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Well, it sucks that you goofed up the bearing and I'm sure you're now second guessing your decision to "mess" with it. But I'll throw this one at you to "try" to help make you feel better.
Although you likely could have just left it and it "might have" been fine, my guess is that although it "might not have" caused any problems, there's a possibility it would have. And it might not have showed up in 50k or 100k miles but perhaps it would have with some issue with the cam. Or, for all you know, it wouldn't have caused an issue with the cam at all.
But, here's the thing. If you wouldn't have done anything, you would have ALWAYS been wondering if you should have while you were driving it. Especially considering that you are spending all of this time and money (probably the time being more of the important factor now but of course I could be wrong) on this project. And if something did happen, even if it wasn't directly related to that oil hole for the cam bearing journal, I'm sure you would have always "wondered" if it was related to that EVEN IF it wasn't.
So, I guess, in short, you were damned if you didn't or damned if you did do something. Either way, you can't (or couldn't) win.
Obviously none of us are there to actually see the situation in person but your pictures have good enough resolution that we should be able to see what you are referring to EVEN THOUGH you mentioned that the angle was a little different. So, based on that (and what you typed), I would say that it doesn't "appear" that the bearing was lined up properly. But, in fairness, I am not familiar with how they are supposed to sit in this particular engine or whether there is an "angle" to the way they appear as we can see them in the engine. So, maybe it was "okay" or acceptable. But of course, the holes should simply line up in "most" cases. But, maybe this is a different case. Again, I don't know and there are people here that do know these things so they can point out if the bearings should have been moved in another 1/64" or 1/32" or more or less. Or, if the holes weren't lined up properly and they should have been installed differently (turned slightly one way or the other).
Look, I'm sure you were likely doing the same thing that many people have done before when doing work of this magnitude. Whether it's an engine rebuild/overhaul or you're taking apart an alternator, steering box, transfer case, transmission, or something else fairly complex. You run into something that doesn't look right so you question it. Then, you do some research and find that you aren't getting a clear answer to your concern. So, you ponder what to do in your garage all the while wanting to move forward because you had momentum and now you're feeling that momentum slowly going away and you don't want that to happen because then it's hard to get it back (sometimes). So, you grab a cold one and think about things for a moment or two and go back to trying to do more checking or whatever work is required on that part of the project. And then it's 2 or 3 am and you know you have to get up at 6 or 7 am to do whatever so you know you need to get your butt to bed. And if you're married, the spouse is wondering what's going on not necessarily because they are upset but just out of concern since it's getting so late. And then you start to feel like the project just took a bad detour since the spouse was concerned. Or, maybe not (which is great) and you're just getting tired so you know you have to just wrap up tonight's (or the day's) work and head to bed.
And when you turn out the garage light, you feel a little defeated because there was a hiccup in the progress. At the same time, as you're getting ready for bed and in bed trying to get the 3 or 4 hours of sleep that you so desperately need, all you can think about is that damn bearing that you just now screwed up and are thinking you should've just left it alone.
Nah....no you shouldn't have. Because it would have killed you if you would have left it alone.
So, I say to try to look at this in a "positive" way even though it's going to cost you more money and time. Of course nobody wants to have to do this stuff but at least if you get it done and it's done correctly, you'll feel a lot better knowing it was done correctly while you're driving that truck down the road. It's a bummer obviously but hopefully you'll get new bearings and a tool to install them correctly and that will be that. I guess I would ask others if there is a particular tool or way to install them so that you don't damage them AND PROBABLY MOST IMPORTANT, how to properly line them up and to what depth they need to go. Is it exactly in line with the holes so the alignment is the same on both sides and the holes are lined up 100% even with the oblong shape of the hole in relation to the hole in the engine or something else? (I'm sure the answer here is obvious but perhaps there is some different way they should be lined up for this particular engine for some reason).
Hey, at least it's just a bearing or set of bearings that can be replaced and won't cost much money in the overall project. It could have been worse like messing up the engine block itself because it was dropped or damaged.
yeah I’ll get it fixed up and then have more peace about it. I think the first bearing from the back side is actually backwards the oil hole is not perfectly centered on the bearing. I think it the bearing was put in the other way the oil hole would have better aligned.
yeah I’ll get it fixed up and then have more peace about it. I think the first bearing from the back side is actually backwards the oil hole is not perfectly centered on the bearing. I think it the bearing was put in the other way the oil hole would have better aligned.
Please don't tell me that there is actually ANOTHER issue that is from the "work" that the machine shop did. I said I didn't want to pile on but come on. If you really are having a bearing installation issue with more than one bearing now, what else is going on? This is more than one thing now right? I don't know man. I'm not trying to be Debbie Downer here because after all, in my previous message I was trying to give you some words of encouragement. Perhaps you are "picky" but I think you should be.
If be leary about the glass beaded ring lands and pay extra attention to the cleaning of those. Hopefully they left the skirts alone.
