Crewcab Only Thread.
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Wichita ks
No worries. The bed looks the same. I'm just worried about how they compare to mounting to the frame ect.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 527
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
If your truck is an 1974 F350 it will have the narrower frame (34" wide)....the 1978 F250 (if thats what it actually is) will have the wider frame (37" i think)....That will only mean that you have to drill new bolt holes through the box floor...not that big of a deal...take a tapemeasure with you when you go to look at the 78.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,446
Likes: 26
From: Panama City, FL
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,722
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From: Shelton, Wa
Elder User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 927
Likes: 3
From: Lake Point, Utah
Picked it up for 1500 bucks....It's fairly straight...no rot in roof at all...does have some rust in cab corners and doors....but relatively solid....It was originally an automatic truck....and the guy i got it from told me that the guy he got it from started switching it over to a stick shift...it has the trans and pedal assembly and steering column all installed...but drivelines haven't been done (I have the original drivelines for the automatic)...and the motor is part way apart (400)....I am debating on what drivetrain to run....definitely going back to automatic....but not sure what engine I want to run...I have a new in crate 351M (but I am not a fan of the 351M/400 engine)....I have a 460...a 1970 429 coming to me that I could rebuild....a 300 inline 6 that I could do....or I could try and round up another Cummins and do the same swap that I am doing with my other crew.....decisions decisions....
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 7
From: Shelton, Wa
I would say it depends on what you want to do with the truck, I love the 385 series so I would steer you that way.
Factory correct- 351M, towing- 460, fast toy- 429, longevity& decent torque- 300 I6
But for no reason whatsoever should you EVER leave any motor stock. haha
And an OD auto is a must.
Factory correct- 351M, towing- 460, fast toy- 429, longevity& decent torque- 300 I6
But for no reason whatsoever should you EVER leave any motor stock. haha
And an OD auto is a must.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,446
Likes: 26
From: Panama City, FL
Have looked at Gear Vendors OD system? I know there a little pricey but....
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 7
From: Shelton, Wa
For an actual OD tranny I would go E4OD out of a newer 460 rig. You would have to either pull the computer system out of the donor and put TPS and a few other sensors on your motor or spend around $1000 for an aftermarket stand alone transmission controller for the E40D.
For adding an Over/Under Drive unit there is a few options, Gearvendors around $1000 used on average, a Volvo J-Unit which is what the Gearvendors is designed off and the units are around $200 used but you would have to get creative with figuring out how to install it OR Browning made a unit that came in some 80s-90s Fords that are fairly difficult to find I've only seem 1 for sale in my area in the last couple years.
I will be going E40D and swapping the fuel injection onto my motor anyways so the factory controller/computer is my route.
Probably cheapest is to change axle gear ratio, I already have 3.73 and still want an OD
For adding an Over/Under Drive unit there is a few options, Gearvendors around $1000 used on average, a Volvo J-Unit which is what the Gearvendors is designed off and the units are around $200 used but you would have to get creative with figuring out how to install it OR Browning made a unit that came in some 80s-90s Fords that are fairly difficult to find I've only seem 1 for sale in my area in the last couple years.
I will be going E40D and swapping the fuel injection onto my motor anyways so the factory controller/computer is my route.
Probably cheapest is to change axle gear ratio, I already have 3.73 and still want an OD