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You can do it by yourself too. Do you have the equipment to meassure pistons and cyl. bores?
I have to do the same work next 1-2 weeks.
I have an engine here with bad EGR cooler failures.
Yeah I could clean them my self that’s a good point. I was hoping to drop block, crank, pistons, front, rear covers, oil pan, and adapter plate, hpop cover and the oil cooler cover off and have them professionally washed to make assembly much easier and sanitary.
I have a telescoping bore Gauge and a micrometer that can tell me where I’m at
how do I bolt this engine to the front of the block to my engine stand? Are the front cover bolts even strong enough to support the short block?
The "interesting" part of block cleaning procedure is for me to get the oil galleries 100% cleaned.
If I remember right, the front plugs of the block oil gallery have to be removed.
If the walls are in good shape and not worn you could hone and re-ring.
Check and see if the top section of the walls is just carbon or if you need a ridge reamer.
My engine was ever so slight that I could of gotten away not using a ridge reamer.
The ridge can cause problems when you try to put the pistons back in.
Hmm My cat Xander was trying to type with me. I think he may be a little put out with me.
He is not getting as much "ME" time as he is used to with the two new additional cats.
Yes I am up to 4 of them.
Bella F1 - Savannah
Xander - Semiasse
Pan F6 - Savannah
Athena F2 - Savannah
Pan is the youngest at about 9 months and 13 Lb. He is going to be a very big boy.
When I get some good photos I post them.
You mount the block from the sides. If you try from one end you loose access to that cover and it tends to be a bit heavy for the stand.
I could see a small stand folding up like a cheep table that you sit the kids at for dinner when you have everyone over for Thanksgiving.
You don't even what to know what that one costs. I got a non name brand for about $1000
with the side adaptors for the Ford/Navistar engine.
Fully dressed you have around 1100 Lb of engine and even with just the heads on it your going to be pulling hard
on those head bolts to reach the torque value needed. Jack had a good setup and others have taken two of the lighter
stands and made them into a singl estand to help to deal with the forces. Also this engine can get a bit top heavy
and sping if you don't have some way to stop it.
Here is the stand I have at home. Just like the OTC but not blue and white. and the impotent part costs WAY less.
If the walls are in good shape and not worn you could hone and re-ring.
Check and see if the top section of the walls is just carbon or if you need a ridge reamer.
My engine was ever so slight that I could of gotten away not using a ridge reamer.
The ridge can cause problems when you try to put the pistons back in.
Hmm My cat Xander was trying to type with me. I think he may be a little put out with me.
He is not getting as much "ME" time as he is used to with the two new additional cats.
Yes I am up to 4 of them.
Bella F1 - Savannah
Xander - Semiasse
Pan F6 - Savannah
Athena F2 - Savannah
Pan is the youngest at about 9 months and 13 Lb. He is going to be a very big boy.
When I get some good photos I post them.
Sean, do you have a recommendation for a ridge reamer for a 6.0 engine? I want a good pruduct, nothing from chinesium.
If your not going to bore it then no.
You need to determine if there more than just a carbon deposit at the top.
As for what brand it's a very simple tool and Chinese would not be a put off for me
so long as I could look at it first. The one I have came from Autozone.
I have not yet discovered a ridge reamer in Germany. I usually buy these things in the US because it is cheaper than buying here despite high transport and import costs. Hence the question for a recommendation. With Lisle I have already made quite good experiences.
I am tired with the razor blade to remove the edge on the cylinder bores by hand.
I bagged and put id info on all the bags and for some reason I still think I have misplaced parts.
I bagged and labeled the majority as it came off the engine, and I still have questions. One of the problems was in the process of removing the paint (reman motor), defrosting, and re-painting some lost their way. And in the end, I replaced a lot of my bolts with new bolts. Now I have a nice box of bolts.
I really have to a write up on how I made my stand, but I talked of options earlier. B, you can use the lower stator/grounding threaded holes, but up top you could use three or four of the 8mm bolts if that makes you comfortable. But also remember, you lifted the engine out with four 8mm bolts, and even one 10.9 8mm bolt has the clamp load of over 8,000lbs, lifting capacity of ~1,000 lbs. As long as its the arms that are taking the side loading, not the bolts themselves.
Based on the hone image, I'm not sure he has a ridge to worry about.
I have not yet discovered a ridge reamer in Germany. I usually buy these things in the US because it is cheaper than buying here despite high transport and import costs. Hence the question for a recommendation. With Lisle I have already made quite good experiences.
I am tired with the razor blade to remove the edge on the cylinder bores by hand.
I would go with the Lisle if that is what you have access to. They do make some good tools.
I really have to a write up on how I made my stand, but I talked of options earlier. B, you can use the lower stator/grounding threaded holes, but up top you could use three or four of the 8mm bolts if that makes you comfortable. But also remember, you lifted the engine out with four 8mm bolts, and even one 10.9 8mm bolt has the clamp load of over 8,000lbs, lifting capacity of ~1,000 lbs. As long as its the arms that are taking the side loading, not the bolts themselves.
Based on the hone image, I'm not sure he has a ridge to worry about.
Good point. I just need to get the oil pan off and the bed plate off. Hoping to get my parts over to the machine shop this week
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