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I showed this to my machinist, mechanic and super smart friend and he saw no problem milling that face down to eliminate scoring. He sees plenty of room for pump assembly to move back on crank, etc. when looking at the disassembled parts I have laying around. Maybe get an opinion from your machine shop?
Good to hear. The auto machine shop is pretty slammed; will take it to another machinist I've seen before who does odd jobs and see what they'd quote. I also want to have the reservoir gasket retaining lip removed so I can run the L99 HPOP filter screen which is something they should be able to do as well.
Originally Posted by Dan V
I like my 160/30's pretty well.
Originally Posted by ESwift
Either a 160/30, 180/30, or a hybrid 205/30 will be a great choice
Should I expect ICP issues with a T500 and the 180/30s?
@Jamon Norton , you see that button on the right that looks like an arrow? That is the "share" button. It should copy the link to your clipboard and/or prompt you to decide on what method to share it based on your device operating system. If there is a "copy to clipboard" option, do that. Then, come back here and long press in the reply text block and press "paste".
If that is FB Marketplace then it only allows you to share to other FB users or pages I think. FB is dumb that way. Also, beware of the plethora of scam artists on FB Marketplace.
Didn’t know if you found rod bolts, seen these on market place just can’t figure out how to make it a link
Thanks a bunch for the heads up! I was a bit slow in getting to it so I currently am second in line if the other buyer flakes out tomorrow.
Completely disassembled and cleaned the rocker arm assemblies today. No cracks that I could discern in the rockers themselves.
Also cleaned injector bolts... noticed that most of the upper hold-down bolts are bent where the threaded portion meets the shoulder! Both my injector bolts are class 8.8... are newer ones are 10.9?
Also was looking for a mechanical boost gauge and Isspro lists a few different voltages. Which voltage gauge do I want?
I’d way rather have the ISSPRO electric boost gauge. So much cleaner to install and after installing many sets since the EV2’s came out, I’ve never seen (or even heard of) a failure.
I like my ISSPRO EV2 boost (electric), fuel pressure and EGT gauges. I had a FP sensor fail, ISSPRO sent a replacement and a snubber to me at no cost. I had a microprocessor in the EGT gauge fail. This is quite rare based on my understanding. ISSPRO sent a replacement to me at no cost. That was several years ago and I have had no further issues since then. I would highly recommend them.
I understand the thought of a mechanical boost gauge over electronic as I had the same thought when selecting one. I figured the mechanical would be "smoother" and/or instantly accurate, but the electric gauge has done well for 10's of thousands of miles and relays the boost in a reliable method.
Good deal on the bolts, I hope it works out for you!
Thanks a bunch for the heads up! I was a bit slow in getting to it so I currently am second in line if the other buyer flakes out tomorrow.
Completely disassembled and cleaned the rocker arm assemblies today. No cracks that I could discern in the rockers themselves.
Also cleaned injector bolts... noticed that most of the upper hold-down bolts are bent where the threaded portion meets the shoulder! Both my injector bolts are class 8.8... are newer ones are 10.9?
Also was looking for a mechanical boost gauge and Isspro lists a few different voltages. Which voltage gauge do I want?
I just did injector cups and noticed the upper hold down bolts were bent pretty good. I was surprised but I guess it's common. I got new bolts anyway to be on the safe side
Have the injector bolts in either of your cases ever been "retorqued" before?
I did install remanufactured injectors when I bought my truck so the bottom hold down bolts were retorqued but to the best of my knowledge the top hold down bolts, which is the ones that were bent, have never been touched. The truck had original injectors in it when I bought it at 175,000 miles. When I did replace the injector cups recently I do remember the lower hold down bolts being uncomfortably tight so maybe it's possible that I over torqued the lower hold down bolts with the crappy harbor freight torque wrench I was using at the time of the injector install I did years ago. Back when I installed the injectors I either torqued to 125 inch pounds or 130 inch pounds but did not exceed 130 according to the torque wrench.
One of the multitude of diesel companies should make little conical "spacers" so that we can use class 12.9 bolts to hold the injectors.
Got the oil cooler apart today. Some nice looking shards in there.
The BBQ paint I used on the turbine housing isn't holding up so I'm looking at having it and the manifolds ceramic coated (paint still looks good on the down pipe though). The housing would be rather cheap to do but the manifolds look like they'll be ~300 to do the pair. Was wondering if anyone had experience with Rudy's ceramic manifolds? https://rudysdiesel.com/i-30514397-r...werstroke.html . Cheaper than having mine coated and they are new. Plus would have a better sealing surface for the up-pipes.
Machinist said around 80 to grind down the front cover mating surface. Waiting to hear on how much it'd cost to remove the HPOP res gasket lip. Might be cheaper to just get the spacer.
In regard to the boost gauge, was looking at mechanical because it's around 100 dollars cheaper haha
