My tape measure only has marks down to 1/16”.

 

Absolutely. Will be on my assembly checklist. I actually printed out the International service manual to have on hand while I put it together, and gave a copy of the spec appendix to the machinist.

Two Fel Pro headgaskets cost me 60 dollars, while two Motorcraft ones would be closer to 200. 6.0 folks really like them, and I haven't read of a 7.3 build being torched by FP head gaskets. Per RR Mahle makes Ford's headgaskets, and I recall you mentioning some folks have had issues with those. As long as the fit is right and the thickness in spec I think it'll work fine.

The Melling intake valves look good save for one box that has a couple apprentice marks:

I'll exchange them, but given the marks aren't on a sealing surface they'd probably be fine (?).

Through some of these substitutions I was able to free enough money to pull the trigger on ARP headstuds and an ATI damper. The studs are mostly to reduce the risk of headgasket issues during the initial ~5000 mile "seasoning period". Chose ATI since it seems to be the preference among folks who get their rotating assembly balanced.

Once I order all the parts I'll post my parts list with prices so it can be of reference to others who are contemplating a rebuild.

 

Another usa made head gasket I have head of are these
https://www.cometic.com/products/C15390-067

 

I've heard good things about those but, if I recall correctly, they require an extremely flat and highly polished surface. I can ask my machinist but I'd guess that'd add to the machining cost.

 

That seems like sound logic and if it is good enough for you then it is good enough for me.

You recall correctly. That was Joey and Chris (both FTE'rs) tearing down the engine when it came up with a failed head gasket. I mentioned this in post #11 above in this thread.

I do not know who makes the head gaskets for Ford and it would be a safe bet to side with Riffraff. Simply based on the picture provided by Joey and Chris, they do not appear to be of the same quality. Direct comparison pictures and focused locations on the gaskets was not performed though. So, pictures do not always tell the entire story.

Since we all enjoy detailed explanations and pictures, I will provide a bit of each below from the linked thread.

Mahle gasket QC issues...





Motorcraft gaskets after the Mahle were not used by the installer due to low confidence.



Tagging @KubotaOrange76 (Chris) in case he is able to recall any specific information about the difference in the head gaskets.

​​​​​​​I hope this helps.

 

Just to be clear, I have no dog in this fight and am not a sponsor or promoter of any head gaskets. I simply want you to be supremely successful in your endeavor and don't want an overlooked detail to slip you up.

Good luck to you and keep us updated.

 

I appreciate your perspective as it encourages critical thought WRT these purchasing decisions. Who knows; maybe I'll look at the fel pro gaskets and say "nope" and get the Ford ones.

https://www.powerstroke.org/threads/...ts-yet.839282/ <- This thread is rather interesting and could explain how a Mahle HG would look different than the Ford one even though they also make the Ford one.

@coreyATcncfab I recall reading on another board that you or a friend of yours has had good luck with felpro HG; that still true?

 

My guess is the burly ARP head stud clampage will compensate for any potential head gasket deficiency. I don't see any obvious problem.

The end-all be-all is fire rings and now is the time with engine at the machinist.

The flaw on the lip of the valve is a Big No. That will burn thru and leak. The dent on the stem is a non issue imo but if they are willing to replace it, take it.

My dos centavos.

 

Fire-rings would be nice but that would require lots of money to be thrown at the machinist, lots of money thrown at the special head gaskets, more money on bigger injectors, turbo, aftermarket rods to make use of the extra HP capability, and money to beef up the stuff in the drive train that 700hp would break. Just don't see myself ever needing that much power in a street vehicle.

Luckily those two valves with the marks came in the same box, so they can both be swapped out with one exchange.

 

You are making a lot of statements I approve of lately.

 

When we (all of us) post things on this social platform we open ourselves to criticism (constructive or not), scrutiny, praise, advice and experiences to be shared. I am very grateful you have and are taking the time to catalog all of your parts, sources and findings when receiving the parts. We too appreciate your drive to "make this right" with the balance of budget and quality.

Good on you for keeping an eye on the prize. The goal is for you to have a "street vehicle" and only you (and your loved ones) know what that means and what the intended use will be. It is sooooooo easy to say "just one step up and I can do this or that" and we start to get mission creep or waiver from the path toward our original goal. Sometimes that is OK in order to achieve a solid mechanical and performance platform, but sometimes we go overboard and need a life preserver sent to us.

Keep us updated and keep going! You are doing great and doing your due diligence with the parts and processes in order to ensure a fantastic result.

 

I don't have anything to add, Sous has it covered. Looking forward to this build.

 

 

One thing I'm still wrestling with is injector choice. From what I've been reading it seems like 160/30 & 180/30 are essentially the same thing except the 180 can inject more fuel at lower RPMS when the pulsewidth can be longer, owing to it's larger capacity. It seems like a no brainer to opt for the 180/30. Larger nozzles were also on the table but it seems like there is a distinct relationship between fuel atomization and how wide the powerband is, with worse atomization moving the power higher in to the RPMs at greater quantity. I'm after a wider powerband at a moderate 400 HP, for which 30% nozzles seem to be the ideal per @Peixinho 's dyno data.

 

180/30 and 160/30 will run EXACTLY the same until a certain PW. After a certain PW the 180/30 will continue to dump more fuel. But on a tow/street tune you probably won't have enough PW to full dump either injector so they will act exactly the same. I won't go into names/details but some companies sell stage 1.5s, 160/30, and 180/30s as the same injector. They literally just send you the exact same injector no matter what you order. But people get really caught up in splitting hairs between those sizes so they offer both.

Low rpms, low throttle input, tow tune, etc... both will run exactly the same.

WOT, super hot race tune, the 180/30 will dump a little more fuel

Here is a video we made that might help learn more about injector sizes and what they mean.