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FYI - my OEM dipstick is 45-3/4 inches from the top flange to the bottom of the bulb, but it has a few bends, so I suspect new it would have been 46 inches or so.
Just remember that the Tee dipstick takes a different tube than the yellow Circle dipstick. There is probably a difference in length. I switched to the yellow as I've had the cable pull out of my Tee Handle in the past.
I can feel occasional slight vibration at idle only after this highway drive. It’s not like a dead misfire but it’s like a partial misfire. It’s also sporadic.You can just barely feel the engine for a nano second like one cylinder didn’t fire with the same contribution. need to pull the dipstick and see if I got bubbles. I can also try to do a cylinder contribution test when it’s acting up.
the only thing original on the engine now with the fuel system is the oil rails. I resealed the nipples with the HHC kit. Didn’t see any excessive erosion. Never had a hot start issue. No excessive IPR. The old engine did this similar thing after a long highway drive. Shouldn’t be the FICM as I’m running the replacement. Injectors all new. Replaced 4 and 6 when they were acting up when hot. Maybe it was 2 and 4 I can’t remember now.
I took a closer look today at the level heights and dipstick lengths.
I compared both an original dipstick from 2006 and a new part, both with the yellow ring eyelet.
The early dipsticks with the black T-handle require a different outer tube. If these are used for the late engines, the oil level is definitely higher as they cannot be inserted deep enough.
The length is difficult to measure because the dipsticks are slightly bent even when new.
So I measured the protrusion when plugged in, the old one from 2006 was 3mm / 0.1181" longer than the new part from Ford. But for proper operation this should not be of importance.
here's an early dipstick in the '06 pipe:
I determined how much oil would fit in the lower oil pan without the gasket touching the oil. I placed the oil pan at an angle of 4°, approximately as it is when the engine is installed in the truck. It fits 14,5Litres / 15.3 quats in the pan.
I then measured how deep the dipstick goes into the oil when the oil pan is full. At the angle at which the dipstick enters the pan, the distance from the max to min mark is 20mm / 0.7874".
The depth of the oil pan is 212mm / 8.3464" . The height of the oil pick up tube is 198mm / 7.7952", so the oil screen sits 14mm / 0.5511" above the bottom of the oil pan.
If we now look at the following pictures, it can be seen that when the oil level is up to the max mark, at most the rearmost crank flange of the crankshaft only lightly touches the oil level. As a result, it is almost impossible for foaming to occur at an oil level at the max. mark.
The oil is sucked in 14mm above the bottom of the oil pan. I think it is impossible, even if 2 or 3 quarts too much is filled, that the oil screen would suck in air bubbles.
On my own truck I always run 5mm / 0.2" above the max mark, I have never had any problems.
The oil is sucked in 14mm above the bottom of the oil pan. I think it is impossible, even if 2 or 3 quarts too much is filled, that the oil screen would suck in air bubbles.
On my own truck I always run 5mm / 0.2" above the max mark, I have never had any problems.
thanks for doing the pictures and measurements. This is great information! You have contributed a wealth of information. I think Bismic has a good idea with the aeration test to put this to bed. I’m starting to feel like I’m chasing perfection. Maybe this is a 2003 engine characteristic. I know later engines have the different oil rails with extra capacity, ICP in a new spot, and the different HPOP. My brain just can’t accept it’s doing something strange and not knowing why.
And my recollection is that the main reason folks were running on the low side on the stick, was leaks from the bedplate weren't as bad as they were higher up and still in the Normal range...
I can't imaging that the oil will be spun around more when the oil level is at the max mark than when the oil level is at the min mark.
thanks for doing the pictures and measurements. This is great information! You have contributed a wealth of information. I think Bismic has a good idea with the aeration test to put this to bed. I’m starting to feel like I’m chasing perfection. Maybe this is a 2003 engine characteristic. I know later engines have the different oil rails with extra capacity, ICP in a new spot, and the different HPOP. My brain just can’t accept it’s doing something strange and not knowing why.
I understand you, I also get nervous when the truck shows any changes.
I permanently monitor with an Edge CTS2 always all important values while driving.
Do you also use a scanner?
Maybe over time you can see any unusual correlations....our trucks are sometimes very special....
I can feel occasional slight vibration at idle only after this highway drive. It’s not like a dead misfire but it’s like a partial misfire. It’s also sporadic.You can just barely feel the engine for a nano second like one cylinder didn’t fire with the same contribution. need to pull the dipstick and see if I got bubbles. I can also try to do a cylinder contribution test when it’s acting up.
the only thing original on the engine now with the fuel system is the oil rails. I resealed the nipples with the HHC kit. Didn’t see any excessive erosion. Never had a hot start issue. No excessive IPR. The old engine did this similar thing after a long highway drive. Shouldn’t be the FICM as I’m running the replacement. Injectors all new. Replaced 4 and 6 when they were acting up when hot. Maybe it was 2 and 4 I can’t remember now.
I just saw your video from today.
You should compare the ICPpsi and IPR% values. your ICP value is quite high. Most of the time the engines run with 580-590psi in idle when warm. IPR 25-28%. cylinder contribution test is always worth to check.
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