Coolant leak help
I did mine with one of those little tools that you fill with the flush and them
blow it trough the lines to blow out all the old oil and any other contaminates.
Does your system have a second orifice tube for the back or does it use a valve?
Basily you need the flush and a compressor and a flush kit like this thing.
https://youtu.be/SuzcTdZIz3c
https://youtu.be/JpcPRoHQ6cI
It sounds like I will flush everything but the AC compressor?
Yes you don't do the compressor.
Also I will look later and see if I have the right PDFs for your Ex.
What year and you said it has rear air.
Thanks. You weld better than I do, which is why I don't sell these welded. You may have to grind down the weld nuts' flange to accommodate the fillets' height; they don't take much of a load. Seeing this, I probably should move the flange holes higher; there's enough meat.
I don't know if your instructions included this, but if you walk the swing arm side to side while it's under load, rotate the turnbuckle nut that's under tension to walk it on the backplate with the swing arm's movement from time to time. I conceived it as moving the swing arm sideways at first setup and adjusting when you are against the bell housing.
Lifting bracket in its home
Fits real nice
She’s about ready to pull toddler woke up from nap so dad was out of time
Uppipes disconnected not too bad from the bottom of the truck. PB blaster helped.
Looks like the turbo has been replaced. Shaft feels tight and wheels look good. Gonna clean the Unison ring and vanes. Already had the upgraded drain tube
I'll just have to grab my laptop and pull the files we need. Are there any other that while I am in there
you can think you might need/want?
I am so pissed at myself right now. I was moving the trucks around and locked both sets of keys in
the one truck that needs an engine. At leads I don't have to worry about someone driving it off.
Not sure how the heck I knocked the door lock down yet and with out power even if I find one of the extra fobs.....
jack has a great setup. The instructions are top notch like all his productions. Came with hardware, shackle, even a small bottle of locktite. No complaints here.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I'll just have to grab my laptop and pull the files we need. Are there any other that while I am in there
you can think you might need/want?
I am so pissed at myself right now. I was moving the trucks around and locked both sets of keys in
the one truck that needs an engine. At leads I don't have to worry about someone driving it off.
Not sure how the heck I knocked the door lock down yet and with out power even if I find one of the extra fobs.....
Sean, my welding is farm grade, so I'm not comfortable doing that. Plus, then I want to charge for me to take to a welder, and the entire concept of this was to reduce the pricing so people who are already hurting don't have to put out a lot of money for something they may once use twice. I even ship it in a small PM box, so lower the shipping cost. And I'm not making money on these, just paying for the steel and tools I bought to develop the best approach. The price will probably go un in the future. I thought I would only sell a few kits, do the work on them when I had spare time. But now I'm selling more than expected, and I just did a time study, and I spend two hours cleaning, drilling, tapping, and grinding after I get the laser-cut steel. I can't keep doing this.
If you look at the top of the swingarm and the tops of the flanges, I grind those down to remove the laser-cut roughness that could develop into a stress riser if left alone. I made a time study video of the work, and I may add that to the lift of lift bracket videos to show the work involved.
The other version works very well too. You can use ratchet straps to adjust the pitch and yaw of the engine. I think the version 6 bracket with the swingarm provides more fine-tuning. For me, doing the engine install by myself, it helped adjust the angles between the bell housing and the engine backplate. But again, version 3 is simple and gets it done. I've got several images from people who have used them.
One of the very first kits sold was both versions to a marine. He used the version 3 kit to pull the engine and left the coolers in front. Not what I'd do, but he did. But overall, I don't get a lot of feedback once they are sold.
Sean, my welding is farm grade, so I'm not comfortable doing that. Plus, then I want to charge for me to take to a welder, and the entire concept of this was to reduce the pricing so people who are already hurting don't have to put out a lot of money for something they may once use twice. I even ship it in a small PM box, so lower the shipping cost. And I'm not making money on these, just paying for the steel and tools I bought to develop the best approach. The price will probably go un in the future. I thought I would only sell a few kits, do the work on them when I had spare time. But now I'm selling more than expected, and I just did a time study, and I spend two hours cleaning, drilling, tapping, and grinding after I get the laser-cut steel. I can't keep doing this.
If you look at the top of the swingarm and the tops of the flanges, I grind those down to remove the laser-cut roughness that could develop into a stress riser if left alone. I made a time study video of the work, and I may add that to the lift of lift bracket videos to show the work involved.
The other version works very well too. You can use ratchet straps to adjust the pitch and yaw of the engine. I think the version 6 bracket with the swingarm provides more fine-tuning. For me, doing the engine install by myself, it helped adjust the angles between the bell housing and the engine backplate. But again, version 3 is simple and gets it done. I've got several images from people who have used them.
One of the very first kits sold was both versions to a marine. He used the version 3 kit to pull the engine and left the coolers in front. Not what I'd do, but he did. But overall, I don't get a lot of feedback once they are sold.
I used to work could do 1/2" and not even break a sweat. I think it could do up to 3/4"
without any extra options. The edges were as smooth as glass. The only tit is the one
that is there to keep the parts from falling off and that is in programming. So it would
not be hard to remove that from the cut.









