Anyone have the freeze plug part numbers and how many to get?

This is what I've pieced together:

F81Z6026BA Coolant plug
4 on heads
7 on block

F1TZ6026A Under valve cover
8 on heads

40064R1 oil plugs
4 on block

Permatex No 3
Manual references a driver for the F81Z6026BA 1-1/2" plugs. Does it have to be a specific one?

 

Machine shop called and evidently the block came loose in the surfacing fixture and caused some excess material to be removed. They said they are going to source a short block to work up (at their expense). Back to playing the waiting game.

I'm rather amused that, by the end of this, the only original parts will be the crank, cam, rods, and aluminum castings.

 

Oops!!!!!!

 

So looks like the truck won’t be joining you on your trip? Or think you’ll still have time.

 

Definitely won't have time now. We bought airfare and a reserved a rental months ago though incase of something like this, so we're good.

 

Perhaps this oops by the shop is a blessing in disguise. Nice to see you had a plan B all along.

 

Sorry about your new troubles but good job to plan ahead!

It was a tight schedule anyhow so maybe this will let you be more relaxed during the build.

Good on you for finding a machine shop that is stand up enough to say “oops”, claim it as their fault, and correct the issue.

Sooo speaking of cam, rods, and crank…
Just kidding!

 

@PriusLover I'm sorry for your troubles but concur with the others in saying this may be a blessing in disguise. Have a good trip first then come back relaxed and with a fresh mind to continue an awesome build.

 

Machine shop says all machining on the heads and block are done. Only thing left is waiting on a new set of cam bearings. Evidently one from the Mahle set I ordered was undersized enough it just "went through" the bearing bore when they tried to press it in. Confirmed that the bore is the proper size so they're assuming it's due to poor QC on Mahle's part. Ordered another set and are waiting for it to arrive.

 

Picked up heads, rods, crank today.


Assume this small scratch on the head shouldn't be an issue?

I bought valve seats for them to press in but I honestly cannot tell whether that was actually done.



Anyone seen these markings before? They are on most of the high pressure oil rail ports, the fuel rail ports, the banjo bolt ports...



Am a bit concerned that the mallory weights were added radially instead of in to the side, if that's indeed what they are

 

Oh noes. You definitely have to do this and then face mill now.

I keed I keed.

 

That honestly looks horrible if you were supposed to get the heads completely redone, but I dont know what you exactly paid for, so take my comment with a grain of salt. That is absolutely NOT the way to balance a crank when adding weight. The mallory (heavy metal) is supposed to be installed the way you said and pressed in with along with a small tig weld stitch for safe measure. The journals on the crank dont even look like they polished them.

 

I notice the valves aren’t installed. They did do a valve job right?

 

Head w/valves

Example of surface finish

Exhaust manifold surface not touched it looks like

Bronze guides installed

Better view of the weights (these are the only two)

Better shot of journals


Rod balance on top

On bottom


What the journals looked like when the crank came out, for comparison

@RacinJasonWV Yes I bought Melling valves and SBI valve seats for them to machine/install. I'll be installing valve seals n springs.

@coreyATcncfab I've only paid deposit so far, but I asked them to:

-bore for 0.020 over pistons, shine up head gasket surface, line bore crank caps, machine crank caps for the cncfab plate girdle
-polish crank journals, balance rotating assembly
-check if cam is in spec and polish
-install new wrist pin bushings and cam bearings
​​​​​​​-press in new valve seats, valve guides, machine valve seats/valves
​​​​​​​-polish up head mating surface and exhaust manifold mating surface
-shot peen connecting rods (looks like that wasn't done), hone connecting rod bore for ARP studs

Was supposed to be ~2100 for all the machining. All parts have been bought by me; they've only provided the bronze valve guides.
​​​​​
​​​​​​​I'll bring up the issue with the crank weights. I'm assuming if I want it done right I need a new crank?

​​​​​​​Between the myriad of delays, small fortune spent so far, and now questionable workmanship possibly leading to even more money and delays, I feel like I'm nearing the end of my rope.
​​​​​​​

 

First part,

Second part, I’m sorry and understand your frustration. You’ll get it.