done at the same time? Or can one side at a time? Garage is small so I can only work on one side at a time, but I do have heat in the garage so that is huge. I almost forgot about them so thinking about skipping the inner seals but I do have parts.

Thoughts?

 

Well both axles have to be pulled to remove the ring & pinon or at least the ring gear carrier has too be removed. One thing you could do is wait unlit spring or warmer weather where you can do it out side where you have room on both sides of the vehicle.

If you have not found any gear lube in the axle tube housing then you could wait.
Even if you have drained the differential or not you don't need you refill it as your not going to be driving it in 4wd right.

You could even leave the one axle out as long as you keep the opening closed off to keep any dust out. As the wheel only needs the spindle on to attach the hub onto so you could just move the truck around in your yard so you can work on the other side of the truck.

The whole ring & pinon will need to be removed to service the inner seals.
The seals may look good but the point is now how old they are an how long will they last after using the 4wd.

So like, I had said it could be left for another time but it's a nice to finish the front axle off now instead of having to pull it apart later, but it will be easier next time as you won't have to remove the ball ends just the spindles an pull axles out along with the ring & pinon all having to be removed.

The yoke an pinon should be marked so it can all be tighten back up to the same TQ-Lbs. position on the yoke nut.

Also a good time to replace yoke pinon seal an any internal bearings if pitted from moisture getting to them like it did mind.
Orich

 

Why do you think the DC body mounts are wrong? Ford shows the 64/66 mounts being the same as 67/72 Bump 4X4's.

 

When I called DC to double check on the absorbers they said all the cab absorbers were wrong and would not fit. I asked if he was sure and he said yes.

One reason for calling was the rubber was not even close to what is on truck. So I knew I either had the wrong absorbers on the truck or DC sent the wrong NOS absorbers.

 

Looking them up in DC's catalog I see they are listed for 4X2 only. The front mounts are the same but the rear mounts are different between 4X2 and 4X4.
***Hey Bill, can you please post Body Illustration section 000, page 13. This will show the OP that the rear mounts are the same 64/66 and 67/72 4X4.