1972 Highboy Build Progress
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Elder User
Joined: May 2014
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I do not understand step 21 and 22.
I have the engine ready to pull and having a problem getting it to come the rest of way out. The trans does not want to let go. Which is why maybe step 21 is the answer. Need help to pull engine,,, SSOOOO CLOSE... What am I doing wrong? Thxs
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Everything on the engine is ready to pull and when I tried it will not slip free from the trans. If step 21 is the problem then I need help becuse I do not understand what they are talking about... I did lift the engine about an inch and it has about 3/8 gap from bell housing showing. I only removed 2 nuts from the engine mounts. 1 on each side. So I do have to lift the engine about 2 inches before i can try to move it forward. So maybe I just need to try harder. However I want to make sure I have correctly completed step 21 and 22 before I go all military commando on the shaking it free.
Thanks for your solution here!
Thanks for your solution here!
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,694
Likes: 45
From: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
Did you remove ALL the bolts between the bell housing, and the engine block? Usually, there are 2 bolts at the top of the bell housing, and to access them you have to remove the shift stick, and then the center cab floor covering, over the transmission. With all the bell housing bolts removed, the engine should move forward and come up out of the engine compartment. Have you also removed the radiator, and I always remove the fan too
On occasion, I have pulled the engine and trans in one piece, and to do that, you have to disconnect the drive line, and sometimes, remove the tranny support cross member...
It will come, when all the bolts are removed...
Baja
On occasion, I have pulled the engine and trans in one piece, and to do that, you have to disconnect the drive line, and sometimes, remove the tranny support cross member...
It will come, when all the bolts are removed...
Baja
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Did you remove ALL the bolts between the bell housing, and the engine block? Usually, there are 2 bolts at the top of the bell housing, and to access them you have to remove the shift stick, and then the center cab floor covering, over the transmission. With all the bell housing bolts removed, the engine should move forward and come up out of the engine compartment. Have you also removed the radiator, and I always remove the fan too
On occasion, I have pulled the engine and trans in one piece, and to do that, you have to disconnect the drive line, and sometimes, remove the tranny support cross member...
It will come, when all the bolts are removed...
Baja
On occasion, I have pulled the engine and trans in one piece, and to do that, you have to disconnect the drive line, and sometimes, remove the tranny support cross member...
It will come, when all the bolts are removed...
Baja
Thxs
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,694
Likes: 45
From: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
Not unless they go through the bell housing and into the block, which I do not think that they do... With the radiator and fan out, the engine should come forward enough to clear the pilot shaft on the tranny.... you do have a 4 speed right? My 1972 has the New Process 435 4 speed, but Ford may have also used the BW T18 in some applications?? Not sure about that one though.
If all the bell housing bolts are out of the block, then it should be free.. you can try wiggling the engine side to side lifting a small amount. I have had to use a thin spatula on occasion, to get the separation started... and then a long flat blade screwdriver... or pry bar... you will probably have better access from underneath, for the prying...
Baja
If all the bell housing bolts are out of the block, then it should be free.. you can try wiggling the engine side to side lifting a small amount. I have had to use a thin spatula on occasion, to get the separation started... and then a long flat blade screwdriver... or pry bar... you will probably have better access from underneath, for the prying...
Baja
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,694
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From: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
2x on the engine removal, and I see that the lifting plate, using the carb bolts, works just fine... as I recall, they are fine thread, 5/16", so with a good nut, they work just fine.. and obviously have done the job...
Now, for the rebuild..
Baja
Now, for the rebuild..
Baja
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Look at the pics I'm getting ready to post and chime in... Tell me if the first pic means it has the 390 crankshaft.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,694
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From: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
That rod journal looks mighty clean amigo, and so do the piston tops. I will leave the ID for 'El Rey' to look up, or Number Dummy, both of whom are the experts on everything Ford. I am more of a 300 IL 6 man, but have worked on several V-8's in my time.. Back in the day, I rebuilt an old 292 in a '56 pickup, and my first car, a '49 Olds, had a 303 V-8, and was one of GM's first OHV engines.
You already probably know, that V-8's are higher rpm, and hp. and develop their torque at higher RPM's than the 6's. Your 390 will be a strong motor when you are done... what's next? the machine shop, for some accurate micrometer work, a good boil out (ugh to the sludge), and some head work... good luck on all that.. I will say a prayer for no cracked heads...
Baja
You already probably know, that V-8's are higher rpm, and hp. and develop their torque at higher RPM's than the 6's. Your 390 will be a strong motor when you are done... what's next? the machine shop, for some accurate micrometer work, a good boil out (ugh to the sludge), and some head work... good luck on all that.. I will say a prayer for no cracked heads...
Baja
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Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Minnesota
Well I would say you are in good shape. I noticed the ribs on the outside of the block and read that indicates a replacement service block. They are usually of a better quality. The 2U would indicate that you have a 390 crank.
A couple of things to remember here. The oil pump pick-up is unique to F250 4x4s as ell as the oil pan. Rear sump is hard to come by so keep a close eye on those pieces.
All in all you are making very good progress. If you have a machine shop rebuild your heads, do the hardened exhaust seat upgrade so they will live a long life with todays unleaded fuel.
A couple of things to remember here. The oil pump pick-up is unique to F250 4x4s as ell as the oil pan. Rear sump is hard to come by so keep a close eye on those pieces.
All in all you are making very good progress. If you have a machine shop rebuild your heads, do the hardened exhaust seat upgrade so they will live a long life with todays unleaded fuel.