1972 Highboy Build Progress
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Joined: Mar 2016
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From: Barre Mass
Not getting the engine up to temp. will cause this to happen.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Also a bad PCV valve cover donut seal will let to mush air and not pulling out enough of the moisture, this leaves the oil filler cap/tube milky looking.
A new tight fitting PCV seal will correct this problem.
Cold parts of the country need 195*thermostats or block off a 1/3 of the radiator so it will run a little warmer.
Orich
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Also a bad PCV valve cover donut seal will let to mush air and not pulling out enough of the moisture, this leaves the oil filler cap/tube milky looking.
A new tight fitting PCV seal will correct this problem.
Cold parts of the country need 195*thermostats or block off a 1/3 of the radiator so it will run a little warmer.
Orich
A new tight fitting PCV seal will correct this problem.
Cold parts of the country need 195*thermostats or block off a 1/3 of the radiator so it will run a little warmer.
Orich
The rocker rail is cleaning up well and needed it. I will post pics of b4 and after when done.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
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From: Phoenix, Az.
Rich, I think you are on the right trail. So the front of rocker rail is the worst but the closer to # 4 and # 8... the rust goes away. So it does seem like someting was getting in from the PCV valve. And the hose was missing from the PCV as well.
The rocker rail is cleaning up well and needed it. I will post pics of b4 and after when done.
The rocker rail is cleaning up well and needed it. I will post pics of b4 and after when done.
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Lifters are out. 2 are very bad and others are not so good. I can see the cam and it has bad spots as well. So I have to decide if I can just replace the cam and lifters or if I need to pull the engine and do a rebuild.
Here's where some help would be appreciated.
Because of cam and lifters looking like they do, does that mean the crank could be bad?
Here's where some help would be appreciated.
Because of cam and lifters looking like they do, does that mean the crank could be bad?
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Lifters are out. 2 are very bad and others are not so good. I can see the cam and it has bad spots as well. So I have to decide if I can just replace the cam and lifters or if I need to pull the engine and do a rebuild.
Here's where some help would be appreciated.
Because of cam and lifters looking like they do, does that mean the crank could be bad?
Here's where some help would be appreciated.
Because of cam and lifters looking like they do, does that mean the crank could be bad?
The crank maybe get by with polishing up some to get by. But you'll have to do a visual inspection first. But since this truck will be with for many yrs to come, I'll pull the motor and rebuilt it. May be you can get by with just freshening everything up. Polish the crank, hone the cyl.for new rings,
New oil, new cam & timing chain. Valve job should just about cover it if all good.
Orich
Ps that engine should of had some noisy rockers clicking.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Aw someone's been in their before and forgot that sheet metal shield Ha I did the same thing once. I pulled the engine down to do the harden seats 30k later no build up on the under side of intake. So no big deal if your intake bottom is clean of carbon build up.
Orich
Orich
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Engine Stands? 1000lb or 1250lb? Some on ebay from JEGS that look good. The FE 360 weighs about 700lb right?
Do you guys have any tips on a good engine stand? What to avoid... what to look for... brands...
Do you guys have any tips on a good engine stand? What to avoid... what to look for... brands...
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Orich
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Baffle Plate part number and where to find?
