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Coolant leak help

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Old Dec 25, 2022 | 03:30 AM
  #661  
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From: Spanaway
I was just wondering. Is it only the rear main seal sleeve that needs the addition of the Loctite compound to the crankshaft?
 
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Old Dec 25, 2022 | 06:33 AM
  #662  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
I was just wondering. Is it only the rear main seal sleeve that needs the addition of the Loctite compound to the crankshaft?
The newer sleeves have a red coating on the inside. I have never added an additional sealant.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2022 | 09:03 AM
  #663  
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Rear seal do not, they have the sealer on the ID. The front wear sleeves need Loctite as a sealing agent, and all the instructions I’ve seen say to not separate the seal and sleeve, put them on as a pair.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2022 | 09:35 AM
  #664  
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The Ford front main seal sleeves I install, have a (brown) coating, too.








coating on the rear main seal "sleeve" is red (one the ones I have)




 
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Old Dec 25, 2022 | 04:35 PM
  #665  
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From: Spanaway
I knew that you were not to separate the seal from the sleeve. It's nice to see that they have added compound to both of the seal-savers.

Maybe the OP might want to clean the crank end and use the Loctite compound on it, if after inspection he does not find any sealant.

On second thought, I wonder if adding Loctite to it on top of the coating will cause any issues.

One last question. What are you guys doing working on Christmas?
 
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Old Dec 25, 2022 | 04:44 PM
  #666  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
. What are you guys doing working on Christmas?

 
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Old Dec 31, 2022 | 02:38 PM
  #667  
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I still need to verify my actual oil quantity,I am now at the low end of the stick. I noticed that roughly a "quart" has disappeared after 1200 miles on this road trip. Its no longerDoing that weird surging of rpm and icp after a long highway drive.I suspect that it could be oil aeration after hours of high speed driving. My theory is that my engine at the full Mark is over filled and foaming up. I only notice this phenomenon after continuous high speed operation 2200-2400 rpm for <60 minutes. When it returns to idle 640 rpm it almost immediately does this surging thing where the rpm fluctuates 610 - 660rpm.The ICP also moves around 40 psi.turn it off for a few minutes and it goes away completely.it usually runs at 640PSI 21-22% IPR. When the engine is not doing this act it will hold the rpm 640 +-4 rpm extremely stable
 
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Old Dec 31, 2022 | 02:50 PM
  #668  
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However, this would mean that the oil is completely foamed due to this small differential quantity, as the oil is sucked in at the very bottom of the sump. Your engine is behaving strangely, have you tried a different oil viscosity?
I will check the volume of the sump next week and measure the height of the suction strainer.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2022 | 02:56 PM
  #669  
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15. Oil Aeration Test
• Run engine at 3000 RPM for 1 minute.
• Take oil sample from the Oil Pressure Switch port at idle.
• Inspect sample for presence of air bubbles

» Excessive oil aeration can be caused by depleted oil additives, pick-up tube leak, front cover seal leak, or upper pan seal leak.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2022 | 03:27 PM
  #670  
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I seem to remember this same story long ago and why some people ran with specific amounts of oil, lower than full on the dipstick.

If it's fine at the "lower" mark, I'd just try to keep it there and see how if the issue stops permanently.

I wouldn't be surprised if Mark and I didn't butt heads on the subject in the past.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2022 | 04:08 PM
  #671  
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Originally Posted by bismic
15. Oil Aeration Test
• Run engine at 3000 RPM for 1 minute.
• Take oil sample from the Oil Pressure Switch port at idle.
• Inspect sample for presence of air bubbles

» Excessive oil aeration can be caused by depleted oil additives, pick-up tube leak, front cover seal leak, or upper pan seal leak.
I would have to tap a fitting at this location to sample. Running T6 5aw - 40 oil.this would be a good test to do. It seems worse after long run times. How many bubbles is too many?
 
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Old Dec 31, 2022 | 04:09 PM
  #672  
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
I seem to remember this same story long ago and why some people ran with specific amounts of oil, lower than full on the dipstick.

If it's fine at the "lower" mark, I'd just try to keep it there and see how if the issue stops permanently.

I wouldn't be surprised if Mark and I didn't butt heads on the subject in the past.
I did have to purchase a new dipstick a whiletoback due to age, old one was crumbling. Maybe its too short
 
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Old Dec 31, 2022 | 05:57 PM
  #673  
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My only recollection of an issue with it (some running a lower level) is that some people, contrary to Ford's instructions, checked oil level by resting the collar of the dipstick (where it transitioned to a wire) on the edge of the dipstick tube wall instead of fully inserting it. Or something of similar sorts anyway. I think that one got resolved, and "who said what" is certainly of no consequence now!
 
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Old Dec 31, 2022 | 07:59 PM
  #674  
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And my recollection is that the main reason folks were running on the low side on the stick, was leaks from the bedplate weren't as bad as they were higher up and still in the Normal range...

I'm really looking forward to Hartwig's measuring of the volume of the sump itself, of course done in Hartwig maner, in which he will tilt the sump at the angle it is at in its installed state in the truck!

Happy New Year my friends...!
 
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Old Dec 31, 2022 | 09:52 PM
  #675  
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Old bones should stay buried.

Happy new year. Hartwig has a jump on us. Or does he?
 
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