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First up was new steering stabilizer because the 22 year old factory one was completely shot... a dual kit was almost as cheap as a replacement stabilizer. And with those 37s, it couldn't hurt.
Then I've been babying bad batteries for about 3 months now. Decided it was finally time to replace them. So swung by Walmart to snag some everstarts.
And finally after that finally got around to putting on a redneck "boost fooler". At 22-23psi of boost the computer freaks out and starts defueling. They sell a pre made one, but its $100. Old 1/4" regulator set to 20psi, and some hose slapped between turbo amd MAP and bam made my own.
Larry I like those steering stabilizers. I wondered before if adding them to my truck would help, not that I have big tires or do anything off-road-like with it, but when I hit a pothole it tends to want to wander.
I'm getting frustrated with burning in this rear quarter panel on my Mustang project. Even with the setting all the way down to 1, I have had trouble with burning holes. This particular one got bigger when I tried to weld it closed.
Welding sheet metal is definitely not one of my top skills. I'm not sure how to best solve that burned out hole. Maybe JB weld a small piece behind it, and try to weld it again.
John use a copper spoon behind where the hole is.
The weld will not stick to the copper and the hole will get filled in.
Also was all the paint (tan) removed from that side before welding and the protective layer (gray) on the other side also removed before welding?
If either was still there that would stop a good arc from starting and you may have turned up the power to over come that making the weld arc to hot then.
Why I ask about the tan & gray is it looks like it was removed when the welds were taken down not before the welding started.
Also using gas or no gas welding and IIRC the car is in the back garage, garage door open or closed?
Was it hot and you had a fan blowing on you when welding?
Dave ----
John use a copper spoon behind where the hole is.
The weld will not stick to the copper and the hole will get filled in.
Also was all the paint (tan) removed from that side before welding and the protective layer (gray) on the other side also removed before welding?
If either was still there that would stop a good arc from starting and you may have turned up the power to over come that making the weld arc to hot then.
Why I ask about the tan & gray is it looks like it was removed when the welds were taken down not before the welding started.
Also using gas or no gas welding and IIRC the car is in the back garage, garage door open or closed?
Was it hot and you had a fan blowing on you when welding?
Dave ----
I hit the edges with the wire wheel to provide a clean metal source all along the edges of both. But then after the first pass, then hitting it with the sanding disc it makes the clean area much larger. I haven't turned the heat up above 1 at all (this is flux core, not gas). No wind inside the shop.I'm gonna have to look for a copper spoon or something similar that I can put behind there. If it helps, I think this might have started as a place where I had drilled a hole for a screw to hold the panels together. But it's certainly not the only hole I had and I was able to weld up the others (so far).
Flux core could be the issue as the wire is thicker to fit the flux inside it.
Gas wire is thinner because no flux so the power can be turned down a little more and less blow through.
I would not use a wire wheel. Use the sanding disc first on the panels and see if that helps.
The panels have to be clean before welding and I think the wire wheel is leaving something behind.
Dave ----
Flux core could be the issue as the wire is thicker to fit the flux inside it.
Gas wire is thinner because no flux so the power can be turned down a little more and less blow through.
I would not use a wire wheel. Use the sanding disc first on the panels and see if that helps.
The panels have to be clean before welding and I think the wire wheel is leaving something behind.
Dave ----
get a gas setup. It's not much and a whole lot easier to weld thin with. Flux core is meant to penetrate deep, burns much hotter. Lookup a channel on youtube called fitzees fabrication. He has alot of tips. Ditto on the wire wheel. It'll be like a plowed field.
www.jegs.com I'm sort of looking at what they have. I'm used to gas welding and brazing so a TIG would come in handy for body work. I do have a MIG with gas set up for body work. Lucked out, woman divorced her husband and kept 1/2 his stuff. Paid $50 for it.
I think Dave hit it on the head when he was mentioning the metal not being clean, and me turning the heat up. I never changed my setting, but I do know that if I had trouble keeping the arc going (which would be the case if I didn't clean the backside), then I know I kept that arc going for a longer period of time and that is putting more heat into the same area. So instead of trying to keep an arc going to close in the hole, I just went "dot" move to the other side "dot" etc and kept going like that to fill up the hole.
I know I have always been told that gas will weld easier and give better results, but flux core is simple and simple is good for me. I just hope after this I never have to weld sheet metal again! lol
John is you welder set up for gas, regulator & hose, and would need to get wire & gas to make it a true MIG?
I have used CO2 as a gas and it was better than flux core but not as good as Argon mix.
I think the CO2 tank still has gas if you want to give it a try if you have the rest of the parts.
I dont think I have wire but you should be able to pick up a 1LB spool just to try it.
Dave ----
Hey All!
Still trying to find someone with an '80-'96 bed that I could cut up. A bed that was in an accident but the floor's still good. Dropped a tree on it and sides are crap but still a good floor? Hit me up. I got a patch panel from LMC but it doesn't even come close to matching the corrugation spacing.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
