yes sir, I was informed they were in spec and a light polish cleaned them up just fine.

it looks like I’ll need some new flex plate hardware as they are TTY

 

The lower ends on these engines are tough.

The bolts are not tightened in the typical TTY manner of using angle, but they are stressed at the torque value.

 

Looking for replacement torque converter nuts anyone got a part number or know the thread size/pitch?

 

The way mine came out I have the feeling that they are not made like a normal nut.
I know that Ed/Scott has the part number for the nuts. You might give them a call.

Also Jack did I ever share what head gaskets Kill Devil Diesel sent with the kit?





Given the past rep they have I will not be using these head gaskets.



I thought you might like a look at the heads that are going on this engine.
Also on a side note. The way they designed the heads you have to use
sealant on the intake manifold bolts do to the water jacket and the ends
of the bolts being into that space.

 

Those look really nice Sean. Weird about the water jacket thing.

Are those handed heads? The reason I ask is because of the difference in the coolant pathways top left to top right. It might be due to the bolting and being aluminum.

It really looks like they just adapted the 6.4L head to a 6.0L. The bolting is the same. IMO, that is a good thing.

 

People have reused the converter nuts. I didn't. They are a distorted nut.


On the list, quantity of 6.

 

The nuts coming off on my engine were is so bad a shape after I had to use a damaged nut removing tool
to get any grip on them that they found there way into the metal recycle bucket.

Jack there was something about the way they reworked the cooking passages that made that change.
They are the Icon heads without any porting and polishing. Had I wanted that done I was looking at a lot
more time and money. But at the rate I am going getting this all back together I could of done it.

What are your thoughts on the gaskets that they sent for me to use?

 

those heads look great! Very nice casting. KDD claims they have increased flow and swirl with their port designs. There’s some guys running high HP with them. Looks like a quality product!

 

I remember that thread.

I had looked at their documentation for the changes, but to me without cutting up 20mm heads and 6.4L heads, I thought much of it sounded like was was done to those head designs. I really think those two versions was where Ford got involved in trying to deal with the 6.0L head design faults. The "20mm" "Commonized" heads had changes, obviously, but the 6.4L had more time to address and learn. To me, it's a better design. But being me, I'd prefer if it was iron. The aluminum you have might be fine. Jared on another site countered to me that this isn't the '80's, much has been learned. I don't dispute that, but the aluminum OE designed heads of today are not restrained to copy the iron model. These are. But the 6.4L design may make the bridge. Time will tell. I'm becoming an old record.

I can't address those gaskets, I've not paid attention to them. My camp is OE or Fel-Pro, and Fel-Pro because I had talked directly to them, otherwise I'm an OE guy.

I never got back to you on the computer issue. Force quitting won't take care of the problem. Whatever has happened after Nov, the lost videos show up as ghosts. You can see the image in Photos, but if you got to the root Photo Library and look into the masters, they are not there. I just did another Time Machine restore to the end of November, the library is at 1.1TB, until I let the Photos app "correct and reload", then it's down by 400GB. I'm going to try to move the library to a remote hard drive to keep the files in place and then manually move them off, trying to keep the original data metadata.

It almost like these are based in the cloud, but I don't think I ever enabled the cloud. ..... Maybe I did at one point.

 

I wished I knew how to get ahold of a friend of mine. He is very deep into apple and how to fix them.
It sounds like the ghosts is a file from the cache.

On the heads. Something I was told is they have it setup so that they can use the raw casting for the 6.0L or the 6.4L.
The just have to setup what one they are making in the machining process.

 

I don't doubt that, as the bolting pattern is the same. However, I was surprised that Nav/Ford never upped the 6.0 heads to the 6.4L castings. But probably the 20mm heads tooling was not paid for, and they were only making the 6.0L for the lower power E vans by the time the 6.4L castings were being poured.

I did a screengrab from my head gaskets video, overlaying the 6.4 gaskets on the 6.0 block. I had not looked at the valve stem placement or the valves' size. That might be the factor in preventing using a 6.4L head on a 6.0L. But if the stems are in the exact locations, a virgin casting might be used for both valve sizes, or if 6.4L OE heads are being reworked, the inserts could be adjusted, depending on what's available out there for seat inserts.

 

I agree with most of what you said and it's what I was thinking.

I will ask if any Ford service manual has a "note" or "recommendation" anywhere that says to check clearances when getting heads or an engine back from the machine shop. And if they do say this, to what extent are you supposed to be checking clearances? Or, how "many" different clearances are you supposed to be checking?

My guess is that it doesn't say it anywhere in a Ford service manual. But, of course I could be wrong.

Now, just because it's not written in a service manual DOES NOT MEAN that I'm saying that it shouldn't be done. I think we could start a completely different discussion about whether things that are stated in Ford service manuals or TSBs and so on should be taken as gospel or whether we as owners or repair shops or otherwise should "deviate" (there's that word again. Sorry but it's on my mind now of course) from what Ford recommends. Obviously, there's the long standing debate about coolant and transmission fluids and of course the oil debates as well. So, we don't need to get into all of that here.

I'm just wondering how often people are actually checking some or many of the things that need to be checked. As I mentioned in my previous post, is it possible or maybe even a high probability that this may be the reason why there are so many repeat issues with the 6.0? Or, to be fair, maybe with any repair of this sort with any engine or vehicle? I suppose the simple answer is "duh, of course it is" but I suspect we'll never know or even come close to knowing because that would require getting information that most people would probably not want to admit.

How many techs would admit to not doing the checking of someone else's work (perhaps more pointedly work like this with heads, engine, and etc.) prior to reassembly?

Anyway, perhaps I sidetracked the conversation a little and I'm sorry if it took that sidestep too far. I'm obviously glad that you took the time to do these checks because it could have resulted in something problematic down the road. That is the main thing that is important in all of this recent discussion. I'm hopeful that you don't have any more hiccups but I'm sure there will be.

 

I thought that the main reason that the KDD Icon heads were better was because they had a completely different AND NEW mold or casting and it was supposed to "correct" the problems with the original 6.0 head or at least correct it as best they could within the constraints of still working with stock or modified motors with 4 bolts around the chamber and etc.. And, of course, adding the O-ring portion into the end result is an obvious plus. Isn't one of the main things also supposed to be a "beefier" overall thickness to the head to make it stronger and provide less chance or warping / tenting? Did they redesign the support "bridge" between the main head bolt holes or is it the same with just thicker webbing? I haven't compared so just wondering. I know we can all watch their videos again but I'm just wondering if there have been any updates since those videos are a few years old now.

 

Got the block on the engine hoist for now. Need to get it back on the engine stand after I get the new camshaft installed



Pistons look pretty good they did a good job blasting out the crowns and the ring lands. Skirts look good they didn't hurt the coating.



Crankshaft journals were in great shape. Polished up pretty nice. Happy about that.



Another shot of the pistons. Pretty clean. Going to disassemble them. Clean them real good again. Install the rings. Lubricate the wrist pins


Block was decked .004" and .005" to clean up the surface. Finish looks fantastic. Better than the new cylinder heads I got. This baby is smooooth. I don't have a profilometer but I reckon the Felpro's will be very happy sandwiched between to very flat surfaces.

 

Did you sandblasted the pistons?