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Got a lead on two heads at a junk yard for a reasonable price. They claim to have a no-crack guarantee. Hopefully this'll be just a small hiccup in the scheme of things. As for what could have caused it, I wouldn't be surprised if high EGTs were a factor; the truck did have a tune on the PCM with no gauges, had stock up-pipes, and a ton of boost leaks.
Some good news though; the cam grinder says the cam is good to re-use. Also got new ball bearings for the rocker arms today from the bearing supply. I think they are 3/8(?).
A friend was able to pick up the heads and deliver them to the auto machine shop today. Said they smelled and looked rather burnt... unsure if the engine had been through a fire or a really bad over heating. The salvage yard guarantees a rebuildable core so if there are cracks or the head is warped I can get a refund.
For the rod bolt measurements I decided to go with the cheap summit racing tool and replaced the stock super sketchy indicator with a very nice Mitutoyo one that I actually have some confidence in and will use on other projects.
Will have to fit an external spring to the indicator shaft so that the tool will stay on the bolt as it's tightened. Came out to roughly the same price as the ARP tool.
I would have been fine with a half thousandth gauge (that's what the ARP tool uses), but then I saw this tenth gauge with half inch of travel and I couldn't say no
Another mod you can do with the pan off is right where the pickup screen is, you can cut off the sheet metal covering the other half of the opening.
Finally got around to this today. Gave the tube as good of cleaning/rinsing as I can do. When I take the oil-pan to the metal cleaner people I'll probably have them go over this just to be doubly sure that it's good to go.
Small update. Have been reading up on paints since I want a paintjob that will last and holdup to the heat and chemicals in the engine bay. I know this means two part polyurethane but never considered this due to isocyanate exposure. Evidently an activated charcoal respirator is sufficient when rolling/brushing it on vs atomizing it with a sprayer, so I've decided to paint the components with two part poly over an epoxy primer.
Because this paint cures very hard I won't go forward with the oil pan bedliner. This paint isn't cheap so will save me some money.
Junkyard heads checked out at the auto machine shop with no cracks. They are now projecting end of month completion date.
Realistically, if I worked non stop, how long would it take to build up this engine? We have a big, week-long road trip planned the week after the 17th, so the 17th of July is my hard line.
Junkyard heads checked out at the auto machine shop with no cracks. They are no projecting end of month completion date.
Realistically, if I worked non stop, how long would it take to build up this engine? We have a big, week-long road trip planned the week after the 17th, so the 17th of July is my hard line.
Depends on your ****-retentativeness.
It can easily be done in 4-6 hours if you have everything there, no distractions, and just slap it together (to specs of course) if you are trusting of your machine shop guy.
However, seeing your posts throughout this thread, bank on about 4-6 days for ring gaps, piston protrusion measurements, rod bolt stretch, bearing clearance checks on all rods and mains, and SSJ's influence with painting stuff.
It’s definitely doable. I figure a long weekend and you could have it together and atleast set in the truck. I thought I’d heard somewhere not to tow with it for 500 miles or so in order to break it in properly? Could be wrong but it comes to mind for some reason. I was gonna go by that figure atleast unless I hear differently for mine.
I thought I’d heard somewhere not to tow with it for 500 miles or so in order to break it in properly?
That is one of the benefits of having a professional shop do the rebuild. Swamps ran my engine on the dyno to break it in and verify output before it was sent back to me.