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Downward milling with a ball nose end mill in drill press is quite doable. Lateral loads on a drill press spindle are not so great.
Not saying it can't be done, rather that, unless an injector builder supports this idea, starts milling their hold downs, and supplies the bolts to use with their injectors, it's not going to happen past a one off thing a person does for themselves. CNCed conical washers would be easier to implement.
Girdle and studs arrived today. Looks great with all edges chamfered, no burrs, all studs and washers accounted for. Did notice the plate has a slight warp to it. Wondering if that could have an adverse effect?
Intended pre-tensioning for the center bearing caps that may have less rigidity than those at the bi directional corners of the block?
Shrinkage from the welded tab on one side of the girdle plate?
Hold my beer while I crank the CNC at full tilt for a cool $1K?
So many possibilities.
If I should ever succumb to PMS... I'll go for that 3" thick Hypermax girdle (doubt that will be warped) matched with a custom billet oil pan carved out by FTN on his laterally loaded wobbly spindle. No one will notice the marks after SSJ rattle cans and bakes it.
Brought the front cover and engine spacer to a local machinist. They said it'd be prohibitively expensive for the HPOP res gasket lip to be machined off as they don't have a horizontal mill, but that the LPOP mating surface should be able to be machined down to take care of the scoring. They'll have to remove the locating dowels to machine the surface, so I'll need to source some replacements (don't suppose anyone knows the size?).
For the engine spacer, with a quick and dirty caliper measurement estimated 9 thousands of variation over the spacer. The issue we are having is, if we machine the spacer flat, what sort of tolerance is safe? I don't see a published number, and TSB 99-23-6 just says "if customer is breaking flex plates replace spacer".
*EDIT* some googling revealed this info:
Originally Posted by dodgedh2
There was a TSB put out about this problem. Main cause was machining of the rear gear cover (machined cast aluminum part between engine and trans). The bad covers were machined off parallel and caused extra load on the flexplate. The fix was to change the gear cover AND the following parts (since they may be damaged after flexplate failure): crank spacer, flexplate reinforcing plate, crank bolts. Since your vehicle has 75,000 miles omn it, then it is possible that the gear cover is OK. These failures are usually low mileage. To tell if the gear cover is OK or not, remove it and use micrometers to measure the thickness of the cover all the way around. The measurements should all be well within .010" of each other. I've seen bad ones which were any where from .015" to .118" different. If your's measures OK, then I suspect that the other parts (crank spacer) was damaged during one of the failures. The flexplate for the 7.3 is pretty durable and doesn't really have any warranty history other than special causes like the gear cover issue.