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1972 Highboy Build Progress

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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 10:01 AM
  #451  
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Cylinders and pistons look great, what's all that sludge on the oil pick from?
 
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 10:17 AM
  #452  
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Baja, fe390, and pchelp.... the PO had an reman napa short block put in about 12 years ago and it was then parked for the last 10 or 12 years. PO said it had less than 500 miles on the new engine. But Jim said it looks like the cam was never broken in and caused at least part of the failure.

I'm not sure what all the goo is... will 10 year old oil turn bad? Jim also said there are other signs of things gone wrong with the engine, so no doubt it will be a much happier engine when it's done.

Also, I did have oil in the coolant but No coolant in the oil. Yes, will bake the block and magnaflux it.

Chime in with any tips... I would like to go it right and have it good for years to come.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 11:30 AM
  #453  
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Originally Posted by fe390pc
Well I would say you are in good shape. I noticed the ribs on the outside of the block and read that indicates a replacement service block. They are usually of a better quality. The 2U would indicate that you have a 390 crank.
I concur. 2U is a 390 crank.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 09:23 PM
  #454  
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390 Build... Holley Sniper EFI What do you guys think?
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...parts/550-516K

Does anyone have thoughts on the Sniper?

Duraspark 2 distriputor? Or MSD PRO-BILLET 8594?

Ignition box?

,,,,,,,,,
Doing some recon on right set combo between the Sniper, distribitor, and ignition box.


http://www.jegs.com/i/Pertronix/751/D7133800/10002/-1
Pertronix D7133800
Ignitor III Distributor Ford FE 352, 360, 390, 427 & 428

Keep in mind, that the vac adv goes away with the Sniper EFI. Mechanical Advance Distributor No-Vac


Appreciate thoughts...
 

Last edited by F2501972; Jun 13, 2017 at 10:16 PM. Reason: 390 Distributor options ... added 1
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 10:32 PM
  #455  
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 11:16 PM
  #456  
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RSB - Replacement Service Block?

Originally Posted by fe390pc
Well I would say you are in good shape. I noticed the ribs on the outside of the block and read that indicates a replacement service block. They are usually of a better quality. The 2U would indicate that you have a 390 crank.


A couple of things to remember here. The oil pump pick-up is unique to F250 4x4s as ell as the oil pan. Rear sump is hard to come by so keep a close eye on those pieces.


All in all you are making very good progress. If you have a machine shop rebuild your heads, do the hardened exhaust seat upgrade so they will live a long life with todays unleaded fuel.
fe390, thxs again! Hook me up with info on the Replacement Service Block... I would like to read up on it. I posted some pics from today and you can see the block ribs even better. Brad the guy who bought the truck from my grandfather put F350 badges on the truck. Then the truck was sold to a farm then to another farm which is the guy I bought it from. So when the short block was dropped in they may have thought it was a F350 resulting in a stronger block...??? PO said it was a Napa short block.

Woundering about it and very interested in learning more... adds to the story to hand down.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 11:41 PM
  #457  
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??
 
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Old Jun 14, 2017 | 11:21 AM
  #458  
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Originally Posted by F2501972


??
This is the Rebuilder's serial number tag for identification. If there were any warranty issues they could tell it was their rebuild. And their files would tell them info on the build.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2017 | 10:32 PM
  #459  
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Old Jun 19, 2017 | 10:40 PM
  #460  
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Originally Posted by pchelp
Cylinders and pistons look great, what's all that sludge on the oil pick from?
We are not sure what caused all the goo in the oil pan. Jim said there were a couple of things that went wrong when the PO put in the short block. We have the block at the shop checking it out. Going to order parts for the engine build this week.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2017 | 10:59 PM
  #461  
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Going to have the headers sandblasted then put some fresh high-temp paint on...



Cleaning the engine bay this weekend. Powerwasher etc. Por15 on the frame???



Tips? Do you guys think I should powerwash and leave it alone or use a product on the frame?
 
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Old Jun 20, 2017 | 12:01 PM
  #462  
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From: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
Due to my area's conditions, ie close to the beach, and salt air all the time, I pressure washed the entire frame, (with the cab off), with 3400 psi, then, used phosphoric acid, brushed & sprayed over the entire thing, then coated it with linear epoxy marine bilge paint/primer, then undercoated it with spray on bed liner, with some areas brushed... and have no rust so far, in the first 5 years.. Make no mistake, whatever you do, rust is difficult, if not impossible, to prevent, in one try. It will not be denied for ever.

Do what is appropriate for your area, and keep after it.

Baja
 
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Old Jun 20, 2017 | 06:27 PM
  #463  
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I would pressure wash and paint everything you can.

Here is some more info I found on Fordification.
 

Last edited by fe390pc; Jun 20, 2017 at 06:28 PM. Reason: Info ran together making unreadable
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Old Jun 20, 2017 | 06:28 PM
  #464  
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Well that didn't work here is the link.

Ford FE Engine Block Casting Numbers - FORDification.com
 
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Old Jun 21, 2017 | 06:43 PM
  #465  
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You live in the rust belt. I would clean and coat it.
 
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