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Their is a cross lock pin bolt that has to removed the get the spiders gears out.
But if it don't have a press to remove & install those bearing then you'll the take it to
shop for that to be done. It just may be easier to let a shop do the internal work.
I think the best thing to do would be to pull the engine and tear it down. Look at everything and see what you have. The cam and lifters got wiped out due to the wrong break in oil being used. If the heads are rebuilt correctly and hardened seats have been installed, getting a good short block may be a less expensive alternative to a complete engine.
The other option is to buy another 390 and rebuild that using whatever parts are reusable from your engine.
I have an FE block that has a crack down the lifter galley. I found this while clean it prior to a rebuild (thank goodness).
Just some options.
If some one put in a RV cam then possibly the wrong break in oil.
But if it still has the ford oem cam from 1972 if would not be a failure from wrong break-in oil, but some other reason.
Rebuild the engine from the ground up, and you will know what you have. Keep track, like a log book, for future reference. My mistake when 4 years ago, I did my 300 IL 6, and now I am having to play catch up on parts numbers for reference in the future... when needed...
BTW.. 34" of snow here now, and its coming down heavy... This is some Blizzard for a Baja beach boy... It has set and broken all records so far... visibility down to 1/4 mile right now... Global warming...?? Really?
There will prolly be some numbers stamped in to the back side of the cam. What are they? these will tell us RV cam or Ford.
Engine is Not out yet. I will have it out in a couple of weeks. So will grab the number off cam when it's out.
Doing some Recon on the 360 to 390 build. Going to build it back as a 390. I'm looking for links and tips on building the 390. Have found some good info.
Some guys say to put a better intake manifold on. A 4V intake 428CJ PI or a Blue Thunder intake. Some guys really like the Blue Thunder intake.
Some say to use a 428 crank and the rest of parts 390 which will bump it to a 410.
The heads are D2TEAA / 1972 truck heads. Some say those are good heads and others say to put new ones on.
End of the day I'm looking for a solid FE engine with great low end torque and respectable horsepower.
C9ZE 9425B 9C27 / Info I found says it's a 1969 GT390 Manifold. NOT the S code. Regular GT390? Once I decide on the crank, intake manifold, and heads then the other parts follows those main parts, right? What am I missing?
Those heads D2s are good as they have hardened valve seats for unleaded fuel.
fe390, Thxs! Book ordered and should be here by Friday. On the heads, I did read some more where people were saying those heads were good. On the top end it sounds like it comes down to carb, ignition, intake manifold, headers (truck has headers already).
Of course the short block has to be in place to build on.
Their is a cross lock pin bolt that has to removed the get the spiders gears out.
But if it don't have a press to remove & install those bearing then you'll the take it to
shop for that to be done. It just may be easier to let a shop do the internal work.
I think the parts you have are good enough for your low end grunt required truck. IMHO, the high horsepower heads and intake may give you a few extra ponies down low in the RPM scale, where your truck is likely to live, but not enough compared to the money spent. C9ZE translates to 1969 Mustang. Which was rated at 320 bhp (239 kW; 324 PS) @ 4,600 / 427 lb·ft (579 N·m) @ 3,200. But with 10.5:1 compression which you don't want with today's fuel. But building a 9:1 or 9.5:1 390 to get these numbers wouid be easy. Let alone using a 428 crank to make it a 410. Don't forget, 428's (and their factory cranks) were "externally" balanced.
I think the parts you have are good enough for your low end grunt required truck. IMHO, the high horsepower heads and intake may give you a few extra ponies down low in the RPM scale, where your truck is likely to live, but not enough compared to the money spent. C9ZE translates to 1969 Mustang. Which was rated at 320 bhp (239 kW; 324 PS) @ 4,600 / 427 lb·ft (579 N·m) @ 3,200. But with 10.5:1 compression which you don't want with today's fuel. But building a 9:1 or 9.5:1 390 to get these numbers wouid be easy. Let alone using a 428 crank to make it a 410. Don't forget, 428's (and their factory cranks) were "externally" balanced.
Jeff, thxs... I agree. The more I read and watch youtube clips, it seems like building a solid 390 is the way to go for the workhorse. RV cam or maybe a mild step or two up.
I'm still doing my research but I wonder if someone makes a complete rebuild kit for the 390 truck. Otherwise I need to put a list together. The crank, cam, springs, lifters, etc all need to work together. Also read that the pistons need to be 4v and I know the truck 390 was a 2v.
It will be a couple of weeks before I pull the engine. I want to see how the bottom end looks and what's in there for cam, crank, pistons, etc.
Jeff, thxs... I agree. The more I read and watch youtube clips, it seems like building a solid 390 is the way to go for the workhorse. RV cam or maybe a mild step or two up.
I'm still doing my research but I wonder if someone makes a complete rebuild kit for the 390 truck. Otherwise I need to put a list together. The crank, cam, springs, lifters, etc all need to work together. Also read that the pistons need to be 4v and I know the truck 390 was a 2v.
It will be a couple of weeks before I pull the engine. I want to see how the bottom end looks and what's in there for cam, crank, pistons, etc.
An RV cam is the farthest I personally would go. Remember, the farther steps you go sends you farther away from off idle and lower midrange power. I suggest contacting the tech people of which ever cam company you are a fan of. Nobody knows their cams better than they do. And how an engine will react to them. I Know MIKES 68 F100 is happy with his combo with a Lunati cam. I dunno how he gets away with 10:1 but if he doesn't chime in here you might PM him. Here is his sig:
390
10:1 C/R*Lunati 62001 cam kit
home ported heads/Flotech headers
Edelbrock performer intake /Holley 750
22 Gallon mustang gas tank Mod
Yukon Dura grip with 3.55 gears
Back working on the truck. Going to finish rear differential in next week or so. Cleaning axle tub etc so it will be 100%. Rear axle had more crud in the axle tube than front axle. Gears look fine but needs new shims in diff. The bearing had spun just a little and the diff came right out. It was not moving side to side but it did not have any pre-load. Also going to button up the closed knuckle left side rebuild and brakes this weekend. Once those are done will pull the engine to rebuild.
I have to find a diff case spreader tool and gauge so it's 100%.