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The HPOP will flow an insane amount of oil. You could crank it with the lines disconnected but will have trouble not making a mess. Can you extend the hoses to allow length to put inside a large bucket with a lid? Hold the hose while your SO does the short cranking? Beware of the splash back!
When replacing the hose on dad’s truck it had an issue snapping into the fitting. I would crank and as it started to build pressure the hose would pop off and shoot oil all over the place.
Perhaps I'll try turning the engine by hand; should result in a much more managabe flow I'm assuming. Will also call up the Parker store on Monday and ask about fittings with protective screens; see if they have any options that could work in this context.
Had to quit early today due to the insane heat we are having up here, but was able to get the gaskets cleaned, UVCH hooked up with a quarter under each connector, and the valve covers on. Inching closer!
I decided to replace the rusted out short bolts with studs I grabbed from the hardware store (really more like long set screws):
This makes it so much easier to remove/install the valve cover and gasket since the studs retain it after bolts are removed.
If I had a blasting cabinet I'd probably have painted the HPOP, bowl, and reservoir. But I'm getting burnt out at this point and want to wrap things up. Maybe I'll do it when I replace the injectors ; )
RJVW: Why would the CSD downpipe rule out studs?
I was very unimpressed with the ARTR header wrap's lack of durability, so I replaced the up pipe wrap with the DEI basalt stuff:
MUCH BETTER! So much better I'm convinced the ARTR stuff is just coated fiberglass instead of basalt fiber. The DEI stuff doesn't spew a cloud of fibers whenever it's moved, the weave allows one to stretch it tighter around the pipe, and you get more coverage out of the roll because it wraps tighter. Highly recommend using stainless hose clamps to secure the ends as they can get much tighter than the stainless zip ties. If you use them make sure the screw portion of the lower clamps are angled towards the back of the truck so they don't mess with the up pipe/manifold bolts.
The CSD pipe kind of hangs over top of the valve cover. Don’t think you would be able to pick it up enough to clear the studs without disconnecting the DP. But on second thought, not sure you could remove the VC no matter what unless disconnecting the DP.
FTN: I used needle nose on the stainless ties, so probably not as tight as your able to get, but I've a feeling worm clamps will hold up to thermal expansion cycles better than zip ties(?).
RJVW: Ah yes I see what you mean. Yeah I think you wouldn't be able to remove the VC with the DP there, studs or not, unless you remove the AC compressor. The compressor hangs over the front edge of the cover, so you need to maneuver the cover towards the firewall to clear it.
Running in to a fitment issue on the driver's side up pipe. Can't tell whether this is within acceptable variation or if it's an exhaust leak waiting to happen.
Basically this is what happens when the collector is barely threaded in to the pedestal. If I completely detach the collector from the pedestal, I can get both up pipes symmetrical on the exhaust manifold mating surfaces, but then I can't get the collector close enough to the pedestal to thread in.
Regardless of which way I do it, the passenger up pipe goes on without problem.
Looking at @Sous 's video, it seems this is normal?
Has anyone tried to use a copper gasket to seal between the ups and manifolds? Don't particularly have a lot of faith in rusted, lumpy iron casting.
With the collector unbolted and the help of my partner I was able to get the driver's side secured somewhat better:
I thought I could suck the collector in to its proper position on the pedestal L bracket using the two bolts that go through the bracket and thread in to the collector. Didn't work on one side; ended up cross threading first several threads. Was pretty mangled but with the help of a tap it's working smoothly now.
Regardless it wouldn't have worked anyway because the flex joint hits the engine when it's mounted that way.
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