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I suggest getting the up pipe's clamp as even around the flare on the end of the up pipe to ensure the best seal. It may be askew relative to the manifold but that is okay as long as it is not bending the bolts.
As for the pedestal, I suggest a stud conversion to prevent the holes from stripping out. Yes I realize your Irate kit has the collector separate from the pedestal but you can still stud it.
Looks fairly normal to me. I don’t believe the 2 I’ve worked on are very straight on the manifold.
I recommend cleaning up the rust before getting everything mounted though. I did not and had trouble sealing a leak due to the lumpy manifold. Ended up having to seal the manifold to head later and cleaned up the rust while it was out. The uppipe sealed up ok after that.
I also recommend cleaning the manifold bells with wire wheel and make them as smooth as possible.
Seems like I always put the top together first and then stretch the bellows as needed to pull the pipes on the manifolds - tightening the bolts in such a way to pull the flanges onto the manifolds evenly.
Yes, I second the start at the top and do the manifold connection last philosophy. This is what I recommended in the install write up as well. Lessons learned from when doing mine. I only barely started the uppipe bolts (normal process for me to hand start everything first) but this put the topside connections in a bind and I had a small amount of trouble up there (can’t remember exactly what) due to it.
I agree with the thoughts above about installing the up pipes. Top side first and then the manifold union.
I also agree with light smoothing of the manifold contact points. I feel that your driver side up pipe would seal OK, but you may want to keep an eye on it. Perhaps after a couple of heat cycles it will mold/bend a bit better.
Both my driver side and passenger side up pipes are lined up straight with the manifolds. The pictures below are of the driver side only since that is the side in question.
@FordTruckNoob That's a good idea. Will make sure the champ thingy is symmetrical to the flare.
I went over the machined part of the header casting with sand paper a few days ago so it's as smooth as I can reasonably get it with the manifolds still in the truck.
In looking at the RR bellowed up pipe guide, noticed their pipe seems to be at a similar angle to mine. I guess this is just within natural variation of the parts? Wish I had taken some photos of mine before I took it apart.
The assembly method y'all described is similar to what I started with; get the bolts through the manifold and up pipes, start the nuts, bolt collector to bracket, tighten the nuts.
Anyway, I'm thinking of wiping some exhaust putty on the surface of the manifold's mating surface just to give it the best chance of sealing.
Life decided this project needed more fun so it is presenting me with another fitment issue; down pipe is touching the firewall.
I can't tell whether it's just grazing the FW because of the added thickness of the wrap or whether it's actually pressing in to the insulation. Basically if the adapter elbow was less wide (completed it's 90 degree closer to the turbo), there wouldn't be a problem.
With the adjustments available theres no way I can move the down pipe away from the firewall without it hitting the up pipes/back of engine and being angled down too much to line up with the stock exhaust.
I've heard of some people sticking a pry bar in there to spread the FW and pipe apart, or removing the pipe and hammering the FW, or even loosening the engine mounts and sliding the engine forward slightly.
Loosen engine and transmission mounts and slide entire assembly forward relative to frame. Alternatively (or addtionally), loosen cab mounts and slide cab backwards on frame. You'll be amazed just how much clearance you can get by doing this. Just don't slide the engine so far forward that the starter contacts the crossmember.
From your pictures, it looks like you could loosen the v-band clamp at the turbine outlet and rotate your DP down a little too.
Loosen engine and transmission mounts and slide entire assembly forward relative to frame. Alternatively (or addtionally), loosen cab mounts and slide cab backwards on frame. You'll be amazed just how much clearance you can get by doing this. Just don't slide the engine so far forward that the starter contacts the crossmember.
Also look at the passenger body line between the cab and bed. This line is often off on the cab side. On my truck I lined up the body lines using large washers on the body mounts. When I did this it gave me more room around the downpipe because of the slight cab shift. It also trued up the body lines.
Loosen engine and transmission mounts and slide entire assembly forward relative to frame. Alternatively (or addtionally), loosen cab mounts and slide cab backwards on frame. You'll be amazed just how much clearance you can get by doing this. Just don't slide the engine so far forward that the starter contacts the crossmember.
Is this something I can do in a parking lot with nothing but my hands, wrenches, maybe some straps and a hydraulic floor jack? It seems like shifting the engine and trans forward even half an inch would solve this problem. But how would I pull the engine forward?
Originally Posted by FordTruckNoob
From your pictures, it looks like you could loosen the v-band clamp at the turbine outlet and rotate your DP down a little too.
You'd think so but that means hitting the up pipe/having the downpipe point below the stock exhaust. I think it's still contacting the firewall even at that angle too.
@brokestroke the completist in me would prefer that option but given my evirons and tools, I don't think I have a means of moving or lifting the cab, unless there's a method that I'm overlooking.
If I losen the cab mounting bolts would I just have me and my partner give a few pushes from the front?
