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Old Apr 4, 2022 | 10:05 PM
  #211  
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Originally Posted by PriusLover
Also was looking for a mechanical boost gauge and Isspro lists a few different voltages. Which voltage gauge do I want?
Originally Posted by PriusLover
In regard to the boost gauge, was looking at mechanical because it's around 100 dollars cheaper haha
I’m a bit confused (normal). Different voltages for a mechanical gauge? Isn’t the wiring just for the light?

Admittedly I could go searching out the gauges and find out for myself but it’s late…

I run the Autometer mechanical gauge. It taps into the 12v dash light wiring for the light. At least I’ve always assumed it was 12v.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2022 | 12:10 AM
  #212  
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Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
I’m a bit confused (normal). Different voltages for a mechanical gauge? Isn’t the wiring just for the light?
Think it has something to do with the dimming function: How to choose your mechanical EV² gauges ? Isspro News, Tech Tips & Events

https://arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-detail-b.php?RecordID=3616
Looks like these would be the best bolts for the exhaust manifolds. Wonder if the increased torque would allow a gasket to work better.

Originally Posted by petrokiller
Prius is the chards in cooler paint or some other stuff?
Magnetic shavings.

Originally Posted by FordTruckNoob
You mean like this? Not quite conical but spherical should work with a little milling of the injector clamp.
That looks good. Milling the injector clamp doesn't sound practical though unless it's like a one off thing a person is doing themselves.

Could use flat head countersunk bolts for the lower bolt. The upper one needs a shoulder.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2022 | 06:34 AM
  #213  
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Originally Posted by PriusLover
That looks good. Milling the injector clamp doesn't sound practical though unless it's like a one off thing a person is doing themselves.

Could use flat head countersunk bolts for the lower bolt. The upper one needs a shoulder.
Downward milling with a ball nose end mill in drill press is quite doable. Lateral loads on a drill press spindle are not so great.


 
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Old Apr 5, 2022 | 09:42 AM
  #214  
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Originally Posted by PriusLover
Think it has something to do with the dimming function: How to choose your mechanical EV² gauges ? Isspro News, Tech Tips & Events
I did end up adding a resistor for the gauge lights. I don’t like them very bright, especially when on the A Pillar.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2022 | 10:17 AM
  #215  
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Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
I did end up adding a resistor for the gauge lights. I don’t like them very bright, especially when on the A Pillar.
EV2’s are adjustable using the Attribute Programmer.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ble-share.html
 
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Old Apr 5, 2022 | 12:50 PM
  #216  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
EV2’s are adjustable using the Attribute Programmer.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ble-share.html
Might be good for the OP, but I’m using Autometer. Thanks for the info.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2022 | 04:41 PM
  #217  
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Originally Posted by FordTruckNoob
Downward milling with a ball nose end mill in drill press is quite doable. Lateral loads on a drill press spindle are not so great.
Not saying it can't be done, rather that, unless an injector builder supports this idea, starts milling their hold downs, and supplies the bolts to use with their injectors, it's not going to happen past a one off thing a person does for themselves. CNCed conical washers would be easier to implement.




Girdle and studs arrived today. Looks great with all edges chamfered, no burrs, all studs and washers accounted for. Did notice the plate has a slight warp to it. Wondering if that could have an adverse effect?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2022 | 06:15 PM
  #218  
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Intended pre-tensioning for the center bearing caps that may have less rigidity than those at the bi directional corners of the block?

Shrinkage from the welded tab on one side of the girdle plate?

Hold my beer while I crank the CNC at full tilt for a cool $1K?

So many possibilities.

If I should ever succumb to PMS... I'll go for that 3" thick Hypermax girdle (doubt that will be warped) matched with a custom billet oil pan carved out by FTN on his laterally loaded wobbly spindle. No one will notice the marks after SSJ rattle cans and bakes it.

Shake N Bake!
 
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Old Apr 5, 2022 | 07:13 PM
  #219  
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Originally Posted by Y2KW57
laterally loaded wobbly spindle.
Hey!! The spindle is rock solid now. It's the table that's wobbly...
 
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Old Apr 5, 2022 | 07:24 PM
  #220  
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CNC says it's normal and a consequence of being laser cut. Should flatten out fine when torqued.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2022 | 02:35 AM
  #221  
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If you still need con rod bolts they are in stock at FordPartsGiant. I put 16 in my cart so evidently they have them.

A steal at $73 each.

I asked and they confirmed yes, that price is each.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2022 | 02:41 AM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by aawlberninf350
A steal at $73 each. I asked and they confirmed yes, that price is each.


​​​​​​Oddly enough makes me feel better about the over-a-barrel price International charged me.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2022 | 03:57 PM
  #223  
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Brought the front cover and engine spacer to a local machinist. They said it'd be prohibitively expensive for the HPOP res gasket lip to be machined off as they don't have a horizontal mill, but that the LPOP mating surface should be able to be machined down to take care of the scoring. They'll have to remove the locating dowels to machine the surface, so I'll need to source some replacements (don't suppose anyone knows the size?).

For the engine spacer, with a quick and dirty caliper measurement estimated 9 thousands of variation over the spacer. The issue we are having is, if we machine the spacer flat, what sort of tolerance is safe? I don't see a published number, and TSB 99-23-6 just says "if customer is breaking flex plates replace spacer".

*EDIT* some googling revealed this info:

Originally Posted by dodgedh2
There was a TSB put out about this problem. Main cause was machining of the rear gear cover (machined cast aluminum part between engine and trans). The bad covers were machined off parallel and caused extra load on the flexplate. The fix was to change the gear cover AND the following parts (since they may be damaged after flexplate failure): crank spacer, flexplate reinforcing plate, crank bolts. Since your vehicle has 75,000 miles omn it, then it is possible that the gear cover is OK. These failures are usually low mileage. To tell if the gear cover is OK or not, remove it and use micrometers to measure the thickness of the cover all the way around. The measurements should all be well within .010" of each other. I've seen bad ones which were any where from .015" to .118" different. If your's measures OK, then I suspect that the other parts (crank spacer) was damaged during one of the failures. The flexplate for the 7.3 is pretty durable and doesn't really have any warranty history other than special causes like the gear cover issue.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2022 | 04:22 PM
  #224  
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What is special about the locating dowels that they can't be reused?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2022 | 04:24 PM
  #225  
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The machinist assumed they wouldn't be able to be re-used after taking the vice grips to em for removal prior to machining.
 
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