If you have running + & - to each of the 7 cells then yes your amps would sky rocket! But if you are running neutral plates, meaning not all of the 7 cells have + & - wires connected it should drop the amperage. This is why milehigh's is 4 & 3 because one box w/ 7 cells has 4 of the cells connected & the other box only has 3 cells and the other 7 cells are neutral.

Do you have any pics of what you made....maybe we can help better if we can see what you are doing..........

 

Dont have a pic yet but its just like milehighs. his is split to 3cells and 4 cells mine works ok that way but i want to run 7 cells + on one end - on other with al neutral in middle. The amps are real low that way. Should I keep adding Lye to it? It will take a lot of lye to get the amps up for good HHO.

 

Remember litmus paper...for me that was 40 years ago! one tablespoon of red devil lye per gallon of distilled water put my ph to 11 , I can't imagine using any more than that. I'd be willing to bet you have electrical connection problems!!
I suspect these electrolizers to normally have to be run in awhile... conditioning or whatever else you might call it , cleaning the oily plate surfaces. I'll be back with several pics later on mine. I've got watering to do this AM and couple of errands. On top of all that the BUSHY is coming to RDG about 3 miles away as the crow flies to see our Ncal smoke . While he's here maybe I'll be able to be under the pc hood and put more here!

 

The second picture is of my 1-4-1-4-1 electrolizer, plates are 2"x7" approximately 12" tall obviously of ABS which supposedly handles about 50 degrees more temp than PVC.

The first picture is power being applied, about 7 amps is shown. The electrolizer is hooked: end to end or 1-9-1 center is not connected. I suspect 14 amps with +----_----+ . I'm using here about 1/2 gallon of 1 tablespoon Red Devil lye per gallon of distilled water. Temp increased from 80 degrees to 130 degrees in 2 hours of operation.

This is going into my 82' merc W123 300 nonturbo this weekend. I'm planing on using a starter solenoid with about 3 ft of #8 wire for power source.

 

DON'T use a starter solenoid!!!!!! They are not rated for continuous use. It may stick ON when car is off---not a good thing. NAPA has 75 amp relay kits

 

Yes, I made the same mistake before I realized that it was a bad idea. Fortunately the test was not long enough to cause any problems but I will be replacing it when it comes time to fit the next generator in.

 

Hi guys,any thought on using lead plates,i found some old lead roof jacks,thought about making plates with them ? since lead is a better conducter

 

First off lead is a poison. It is soft and I think it would not hold up too well to either the electrolysis process or the acid or caustic solutions used. The reason stainless steel is used is for corrosion resistance.

 

I can't remember enough chemistry to figure out what you would have combining lead and sodium or potasium hydroxide, but I bet it would be some funky stuff as far as DEP is concerned.

 

Well after doing some more research I have gone back to my original thinking that HHO is just a scam. You guys might want to check out at least this website Run your car on water? - it's a scam! and also all of the articles linked at the bottom.

 

Your right daddycat,i made some lead plates,used baking soda,plates crusted over,it was just athought,going back to ss

 

While I am no expert and I have yet to build a generator, I don't disagree with any of the author's statements. I agree 100%.

I've said it before and I'll say it again, ANYONE that expects free energy is an idiot. But that's not what we are doing here, we are using the Hydrogen as a fuse, to burn more of the fuel that is already there, expelled unburnt.

Let me speak to some of the bigger points:

Yep, big rule there. But we are not getting energy from the HHO, we are releasing the energy from the unburnt fuel. Once again, the HHO is a fuse to increase the speed and spread of the flame front to more completely burn the fuel that has always been there and wasted.

I agree 100%. In a gasser you have an O2 sensor that will increase the amount of fuel injected due to the increase in O2 in the HHO gas. You will have to have some electronics that will fool the O2 sensor. But in our Diesel trucks, there is no O2 sensor. There is nothing that we have to fool and there is no way that the truck will inject more fuel, unless your foot tells it to.

Are there scammers? You bet! Are we falling into their trap? Nope! We are building our own devices and we have reasonable expectations of the outcome. I hope no one here expects to double their mileage. I for one expect modest gains if I ever get the time to build it. Perhaps I will get impatient and visit one of the scammers to just buy something already made. Maybe I should become an affiliate so that I can get a 50% commision on my own sale, who knows.

I will tell you one thing, I think the math is pretty simple when figuring out if this works or it doesn't.

 

i am new to all of this but I have been doing a lot of reading. It seams a big problem is the computer. I have heard of people installing a resistor in place of there map/maf, 02 and other sensors. the problem I see here is high and low RPM operation, temp, weather altitude load on the engine (you get the idea, this is why there is computer controled injection and ignition). What I suggest is installing a resistor decade box in the place of that sensor.Than monitor the engine for what ever you are trying to adjust. For example: Install a stand alone 02 monitor like some people put on carb cars for tuning purposes. Than tie the decade box into were the 02 sensor goes. Go drive around and have your buddy sit in the passenger seat and monitor/record the stand alone o2 sensor and adjust the decade box accordingly. I would think that with this information that you could remap the computer or have a nolagable person build a board to install that would simulate the action. or simply make a switch box that has a few setting say high and low RPMs and you flip a switch. If nothing else this decade box idea will get you some baseline information. Somthing think about.

 

OK. For what it's worth I have MY newest version up and running. It consists of 4" PVC with 2 sets of SS plates 2" X 11". One set positive and one set negative. I'm running distilled water mixed with tap (well water) water and baking soda. I ran out of distilled water so I added the tap water. The mix doesn't seem to evaporate as fast as the straight distilled water and I still get a "fog or mist" as soon as I apply 12 volts to the setup. Does it work? I'm still on the front fuel tank going on 2 weeks. Never happened before the Hydrogen. For me it works. For those that want to try it, go for it. For those that don't believe it works, let the people try it. What if every time sombody was going to try somthing new they didn't because they were told "it won't work"! Inventors are a strange lot. No I'm not an inventor, I just like trying somthing new to see if it works. They, the inventors don't listen to the inteligencia. Does the idea always work? NO!! How many times did sombody try to invent the light bulb before that worked? ETC ETC ETC...........

 

dyoungen, sounds like gen im working on,what truck are you runnig this on,how did you hook it up my truck is 96 7.3 psd