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Details: According to the PO this engine was a NAPA short block in 04 or 05.
* At that time he had a buddy do the install
* The truck was parked and over the last 12 years a couple hundred miles
* There is oil in the coolant {but No coolant in the oil}
Once I pull the engine how can I tell if the block has a crack?
* Bottom line I might be better off buying another engine but this current block should only have a couple hunder miles on it.
www.sandjengines.com is another engine reman site, with a 7 year warr.
Could the oil in the coolant be from the auto tranny cooler in the bottom of the radiator? I had my spare rad repaired, and installed it because the original one had a crack in the bottom tank.
Does anyone know where I can find the baffle plate? part number? thxs
I'd say ebay is probably you best source for parts like this one.
Orich
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OK Here's one, I just found on ebay 12 bucks shipping http://r.ebay.com/9ARq1f
www.sandjengines.com is another engine reman site, with a 7 year warr.
Could the oil in the coolant be from the auto tranny cooler in the bottom of the radiator? I had my spare rad repaired, and installed it because the original one had a crack in the bottom tank.
Has anyone else bought a reman from these guys? Website looks good. I would end up dropping a 390 in with a RV cam. I spoke with a guy at S&J who said with the truck engine would have RV cam.
As far as, I remember you had to request a RV Cam but, I recommend choosing a cam for the way the vehicle will be used. Plus the way your vehicle is geared and how tall of tires size you'll always be running...
Orich
As far as, I remember you had to request a RV Cam but, I recommend choosing a cam for the way the vehicle will be used. Plus the way your vehicle is geared and how tall of tires size you'll always be running...
Orich
They have a 390 with 370 horsepower at the flywheel (I think he said).
They have other FE 390 engine options but based on what I was asking him (CME), guy said the 390 with 370 HP was a trun-key solution that would work best.
When he says "at the flywheel" does that mean it will be 300 or 330 horsepower at the wheels?
Rich, thanks for pointing out that I need to give whoever I go with tire size and gears. I also need to tell them it's a 7100 lbs truck and not a 4000 lbs car. I did say it was a truck but just saying. So, if it's a FE 390 pushing 300+ HP does it matter what heads the engine has? At that horsepower should low end torque be more than enough?
Yup a lost of HP when you get to the end at the rear wheels, your guest is about right.
Also think about the grade of gas you like buying and paying for at the pump when your not getting much over 10 mpg. And the weight of your truck you can't go very high on the compression ratio as you'll be buying the highest grade of pump gas.
And when gas was $5.60+- a gal. you pay $5.60+- to go 10 miles+- you don't really want to drive your truck very much. This the way of life on the west coast of Ca.
My last eng. build, I drop my compression into the 8.7 so that, I can now run regular grade gas if needed.
And to may up for the lower of compression, I added a 410-428 crankshaft that gives more stroke with a total of 416 cu in with a .030 over bore that made up nicely for any loose of power. I am running just a little bump up over stock RV comp cam p/n#33 206-3 that gives good high engine intake manifold vacuum and no rough idle.
As those fun teenage days of a choppy old skool engine cam day, I've out grown.
When, I had a c/o camper, I had a different engine an, I was running a low end Torque rv cam with a 600 to 3,800 power curve that was great for pulling hills in high gear.
I Loved that cam.
The biggest reason I'm backing away from doing the rebuild myself... when I found the truck (within a few days) I found oil in the coolant. And the more I ran the truck the more oil made it's way to coolant. That is the biggest reason for not doing the rebuild. Now there is a chance that was from the old engine but PO does not recall there ever being an issue with oil in the coolant. So my concern would be doing the rebuild and still having the issue.
I do not think there is a solution to ease my concern which is why the reman looks to be my better choice.
Oil in the coolant the head gasket inspection tells a lot about this.
As we know someone had the intake off an forgot to replace the lifter cover.
Its possible that someone did not tighten the head bolts and intake correctly
That caused the oil in the coolant.
An oh, I have never seen the lifter damaged as bad as yours.
This type of thing could happen from bent push rods or happen when someone was assembling the engine and had the rockers not in the right position an tighten them down.
This can also happen by not proper cam break in by not raising engine rpms high enough when first start up an letting the engine idle does not get the lifters to turn.
Raising the rpms up to 1500-2000 will get the lifter turning at first start up then everything is okay once there all spinning.
I think the best thing to do would be to pull the engine and tear it down. Look at everything and see what you have. The cam and lifters got wiped out due to the wrong break in oil being used. If the heads are rebuilt correctly and hardened seats have been installed, getting a good short block may be a less expensive alternative to a complete engine.
The other option is to buy another 390 and rebuild that using whatever parts are reusable from your engine.
I have an FE block that has a crack down the lifter galley. I found this while clean it prior to a rebuild (thank goodness).
I think the best thing to do would be to pull the engine and tear it down. Look at everything and see what you have. The cam and lifters got wiped out due to the wrong break in oil being used. If the heads are rebuilt correctly and hardened seats have been installed, getting a good short block may be a less expensive alternative to a complete engine.
The other option is to buy another 390 and rebuild that using whatever parts are reusable from your engine.
I have an FE block that has a crack down the lifter galley. I found this while clean it prior to a rebuild (thank goodness).
Just some options.
Thanks fe390, I'm going to finish brakes on drivers side and the rear axle then with those items off the check list I will pull th engine and see what I find.