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I don’t use 3/8” hose to the fuel pump. 5/16” hose is a significantly better fit. I understand a lot of people use 3/8” hose here successfully, but I’d start by looking at this connection.
A failing FPR can definitely make enough bubbles to cause this. It’s easy enough to inspect, just be careful not to break the housing. I crack the bolts loose after removing the return line, then hold the housing tight while removing the bolts. Don’t go ape-tight reinstalling the line (and new vibraloc sleeve if yours is deteriorated).
’Bad’ FPR is just deteriorated o-rings, but I haven’t found replacements, so FPR replacement is required if it’s bad.
Congrats on getting it started, it sounds smooth and healthy in the video. These turbos are really efficient and run clean. Recently when towing my 5th wheel up a 7% grade past 6,500' up to 7,500' I saw an EBP/boost ratio of .91 / 1. EBP was lower than boost...
As for the soft codes, you can plug your wastegate solenoid into the harness plug and tie it up out of the way if you want to remove the code. There is an EBPV code eliminator available, I think @sjbj was the FTE'r that found one recently for a good price.
These are only subject to your desire to clear all codes.
As for the bubbles in the Racor, they are small, but they are there. You could remove the inlet tube from the Racor and plumb that into a container of diesel with a hose. Then run the truck and see if the bubbles still enter the Racor screen filter. If they stop after a short period, your problem is aft the Racor. If they persist, your problem is at the Racor or the hose.
That would be my next step instead of dropping the tank just yet. Try to pinpoint the issue for a targeted fix action instead of spending time and effort to drop the tank again. Not yet anyway...
I used the 90 degree elbow that SSJ kindly sent me. With that intake elbow on the floor of the tank and the rubber return elbow pointed vertically, I'd be surprised if the bubbles were from the FPR. Plus I replaced the FPR when I rebuilt the fuel bowl.
I used 3/8 line going from fuel tank stainless line to the Racor (with appropriately sized barb fitting on the Racor). The new line was slipped over the "barb" on the fuel tank line, and clamped behind it using two fuel injection clamps facing opposite directions. I added another clamp yesterday in front of the "barb" for a total of three... no change.
From the Racor is a 5/16 line going to the fuel pump. I wasn't able to get that hose over the "barb" on the fuel pump, but it is secured with two opposing fuel injection clamps.
I tried tightening the barb fitting going in to the Racor, tightening all the fuel injection clamps before the Racor, and filling the tank to about half full.
The fuel injection clamps I got were from NAPA and tend to get deformed when tightened. I'll try getting some better quality ones and seeing if those help. Also could try sourcing fuel from a bucket and seeing if the bubbles persist (If they stop then it's the compression fitting). If the bubbles are still there I can try bypassing the racor, and dumping the return line in to a bucket and see if it's spitting out bubbles. If it doesn't, then that tells me the problem could be the Racor or the fitting on it. If the bubbles are still there, then they are being caused at or after the pump and are being drawn in to the fuel intake elbow.
Any other ideas or erroneous assumptions in my troubleshooting process?
Heat the end of the 5/16” hose in a cup of boiling water and slide it over the ‘barb’ on the pump. A single clamp is adequate. You’ll probably have to cut that hose off the pump in the future.
Heat the end of the 5/16” hose in a cup of boiling water and slide it over the ‘barb’ on the pump. A single clamp is adequate. You’ll probably have to cut that hose off the pump in the future.
That’s a good idea but still shouldn’t be the cause of her bubbles in the Racor. Those are on the incoming side and the pump is post-filter.
PriusLover, if you do take the tank back out to work on the compression fitting I would try to do some sort of pressure or vacuum testing on the assembly. From top of tank fitting to end of in-tank elbow. This would check compression fitting seal and for possible pin holes in the factory assembly.
Seems there has been 2 people dealing with air issues lately so might be a good idea to do this test as part of the normal Hutch process in the future.
Basically I replaced all the clamps with Swedish ABA injection clamps. They seem to have much less of a chance of deforming when tightened down on the 3/8 line.
The hard line coming out of the tank now has one clamp before the "barb" and two after.
I also replaced hose-barb to NPT fittings with JIC barbs and JIC to 3/8 NPT on the Racor. That way, if I need to disconnect the hose, I just undo the JIC fitting instead of cutting the hose off the barb. After changing the clamps, fittings, and removing/reinstalling the filter screen, I noticed a drastic reduction of bubbles.
I was still seeing a few stray ones, especially if I tapped on the filter housing. I wanted to see if the tank was contributing to this so I connected the the inlet of the Racor to a hose in a bucket of diesel:
No change. Rules out the tank and hose. Last I looked at it with the truck running I didn't see any bubbles... I'm guessing this has been resolved.
Did a little test drive on the free-way. Was able to get up to ~25 psi of boost on the on-ramp. Have to say I'm quite pleased. Thing is a lot more pleasant to drive vs it's "block of wood" disposition before. It's stupid easy to hit the gas and a moment later realize you're doing 80.
