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I looked back through your thread to see why you have so little clearance for your up pipes but did not find anything.
When I installed the up pipes I tried mounting them symmetrical on the manifold ball flange, but doing so resulted in contact in the above two areas.
Short of removing the up pipes and having them bent—which isn't gonna happen before the transmission comes out—there is no way to have the up pipe sit on the flange symmetrically without the pipes hitting the engine.
Based on the wear pattern on the manifold ball flange, it looks like they weren't mounted symetrically from the factory. The whole point of a ball n socket joint is to allow some variability WRT mating angle. The problem here is the ball flange is extremely pitted, and the clamps do not provide uniform clamping force due to premature deformation and lack of chamfer on the contacting edge.
New manifolds would likely fit the problem but, aside from being expensive, that potentially means new leaks where they mate to the engine. Smoothing the interior of the up-pipe flange might help, but there are limits on how thoroughly I can do this without removing the pipes.
Only thing I can think of for now is stronger bolts and a copper crush ring or pre-existing exhaust gasket that can be made to fit.
Got new partially threaded 10.9 bolts and found a gasket at the auto parts store that seems to fit well.
The gasket ID is ~2 inches (larger than the ID of the exhaust manifold ball flange) and has a metal center. This should mean that, if the gasket suffered a catastrophic failure, it should blow out vs being sent to the turbo.
Torqued both bolts to 30 ft-lb and did the soap water test. Seals completely! I put on the brakes and revved it in drive a little, still no bubbles. Have to take it for a test drive to know for sure if it'll hold under WOT... currently refreshing the overload springs so u-bolts are off. Will have it back together on Wednesday, so will find out then.
When I installed the up pipes I tried mounting them symmetrical on the manifold ball flange, but doing so resulted in contact in the above two areas.
Short of removing the up pipes and having them bent—which isn't gonna happen before the transmission comes out—there is no way to have the up pipe sit on the flange symmetrically without the pipes hitting the engine.
Based on the wear pattern on the manifold ball flange, it looks like they weren't mounted symetrically from the factory. The whole point of a ball n socket joint is to allow some variability WRT mating angle. The problem here is the ball flange is extremely pitted, and the clamps do not provide uniform clamping force due to premature deformation and lack of chamfer on the contacting edge.
New manifolds would likely fit the problem but, aside from being expensive, that potentially means new leaks where they mate to the engine. Smoothing the interior of the up-pipe flange might help, but there are limits on how thoroughly I can do this without removing the pipes.
Only thing I can think of for now is stronger bolts and a copper crush ring or pre-existing exhaust gasket that can be made to fit.
Sorry. I had not considered your clearance issue might be in the lateral direction. It is odd that your up pipes come that close to the engine/bellhousing.
In any case, it looks like you got your issue figured out so well done.
Dug out an old tablet and configured Torque Pro gauges (including a transmission fluid temp finally). Will supplement this with an Isspro EGT gauge above the steering column, and will check fuel pressure with liquid filled gauge in the engine bay.
In addition to what Leonard mentioned, consider adding MAT instead of or in addition to IAT.
Below you can see a "gauge overlay" I created (thanks for the help Leonard) to show the performance and PID's when towing with the 363 SXE for the first time. I attempted to bunch the like PID's together in order to keep comparing them easier on the eyes and attention span.
The best part of about these virtual/digital gauges is that they are customizable to your liking. So, if you prefer to have IAT only, that is 100% up to you and there is nothing wrong with that. For my use, I preferred to see the delta between IAT and MAT, just like between EBP and MAP.
Just a couple of thoughts to ponder on when your mind goes to wandering.
For TCSlip, be sure to read TCSlipAct and not TCSlipDes. Consider adding EBP.
Using Tugly's stuff in Torque Pro. The PID for TC Slip is 2211b8... Assuming this is the right one? His Turbo Pressure Delta gauge is supposed to show difference between EBP and boost I think. Is this sufficient?
Got the Isspro pyrometer installed and working. Opted for steering column placement to keep the gauge in the same eyeline as the dash. Works great and doesn't obscure important info.
Here's a close up of the tablet. Shows the max recorded values from a WOT test drive this evening in a PHP 80HP performance tune:
I'm starting to wonder if the Hydra prevents the PCM from "seeing" more than 25 PSI boost? Can't seem to get above that number. ICP hit ~3200 (bodes well for the used L99 HPOP). EGT maxed just under 1200° IIRC. "Turbo pressure delta" hit 13PSI. I'm sure y'all will be able to decipher this info better than I.
Finally got the Dorman coolant bottle in. Works great with no leaks and makes the engine bay look less decrepit. The old bottle is disgusting with some kind of sludge at the bottom (fluid is fine, though).
