Good to hear the bed fits, and that you got it bolted down. Did you check the front wheel cylinders?
This was the only one working on my front brakes!

Rusted solid.

 

If you can, buy a set of speed bleeders (take one of your old bleeder screws with you), They will save you from going crazy.

 

All the advice above is right on the money. Go is good, Stop is mandatory. If you replace it all, you know what you have, when it was put in, and the life expectancy. Otherwise, something will fail, and often at the most inopportune time. Parts, oil & grease are cheaper than body repair. I would pull all the wheels, and drums, inspect the brake shoes & parts, replacing what you can afford. I'd also replace all the steel and rubber lines, and then you KNOW that you can stop when you need to.
2nd. Trust all the advice you get on this site, everyone is 'over the top' helpful and some are exceptionally knowledgeable. A lot of the 'Bump Forum' members are not just parts replacers, they are creators and inventors of things the factory engineers never even thought of.
I got my truck, almost new, from an old WWII vet, who went blind. I can relate to your truck's history, and your efforts in restoration. Yours has a special meaning to you, and I salute you, as I salute your Grandfather's truck. Keep the photos coming.

Baja

 

I'll jump on the replace all steel and rubber lines also. And 2X Gary on the wheel cylinders. Brakes are not only your life, but maybe someone else's also. 2X rust on the inside of the metal lines. You see, brake fluid is extremely "thirsty" for moisture in the air. Like every time the M/C cap is removed. Brake fluid grabs the moisture out of the air a LOT faster than most people think. Then there is moisture on the inside of the bare metal brake lines. We all know what moisture + bare steel equals. Brake fluid should be changed every couple of years with brand new and unopened bottles of fresh brake fluid because of this. Especially with the ol' cast iron M/C brake systems. And even with the newer aluminum M/C's also if the cap has been removed a lot.

 

Looking at new carbs... they claim better MPG etc and power. ??? Buying a new one will cost me a little more than a rebuild on the Holley carb which is 44 years old. Looking for ideas on which way to go... thxs

 

On the drums...where can I find instructions on tear down? Apprecite the comments!

 

NAPA has the rubber lines and I can buy the steel line and make them myself. But I would rather buy OEM steel lines if ava. ???

 

If you'll be out doing some 4wd~ing Truck Avenger is a pretty good setup.
Good for up & down steep hills type of carb.
A little pricey tho.

If your looking for better gas mileage and want a 4barrle carb then look for a ford autolite carb 4100. I notice that, I got worse gas mileages right a way after putting on a Holley 600cfm carb. I' had even had it jeted down pretty lean. It was ok as long as I stayed close out of dry climates or would ping and drop engine idling so went back to #62 jets with stock cam that is.

I ran #57 jets in the ford 4100 carb with no problems.

And the Holley would run to lean on #57.

Now, I'm going to a efi Holley stealth Terminator setup as soon as all the parts come in. So I see how this setup works out.
This is about the last thing, I can do to my truck other then getting it painted,
as, I done as many of upgrades that, I could do.



Orich

 

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Thanks KsHighboy! I have the front lines on way from NAPA but guy could not find the rear rubber line. Do you know the part number for the rear rubber line

In case I need to replace wheel cylinders, does anyone have tips or manaul on the Highboy?

 

F250, I will try and get the part number.

 

Thought this thought about the life of a motor, applies to us all;

 

Thanks GaryKip, are the wheel cylinder not to hard to change? Do I need any special tools or instructions? Thanks again - Shawn

 

A Boy and his Jeep » Dana 60/70 Rear Drums

Found that link on a diff thread which will help when I do back drums / cylinders etc. I'm looking for a link that will show how to deal with the front drums / cylinders on my Highboy. Sure it is here somewhere...

 

They are super easy to change on the front wheels for sure. While you don't HAVE to use any special tools, I would suggest using a line wrench (AKA tubing wrench) on the brake line (where it connects to the wheel cylinder). Keep in mind that there is a Driver's side and a Passenger side wheel cylinder. At least on my 69 there is.