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Honeywell lists 5v pressure sensors for between 40 and 70 dollars. That's a lot cheaper than two gauges and their accompanying pods(?). Big thing I need to know is what absolute ranges would be best for EBP and MAP.
Hah! We went down this road somewhat when we had a string of Motorcraft ICP Sensor failures and we were looking for alternatives. At least the two you have chosen have reasonable prices and minimum order quantities of one. The ones we found for Motorcraft ICP Sensor substitutes had MOQs that required spending thousands of dollars.
I found the thread, it's a good read. If the Motorcraft one I go craps out I'll give it a shot.
Was going to re-use the water pump on the truck, but looks like it's a newer china made model and making some odd squeaking sounds. Seems there's not many good options out there for new water pumps that last. Happened upon a reman Cardone branded one on amazon for twenty dollars. Ordered it because I'm really curious what I'll get for twenty dollars.
I had nothing but trouble with Cardone reman brake calipers on my car. They were poorly built. Boots not seated properly and the boot snap rings not in correctly. After replacing a couple of them and finding the piston seized with rust I began taking the boot off and sealing it myself before install. Current one has lasted a few years. Previously getting 1 year only.
My local part store has changed brands they carry now. They were replacing the Cardones under warranty which is why I kept using them. I was about 1 change away from going to the dealer for a brand new one…
The Cardones made me so leery of the reman calipers that I reused the original OEM 255k caliper when needing the slider bracket on the other side recently. Bought the whole thing, used the bracket, returned the old bracket and new reman caliper for core.
I would find another brand for the water pump if it were me. I have zero trust or respect for Cardone. Sorry to be a negative party pooper.
I would find another brand for the water pump if it were me. I have zero trust or respect for Cardone. Sorry to be a negative party pooper.
I too do not recommend Cardone based on similar experiences I have had and/or read about. A warranty is great to have, but I try not to purchase parts simply because they are under warranty and need to be replaced often.
The last ‘Motorcraft’ brand water pump I got was made-in-china... I have had great luck with ‘new’ water pumps from autozone.
This part doesn’t stress me out. Catastrophic failures are very rare. The water pump will leak and tell you you’ve got to change it ‘soon’. It won’t end a road trip. I can change it in 45min in a parking lot if I had to.
I noted a difference in flatness between a popular wax and oil parts chain store water pump, versus a Motorcraft water pump.
The Motorcraft water pump was machined flat.
The wax and oil parts chain store water pump was delivered as cast, and was not flat.
How long ago was this? About 3yrs ago I was doing (2) water pumps back to back and one customer wanted ‘Motorcraft’. The Motorcraft was stamped made in china and looked just like the Duralast pump - except for the gasket/o-ring. The Motorcraft had a round conventional looking o-ring and the aftermarket had the little tabs on it that hold it in place during install.
Ive installed dozens of aftermarket pumps and not experienced any failures yet.
I will say that the lack of machining absolutely is obvious when using a billet t-stat housing. They often need RTV in addition to the o-ring/gasket to seal.
How long ago was this? About 3yrs ago I was doing (2) water pumps back to back and one customer wanted ‘Motorcraft’. The Motorcraft was stamped made in china and looked just like the Duralast pump - except for the gasket/o-ring. The Motorcraft had a round conventional looking o-ring and the aftermarket had the little tabs on it that hold it in place during install.
Ive installed dozens of aftermarket pumps and not experienced any failures yet.
I will say that the lack of machining absolutely is obvious when using a billet t-stat housing. They often need RTV in addition to the o-ring/gasket to seal.
Interestingly enough... my experience was just the opposite of yours with respect to the gasket included with my tale of two water pumps. The GMB pump (purchased at CarQuest, an adjunct of Advanced Auto, and likewise sold at AutoZone and several other auto parts chain stores under different brand names, all with GMB as the manufacturer) had a conventional gasket ring, whereas the Motorcraft had the self retaining "bumpy" gasket oring with the retention tabs.
In fact, this was one of the reasons I cited to the CarQuest counter as justification for returning the never installed pump to them for a refund. The lack of a self retaining gasket, and, the lack of flatness at the mating surface.
I'm not sure when exactly I changed the water pump, but if I had to guess, it was late 2017 or early 2018.
The factory service manual states that every time the T-Stat is replaced, the T-Stat housing is to be replaced. The housing is a non- reusable part. It expands and contracts and conforms in place with the T-Stat gasket, without the use of any RTV that might "squeeze inside" ... potentially separating into swimming globules carried by the force of flowing hot water. These little globules of RTV can potentially interfere with the thermostat opening/closure, or work their way into the oil cooler, plugging the coolant passages, as you have shown us before with your photos of your customer's trucks.
The ductility of the stamped steel thermostat housing is by design. That design intent is undermined when re-using an old stamped steel t stat housing that has weakened from fatigue cycling. Still, many have reused the old original thermostat housing without issue, just like a lot of people re-use their old U bolts when replacing springs, since the reasons not to are not visually apparent. But in following the guidance of International and Ford, the thermostat housing is considered to be a consumable part, just like the thermostat itself.
The aftermarket billet aluminum thermostat housing, invented from scratch by Bob Riley, owner of Dieselsite, where no previous product like it existed in 7.3L PSD aftermarket that is now flooded with copy cat billet thermostat housings, both domestic and import, resolved an unsightly visual issue (rust), while at the same time causing a new sealing issue (leaks). As I recall, even Riley had to redesign the billet housing from it's introductory iteration, due to leaks. I don't think the inaugural housing had a separate groove for an inset O ring, instead relying on the rim seal that ships with the thermostat. But the flange of the billet housing is stiff, not ductile, and lacking a high modulus of elasticity like the OEM thermostat housing.
The leaking of the aftermarket billet aluminum thermostat housings has been addressed by the addition of a second sealing ring incorporated into the design, but that still has not been enough in some cases, where folks have resorted to using a dab of RTV on the T-stat housing to pump sealing face.
When I did my water pump, I installed a NEW stamped steel OEM thermostat housing, exactly as the factory service manual calls for, and no application of RTV was necessary. In the 4 or 5 years since, I have not had ANY leaks.
Not necessarily planning on running the Cardone pump (if it all looks good then maybe). Mostly I wanted to see what what ends up arriving after ordering it because it's hard to believe it could be priced at 20 dollars.
The name itself implies that such parts are for when that car is done, put on the bare minimum to make it run, and kick it to the curb on craigslist. Car done.
