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Another aspect of this build that should be taken into consideration with the deadline in mind is the "custom" work. The power steering pump and fan clutch for example.
You will not be setting off on a trip with OEM parts attached to the engine, which service or enable critical systems.
Just a thought I had when reading the latest posts in the Saginaw thread.
Another aspect of this build that should be taken into consideration with the deadline in mind is the "custom" work. The power steering pump and fan clutch for example.
You will not be setting off on a trip with OEM parts attached to the engine, which service or enable critical systems.
Just a thought I had when reading the latest posts in the Saginaw thread.
You are correct. Based on the amount of thought PriusLover has put into the custom work though, I am confident it is well-engineered and will serve her well during the trip.
You are correct. Based on the amount of thought PriusLover has put into the custom work though, I am confident it is well-engineered and will serve her well during the trip.
I agree with this 100% and envy her ability to pay attention to detail, but that SOB Murphy is like a hungry hawk waiting to swoop in and ruin a perfectly laid out plan.
I sincerely hope the build goes together quickly and without a stumble which leads to a successful and memorable trip.
That's definitely something I've been thinking about. I'd like to think I have those non-stock things planned out enough such that there won't be surprises, but if there are and they aren't easily fixed before we need to start out on our trip, I'll put the stock systems back on. The power steering is the only thing I'm worried about. The fan clutch and CCV filter are pretty much bolt on affairs.
This is going to sound really stupid, but how do I clock the weld-in dipstick adapter? I sold off the "golden nugget" one I had, and the strip tank removed the marking I'd put on the oil-pan.
What he said. And definitely not a stupid question, I had the same one when I took mine to have the adapter welded in and realized there were 2 notches in the factory piece.
Pointed towards the front of the engine at about 2 o’clock.
You sure it's 60 degrees (two o'clock)? That looks farther forward than I remember:
60 deg
One o'clock lines up more with what I remember n see online: 30 deg
Pickup of the parts from the machine shop will be the 5th. Needs to be running like a top by the 17th or I'll get what for!
I dug in to the alternator to replace a noisy bearing and found one of the brushes has almost worn through the slip-ring. I could do a rebuild kit but I don't think I've time to complete that along with everything else (plus we want to upgrade the sound system in the future, maybe run a fridge), so got a Denso style 240 amp Mechman.
Originally Posted by cleatus12r
bank on about 4-6 days for ring gaps...
This a good idea to check or are factory tolerances from Mahle usually within the spec?
I can grab pics of my pan in the morning with the adapter. I had the shop use the factory piece to figure out the clocking for the weld in.
As for the ring gaps, the ones I’ve checked on mine are within spec so far, haven’t checked all yet as I’m waiting for the connecting rods to get their new wrist pin bushings and only have one bank of the engine set up so far
This a good idea to check or are factory tolerances from Mahle usually within the spec?
You don't want to take it back apart again because your pistons look like this before the first oil change:
These are from a 460 that didn't make it to the first oil change. It came from a big remanufacturer out of Spokane, WA. Mistakes happen but these rings were too tight by 0.010".
The ring end gap has less to do with the pistons themselves than it does with how far overbore the machine shop went for piston-to-wall clearance. It's easy to check while everything's apart and if they do need to be filed, the tools are readily available (ring file and feeler gauge). You don't need any special bore depth gauges...a piston with an oil ring in it works just fine to push the compression rings down.
The ring end gap has less to do with the pistons themselves than it does with how far overbore the machine shop went for piston-to-wall clearance. It's easy to check while everything's apart and if they do need to be filed, the tools are readily available (ring file and feeler gauge).
That picture is definitely persuasive. I'll put the gap check on the to-do list. Will have to call total seal and see what specs they have for their 2nd ring.
Welder I went to primarily works on food grade stuff so he TIG'd it up all nice like.
Also had him put in a NPT flange for the Racor CCV drain. That port should be well above the oil line.
Also ordered the welded jets from Riffraff. For the bolts I'm going to use grade 10.9 with permanent retaining compound (International manual says blue threadlocker is suitable though).
I’m guessing you don’t need that measurement any more.
Haha yeah I suppose it's too late for a do-over. Appreciate your willingness to check, though. I found this post this morning which clarified the issue:
