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Uh huh, if you can find a bearing, I can press it in for you. They are made in China though but I think they want to sell you a container load. IIRC, there is some kind of a channel and plastic injected to keep things in place. NAPA offers both rebuilt and new. The new is probably made in China but the rebuilt may well be rebuilt with OEM housings.
Hmm is the bearing and seal one unit then? Are they custom for this pump or are they a standard thing?
No, the seal is a separate part and I recall them being harder to identify than the bearing. The bearing has a number stamped in it. I found them made by several Chinese companies but couldn't get any of them to sell me one. I kind of screwed up as I had one guy on the hook who thought I was a rebuilder and he was willing to sell me one as a demo. By the time I tried to get it, he figured it out and wouldn't sell me one. Bearing number is WR2555145. If you search it, you'll find several mfgs who have it listed but I was never able to get me one.
Got the front cover back today. They only had to take about .010" off to get rid of the scoring. Dowel pins are standard size they had on hand so put new ones in. I also took a die grinder to the hpop res gasket lip and ground it down so that the screen gasket will fit.
Engine transmission spacer has a max thickness variation of 0.005" per the michinist so well within spec.
Manton .095" pushrods arrived today, look nice and sturdy. Was going to use Smith Brothers but they're out of stock. Weld in dipstick adapter also arrived.
Getting a little impatient with the auto machine shop. Still haven't gotten back to me on piston size or bearing size.
You’re not in the boat alone. I was told by my machine shop they should have the measurements for me last week so I can order parts. Still nothing, the block is in the hot tank. So I’m just cleaning my mess up and going through parts, organizing and doing other projects to the truck while it sits.
Straight time pays better when multiple passes are used.
The guy quoted me what amounted to a billable hour before the job, and that included going over the spacer with the micrometer. Whatever the reason I don't think it was to get more money out of me.
Originally Posted by Dan V
I would have thought the machinist would have used like a 3" to 4" face mill rather than what looks like a 1/2" end mill.
"Because you can't do that when the other features around it are at the same level and you can't remove any material from them and your trying to jockey around them." <- Was their reasoning.
A heads-up for anyone who needs a rear main seal tool:
Ordered this set off Ebay. No branding, no case, no paperwork with it so I assume it's a knockoff of the OTC tool. If it is it's a decent one as the construction looks okay, all parts included, and it fits snug on the rear seal. Listed for 272.99 right now but the seller accepted 250 shipped. Definitely an easier price to stomach than what the OTC tool is typically listed for.
Don't know if we have a community tool library going here but, after this build is complete, I'd be interested in renting the assortment of 7.3 specific tools I've accumulated so that others don't need to spend all this money on essentially one use tools.
I've read about the ways people have done without the tool ranging from a 2x4 to using the spacer or flywheel. I could probably make it work but this isn't something I'm confident I could do without a decent chance of error, hence the tool.