I have noticed that the intermittent knocking on wood crackle sound during decel and idle is worse. It's very loud when passing a building reflecting the sound back at you. It doesn't correlate with a loss of power or anything so I have no idea what it could be. Perhaps a tired injector? I'll try to get a recording of the sound. Somewhat grating for it to sound worse after the hutch mod, four line feed, and tightening the loose injectorbolts on the passenger bank.
Also new after the drive was a harsher sounding idle on the passenger side. This sound normal?
Can’t comment on the noises but your air bubbles look good to me. The fuel bowl should take care of ‘filtering’ a small amount and send it back in the return line which will now float out instead of being sent back to the engine.
I don't think it can be over stated how much the drivability is improved with this turbo setup.
Before, if you are doing 60-70 on the freeway in overdrive and need to accelerate, you either downshift to get the RPMs high enough for the turbo to kick in, or you try to lug the engine. Either option not good.
Now, going freeway speed in overdrive, you can accerate without needing to downshift thanks to the turbo kicking in around 1500. And it just pulls and pulls with so much less pedal than before. An astounding difference.
Put on rear shocks today so checked how the system was holding up:
Noticed a small leak on the driver manifold/uppipe connection. Tightened the bolts but not sure if that will do any good. Might talk to Irate, or perhaps see if some copper sheet could be cut and used as a "gasket".
Noticed some oil weeping around the turbo oil supply (photo was taken after I'd wiped it a little). Tightened the fitting a little more. If it continues I'll look in to replacing the hose and fitting (can't be sure which could be the culprit).
This GlowShift AIH plug is junk. No o-ring on it, and evidently leaks enough to blow the thread sealant out.
The knocking has become worse in terms of how often it appears upon decel. Still not correlating with any noticable performance issue. Still trying to get some good audio.
I noticed at one point the transmission didn't quite want to go in to OD; kind of tried to shift, backtracked, then went in to gear. Been meaning to flush the transmission fluid anyway so dropped the pan:
Welp. Got a couple days of enjoyment out of it at least. Grounded for now until the transmission can be rebuilt with money and energy I don't have. Sorry everyone.
Sorry to read about your transmission issues. Kind of a bummer, but looking at the positive side, you found the problem before you were using and/or counting on the truck.
As for the driveability and performance of the truck with the new setup, I agree. I used to be dead set on 160/0 or /30 injectors, but after towing our 5th wheel cross country from GA to ID with 260,000 mile AD injectors, no more.
When it comes time for injectors, AD's will go back in. There was plenty of power even towing up long 7 mile grades at 7%. There was plenty of power and no smoke at 7,000' and up to 9,000' ASL. Next time we will go higher in elevation and closer to 10,000'.
EBP/boost ratio was .91:1 (better than 1:1) surpassing 6,500' on a 7% grade at 2000 RPM, 20 PSI boost, 93°/94° IAT/MAT. All this and averaging 12.3 MPG over the course of the entire trip with the 5th wheel in tow.
Like you, I am very pleased with what I saw, photographed, recorded and data logged from the T4 turbo.
Very grateful to read about your thoughts on the T4, and am confident you will get the 4R100 sorted out.
I don’t think the AIH is pipe thread. Believe it requires a gasket for sealing. You can use a Cummins oil drain plug (shortened mine to keep out of flow) and gasket. Is your current plug NPT? If not, you may just be able to buy a gasket for it and tighten up.
Stinks about the transmission. I rebuilt mine myself. Too bad you’re so far away or I could lend a hand (with all my extra time… got my own projects backing up). Somehow I always make more time for other’s peoples stuff. Lol.
The small particles on the magnet may be normal, but that large piece is a concern.
Appreciate the words of encouragement. We were supposed to use the rig for a camping trip first weekend of August so it hit a bit hard realizing that, after all this work, that wouldn't be happening. Today made some calls and a, local performance diesel shop recommended an experienced rebuilder. Didn't speak long but what he said sounds good at 4k complete cost, and can fit us in soon. Feeling a little more hopeful today.
@RacinJasonWV given the size of the shard I'm thinking part of a retainer ring. Who knows how long it's been in there, though I wouldn't be surprised if it's recent since the truck went from having less than stock power to more than stock. Currently using a Hydra with the PHP tunes. I'd love to try and rebuild the thing myself but lacking a shop and some of the more specialized tools prevents me from taking that route.
@Sous Your methodical data collection efforts were a large driver in our decision to go with this system. You should feel proud of that invaluable service to the current and future community here.
The rebuild isn’t too bad but that transmission is huge. Getting it out of the truck isn’t something I would want to do in the parking lot. Super heavy too so carrying it into your apartment for the rebuild wouldn’t be much fun either! Once all the way to the bottom it took my whole arm to reach the parts. All the special tools needed can be fabricated. Luckily my dad is pretty good at that so he hooked me up based on some info I found on another forum.
Home rebuild is not something I would recommend for your situation. I think it cost me $2000 just in parts… or was it $1200? My darn memory. Point is, it will cost a fair share even just in parts so $4000 to a reputable shop is probably a decent deal.
Adding a Hydra and SXE should make this a totally different truck than the one you purchased!