Still need to check fuel PSI but will likely do so after the trip this weekend. Will also hook an analog gauge up to the y pipe and compare to the sensor reading.
MAP sensor will only allow a max reading of 25psi boost. This is the limit of the sensor. It will require an aftermarket gauge to read actual boost beyond this point.
This plays into the max delta you are seeing as well. Once the boost reading is maxed out then your delta values are no longer true. It will still be beneficial during sustained boost towing to see how good the boost:EBP ratio is.
Using Tugly's stuff in Torque Pro. The PID for TC Slip is 2211b8... Assuming this is the right one? His Turbo Pressure Delta gauge is supposed to show difference between EBP and boost I think. Is this sufficient?
Got the Isspro pyrometer installed and working. Opted for steering column placement to keep the gauge in the same eyeline as the dash. Works great and doesn't obscure important info.
Here's a close up of the tablet. Shows the max recorded values from a WOT test drive this evening in a PHP 80HP performance tune:
I'm starting to wonder if the Hydra prevents the PCM from "seeing" more than 25 PSI boost? Can't seem to get above that number. ICP hit ~3200 (bodes well for the used L99 HPOP). EGT maxed just under 1200° IIRC. "Turbo pressure delta" hit 13PSI. I'm sure y'all will be able to decipher this info better than I.
Finally got the Dorman coolant bottle in. Works great with no leaks and makes the engine bay look less decrepit. The old bottle is disgusting with some kind of sludge at the bottom (fluid is fine, though).
Still need to check fuel PSI but will likely do so after the trip this weekend. Will also hook an analog gauge up to the y pipe and compare to the sensor reading.
Oh. Sorry I can't help with Torque Pro since I have never messed with it. I'll page @Tugly for you. He can verify.
Boost should be the difference between MAP and BARO, not MAP and EBP. The difference between MAP and EBP is an odd way of figuring out Drive:Boost ratio.
Do you not have a separate boost gauge? If you are getting more than 24psi boost and you are not getting an SES light, then the tune is probably suppressing the true reading from the MAP Sensor. I forget what the FSD of the MAP Sensor is at the moment but I think it is not far from 25psi.
Oh. Sorry I can't help with Torque Pro since I have never messed with it. I'll page @Tugly for you. He can verify.
Boost should be the difference between MAP and BARO, not MAP and EBP. The difference between MAP and EBP is an odd way of figuring out Drive:Boost ratio.
Do you not have a separate boost gauge? If you are getting more than 24psi boost and you are not getting an SES light, then the tune is probably suppressing the true reading from the MAP Sensor. I forget what the FSD of the MAP Sensor is at the moment but I think it is not far from 25psi.
The way I read this she is
- using a calculated channel (MAP-atmospheric) for “Boost” reading.
- using EBP - “boost” = the delta reading, which is correct for reading drive:EBP ratios (edit) seeing a quick reference of pressure differential.
24 or 25 is the PCM “boost” limit. It can’t read more than that. PHP tunes will prevent the SES for overboost and the reading will top out (read mine through Edge CTS). I never used the PID for boost until I was watching for my boost:EBP condition recently. The CTS1 doesn’t have calculated channels (not that I know of anyhow) so I just compare the readings.
The turbo pressure differential is good for towing and for a few other things. Too much differential while towing (not a WOT test), might indicate an issue with your compressor wheel. TDP for me shows my backpressure while engine braking, and it shows what's going on the the EBPV while driving when the weather is really cold. "Why is the truck so slug... oh. EBPV active."
Your ICP 3200 might be good... or not. You need to log the data to see how that 3200 PSI was reached.
Your IPR maxed out, but your scale tops at 50%. That scale needs to be set to 100 when scrutinizing your WOT performance. I set mine at 50% because I know my truck. I suspect you will see a Stinky Spike, but that needs to be verified.
Your boost is covering the Ford logo... bad FTE-er. You will hear a knock at the door soon, be calm... it's just the therapy team assigned to you.
Got new partially threaded 10.9 bolts and found a gasket at the auto parts store that seems to fit well.
The gasket ID is ~2 inches (larger than the ID of the exhaust manifold ball flange) and has a metal center. This should mean that, if the gasket suffered a catastrophic failure, it should blow out vs being sent to the turbo.
Torqued both bolts to 30 ft-lb and did the soap water test. Seals completely! I put on the brakes and revved it in drive a little, still no bubbles. Have to take it for a test drive to know for sure if it'll hold under WOT... currently refreshing the overload springs so u-bolts are off. Will have it back together on Wednesday, so will find out then.
It has been almost a week now, how are the gaskets holding up? Have you had a chance to drive the truck much in order to put them to the test or is it in waiting for the Wyse 4R100?
I have saved the part number and images you noted for us for future reference for someone facing a similar issue in the future. Thank you for taking the time to document your steps and parts utilized.
