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OP, YES, please thoroughly clean your pistons and rod assemblies before any assembly work. Glass beads have a tendency to get into places you would never suspect. That stuff goes everywhere. Very nasty cleaning media. B.
Yep it’s being addressed. Brass brush, acetone, compressed air. Rods/piston, wrist pins being taken apart and throughly cleaned. I think that should do it. Visual inspection I don’t see anything really left over from the process. The skirts were protected as to not imbed anything into them or remove the skirt coating.
Block painted Assembly time I can’t feel any play between the piston and the connecting rod when assembled. A few wrist pins were fairly snug. Not bound up but I could tell there was a tight fit between the bushing and pin. The others slide a little easier. I suspect if I measure them they are probably “loose”. Machine shop said they were good to go. Come to find out they didn’t measure all of them because they “felt good. I’m kinda weary now but I don’t feel absolutely any play from piston to rod.
How easy should these wrist pins slide through the bushing of the connecting rod?
a few were fairly tight fitting (no binding) and the other 6 the wrist pin slide through the bushing fairly easy. No detectable slop or play could be felt by hand when applying pressure or pulling on the connecting rod/piston. The tighter fitting wrist pens got my curious. I know the clearance is pretty darn tight.
Block painted Assembly time I can’t feel any play between the piston and the connecting rod when assembled. A few wrist pins were fairly snug. Not bound up but I could tell there was a tight fit between the bushing and pin. The others slide a little easier. I suspect if I measure them they are probably “loose”. Machine shop said they were good to go. Come to find out they didn’t measure all of them because they “felt good. I’m kinda weary now but I don’t feel absolutely any play from piston to rod.
In case of doubt, I prefer a little more play than when the parts are about to jam. I also find the manufacturer's specified clearance between piston and bore on the limit.
How easy should these wrist pins slide through the bushing of the connecting rod?
a few were fairly tight fitting (no binding) and the other 6 the wrist pin slide through the bushing fairly easy. No detectable slop or play could be felt by hand when applying pressure or pulling on the connecting rod/piston. The tighter fitting wrist pens got my curious. I know the clearance is pretty darn tight.
Slightly oiled, the bolts glide slowly through the hole on the connecting rod due to their own weight, it may also be that you have to help a little with your fingers.
How easy should these wrist pins slide through the bushing of the connecting rod?
a few were fairly tight fitting (no binding) and the other 6 the wrist pin slide through the bushing fairly easy. No detectable slop or play could be felt by hand when applying pressure or pulling on the connecting rod/piston. The tighter fitting wrist pens got my curious. I know the clearance is pretty darn tight.
Now a question for Jack : What did you in addition to the bed plate seal to seal the plate to block at the known leak points?
I used Motorcraft TA-31 at every cord gasket, preferably the outer side, but not always. TA-31 has exceptional grip and does not leach additives that can interfere with HEUI oils antifoaming ability.
When I put in my original crank (before finding the unusual situation of it being mis ground), I used the Permatex Anerobic sealer. The lower end was pulled after several months and the product had not fully cured as it's supposed to when I replace the crank. Talking to the Permatex rep, the Anerobic should not have been used there, in his opinion. I had asked if the promoter would have improved the situation, and he said that is only needed in cold environments. No matter, you can't perfectly scrape the extruded sealer off the inside parting lines, something that did have me concerned when I first put it together. And not fully shown in the video of the crank install, I went nuts removing the inner squeeze out.
I did not do that with the front seal, though, only at the parting lines of the bed plate and block, per the manual. Examples.
Slightly oiled, the bolts glide slowly through the hole on the connecting rod due to their own weight, it may also be that you have to help a little with your fingers.
ok when lubricated they just slowly slide through the bushing in one smooth motion probably 2-3 seconds.
oversll the engine was a strong runner and I heard no lower end engine knocks so I’m fairly confident it should be a happy camper
Going to mic my wrist pins and measure bushing diameters this week. Worst case I’ll need bushings installed and fitted to my wirst pins. It seems that this is actually a pretty precise machining operation in order to do you it correctly. I’ll call around this week. From what I understand the rod end will need to be bored out slightly for the new bushings to go in but it must be very round and concentric. Then hone to fit. While maintaining the relationship between the small end and big end.
The rod end might not be needed to be bored. The bushings after install, yes,
I went to the post office, I can only order the Priority triangular tubes by mail, they don't have them at the POs. So here are the shipping costs. First for the entire kit with the rod, USPS vs FedEx. Both directions is the cost of buying all the parts for 2-day. Close to the same for FedEx.
Then just sending the washers, spacers, etc. You supply the 3/4" rod and pipe insulation foam (rags would do too).
The mere act of holding the wrist pins in your hands for a period of time can make them swell enough to give a tighter fit. The wrist pin clearance are VERY tight as they should be. B.
(0.0005-0.0009 in)
Connecting rod-to-pin clearance 0.012-0.030 mm
So, in laymens terms, one half to 9-tenths of one third of an average humans head hair. Talk about splitting hairs LOL.
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