The skirts still have the original coating and it was protected. I’m cleaning the pistons before install as a protective measure. I will run a brush through then, use acetone, and compressed air. I feel comfortable with that.
If you need the “kit”, it’s ready to ship. You’ll need threaded rod and nuts.
Thanks for all your support much appreciated! I ordered a lisle cam bearing tool, few extra bearings, worst case I could have the machine shop drive the new bearings in for free. Not to bash them im sure it was good enough but I’m not looking for a redo after this build for a while.
I’ll let you know about borrowing your tool. I think the idea of pressing them in mechanically is better than driving them with a hammer. These bearings are somewhat flimsy and require some care to install correctly.
Rolled and segmented, yes they can easily twist and distort. While I used the Ford bearings, I also have a set of Mahle, which are one piece and some who have crunched up the Ford prefer the Mahle.
From the video, I could get them home. I wasn't going to show this while you were leaving them alone.
The rod I have is a 3/4" fine thread, it's from another project. 3/4" all thread from Tractor Supply/Home Depot/Lowes, which would be coarse, could be used. The rod you could "rent". Or I could ship this to you. I think UPPS has triangle tubes for Priority shipping, but I've not handled them. I have shipping tubes, too. The basic washer kit I was thinking of the same size box as I shipped out the engine lift brackets with. I also use some plates from my seal install kit, I 'd have to figure out what I used. Just ship it back to me when you are done if you want to use it.
Buying the washers from McMaster is going to run around $40 by the time you are done. Buying the rod and nuts probably around $20-25, so the made up kit would be ~$65.
The rod I have is a 3/4" fine thread, it's from another project. 3/4" all thread from Tractor Supply/Home Depot/Lowes, which would be coarse, could be used. The rod you could "rent". Or I could ship this to you. I think UPPS has triangle tubes for Priority shipping, but I've not handled them. I have shipping tubes, too. The basic washer kit I was thinking of the same size box as I shipped out the engine lift brackets with. I also use some plates from my seal install kit, I 'd have to figure out what I used. Just ship it back to me when you are done if you want to use it.
Buying the washers from McMaster is going to run around $40 by the time you are done. Buying the rod and nuts probably around $20-25, so the made up kit would be ~$65.
let me know if you could send the entire thing in the mail. I’ll compensate you for your shipping and a reasonable rental fee then send it back in a week.
OP, YES, please thoroughly clean your pistons and rod assemblies before any assembly work. Glass beads have a tendency to get into places you would never suspect. That stuff goes everywhere. Very nasty cleaning media. B.
OP, YES, please thoroughly clean your pistons and rod assemblies before any assembly work. Glass beads have a tendency to get into places you would never suspect. That stuff goes everywhere. Very nasty cleaning media. B.
That was the reason why I asked that in post #225. I have previously also blasted everything with glass beads. But these small beads settle everywhere.
It's 24" long, so it should ship. Monday morning I'll check out the box at the post office and see if it's worthy. If not, I've got the cardboard tubes that long materials have been shipped to me in, I can cut one down. Maybe my Colt Cam tube might work. I still should have some of the pipe insulation I used too.
If you want to cover the shipping, that's fine, I'm not looking for a rental fee.
Rolled and segmented, yes they can easily twist and distort. While I used the Ford bearings, I also have a set of Mahle, which are one piece and some who have crunched up the Ford prefer the Mahle.
From the video, I could get them home. I wasn't going to show this while you were leaving them alone.
If you have covered this in your video or somewhere else, then direct me there if it's easier but since the cam bearings are a pressed fit, do you use any type of lube / oil around the outside prior to installation or just install them dry? What about using any type of product such as Loctite? Perhaps this is a "duh" question and this one is directed towards the 6.0 specifically but perhaps you do or don't recommend it for any engine. Also, do you have any "tips" for doing the cam bearing installation correctly or at least what you feel is correct?
Sometimes I see certain guidelines or procedures that are either written in the service manual or I've read somewhere that you should do certain things for one type of build (or particular portion of an engine) but then on another, it's completely different.
I think in one of your videos, you talked about the upper head bolts (the smaller ones) having a certain torque sequence or amount but it was written with the intention with using Loctite. And then, there was a revision to not use the Loctite or maybe there was no Loctite ever to be involved but the torque amount or sequence changed based on something. I can't remember what now.
Anyway, in general, would you be against using Loctite around the outside of cam bearings (for most engines) and if so, for what reason other than making them harder to remove down the road?
That was the reason why I asked that in post #225. I have previously also blasted everything with glass beads. But these small beads settle everywhere.
I’m using a brass brush to scrub the ring lands, acetone, and compressed air to clean everything up to make it sanitary for assembly, including removing each wrist pin and cleaning the bore, pin, and small end of the rod. Then using some lube in the pin bore, pin, and the small end of rod. I’m fairly confident they should be clean and good to go unless it’s microscopic and I can’t see it.
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