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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Engine removal pics

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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 09:36 AM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
Just to show something could you slide the oil dipstick and tube back
in and show a photo of how far it sticks down into the pan? The reason
I was thinking this was the guy that has the broken dipstick. I just wanted to see how far under the windage tray it sticks. While your at it does the pan have an baffles?



Thanks
Sean
Sorry Sean. I overlooked the pan question. But I don't think it has baffles. I will post a pic in a bit. Trans n trans case is done!!!! Nice. Inland truck parts. They are the go to guys for a zf6. $218 for the reseal.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 09:38 AM
  #152  
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The engine shop seemed impressed about the miles. I think they might go online n check out this thread. If they do it, then all of us kc guys will have a local engine shop. That would be very cool.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 09:51 AM
  #153  
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I have to say, it has been a pleasure watching your progress.

That motor has worn well. Your maintenance must have been stellar.

Thanks for taking the time!

Sean
 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 09:52 AM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by m-chan68
Just to let you know, I have been very curiously keeping an eye on this thread, even if I haven't posted much. What I am noticing with great interest is you appear to have the late '06 version of this engine, which is the latest and most updated possible version. This means your cylinder heads from Ford will be part number 6C3Z-6049-AA should you need to replace them, not 3C3Z-6049-DA for 2003 to early '06 engines. This also means your engine uses 20mm cylinder head dowels on the block as well as the heads.

I am extremely curious to see if the replacement engine is in fact going to come with the correct rear engine cover installed on it that is unique to manual transmission applications.
I was adiment about the 20mm dowels, front n rear covers installed, oem gaskets, and a manual,,, oh crap, it better be right. I could use a pic if the automatic rear cover. I will inspect it on the truck before its unloaded. Send it back if its an auto. Btw. Are there any signs on the engine externally to know if I get 20, or 18 mm??
 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 10:37 AM
  #155  
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I don't have much advice to add. I am a learner here, but am enjoying watching the progress and will gladly add reps.

Larry
 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 12:02 PM
  #156  
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Road builders in Kansas City Kansas. Jamie or Scott. Just got off the phone with them, I think I found the perfect place to do the backup engine. They were honest about the crank seals. Maybe if enough of us use them, then they would buy the installers, but they checked and told me they could get the tools any time. Prob a borrow thing. I'm good with that. That should be a testament about our engines. If they suck so bad, and break so much, why does nobody (or nothave the tools to do the lower end. Um, maybe cause they don't break as much as people think.
I called a different shop, that guy said "oh crap, you got the worst engine ever built". I got in an argument with him. "If its the worst engine then why am I calling you with almost 600k? You think it's the worst engine cause you don't know anything about it, or because the people you see don't do proper maint". That place was called clay county engine builders near Kansas City. Heck with them.




Here's road builders. I know they aren't venders on here, but maybe they would be interested in it.


They also said they would take pics of their part of the process also. That's cool
 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 12:08 PM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by Schlominator
I don't have much advice to add. I am a learner here, but am enjoying watching the progress and will gladly add reps.

Larry
Glad you're here Larry. Feel free to chime in. Sometimes I lose my common sense, the more minds the merrier
 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 12:10 PM
  #158  
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Today, I'm wanting to get the engine bay cleaned and painted. I've got red, silver n black paint. The silver is 2000* high heat. I'm wondering if it would hold up on the exhaust manifolds
 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 01:00 PM
  #159  
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Question. I've been using engine oil to lube the injector orings for install. Obviously I've been in too much of a hurry to get them seated correctly. Two of mine that were in the old engine had messed up orings. Would grease hurt anything as long as it isn't too caked on???
 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 01:29 PM
  #160  
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Following along with your progress. Reps given.

Thanks for taking the time to document the process.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 01:42 PM
  #161  
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Try engine assembly lube. They make that stuff
in a pint can and it comes in very handy.
Here is one that I found with a quick Google
Slipkote Specialty Lubricants Automotive Engine Assembly Lubes
I used this search "diesel engine assembly lube"
Also make sure that he bore is clean and put a bit of the lube
at the top so it is also slick. Insert the injector in a straight
line so your not tipping it and pinching the O-ring. One other
thing is you can find one is an O-ring installation sleeve to
make it easer to slide it onto the injector and not pulled
out of shape. Warm and pre-lube the O-ring before you start. All of
this info is basic hydraulic assembly guides for high pressure
O-rings. The sleeve can be made from plastic with no sharp edges
and it just a tiny bit larger than the injector you slide the
lubed O-ring on it and place it on the injector and ease it
onto the injector. And your done.
Just take your time.


Sean
 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 02:30 PM
  #162  
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you could make some cool flames under the hood with red, silver and black paint
 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 11:22 PM
  #163  
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Not much today.

I saw this plate. It's rated for 1000 lbs. prob not as strong as the one I built. But it might work
 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 11:23 PM
  #164  
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Should I use sealant on the oil pans? If so which one

 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 11:24 PM
  #165  
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Midwest radiator got er done
 
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