That's something I haven't tried yet. I did retorque all of the bolts when the covers were off (passenger bank were all loose), but didn't try it while hot. I would have expected them to at least sound a little better after the cold torque, but just sounds worse.

 

Yo PRIUS,

Do you have the oring off the old AIH to try on the glowsh%t plug to see if that will seal it? IF not maybe just hack the element off the old aih and put it back in there to eliminate the leak for now?

I dont get why the plug doesnt fit, it came out of a 5.9 cummins. and matches the plugs out of a 24v 5.9, and 6.7 common rail cummins.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-question.html

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Do you have a video of the truck idling before you tore it apart?

 

Not sure. Seems to be a smaller thread size.

I did a little more research on the OTW/radiator thing:

(OP in this thread asked if they should delete the OTW lines)

And I saw this on Wyse's FB page:

(recommends deleting the OTW cooler in other posts)

I get the feeling that builders seem to prefer this because, since the 6.0 cooler can provide adequate cooling on its own, they'll tend to see more failures from the OTW cooler failing vs the transmission overheating.

The concern about low air flow situations is valid, but this is probably less of an issue with the 6.0 cooler since it has so much surface area; as long as the delta between the ambient air and the cooler temp is within a certain range, sufficient cooling can likely occur via convection.

I think I'll go ahead and return the radiator, and put that money towards the transmission freight charges.

 

We are talking about this yesterday.

Scratch that... I now seem to recall you using an OEM spider that you modified...

The Ford spider IAH port supposedly fits the Cummins drain plug, but the Irate Y-pipe may not be the same size. Unless the plug you have that is not sealing well in the Irate Y-pipe is supposed to fit the Ford IAH port, then it is a mystery.

 

Yeah I'm using the hacked up Ford spider. It's a mystery. I'll see if I still have the heating element and see about cutting that up/making it work.

 

I’ll agree the OTW cooler isn’t ‘necessary’, but deleting it and the bypass is just dumb.

It ‘probably’ doesn’t hurt to retorque injector hold down bolts, but it’s highly unlikely that will solve your problem. This anomaly (loosening bolts) has a very small rate of occurrence and has only been discussed in one place and promoted by one person in the almost 30yrs of the 7.3 PSD. Please be careful not to break an injector hold down bolt if you choose to tighten them. Do not use a questionable or cheap TQ wrench. The consequences are bad.

As far as concerns for your transmission, if it’s not slipping or acting weird - I’d drive it like I never saw the junk in the pan. I understand concerns about long trips and towing leaving you in a bad situation, but I highly recommend AAA premium with RV coverage or Good Sam Club, etc as a back up plan to get home IF you had a problem. AAA will tow 200mi once and 100mi (3) times and some of the RV plans have options to take your junk HOME from anywhere. I’d like to see y’all enjoy this rig for what you’ve built it for and chances of catastrophic failure are not that high. I drove my Excursion for a year with a BAD transmission that I could make slip easily and if I didn’t baby it, it SLAMMED into gears and did terrible things. I did not tow with it when it was that bad (my camper was 12.5k lbs), but I literally drove cross country with it and the final trip was GA to AR to get a BTS 4R100 - because that is hands down, no competition THE BEST option available. I HIGHLY recommend this pilgrimage and transmission if you can pull it off. Brian is one of the smartest 7.3 people on Earth and you can learn more spending a day with him than you can in months of reading contradictory crap all over the interwebs.

 

I've scrolled up and down a couple of times in this thread, and am still failing to make the connection between the IAH port threads and the OTW cooler.

 

Two different "items" of discussion taking place simultaneously.

Debate of using OTW or not and a separate discussion of why the Cummins plug dies not fit the modified OEM spider.

 

Not sure what’s happening here but that Cummins plug looks smaller than I remember.

Might try just running down to the parts store with your other plug and have them pull a plug for you to look at. I do remember the Cummins plug threads were longer than needed so I cut it off. Believe I used a copper gasket to seal to the spyder but it’s been a while so my memory is fading on that topic.

 

I did a quick search, Looks like they changed thread to m18-1.50 in 2003 when they went common rail, and that is what all but 1 of the plugs i have are from. That would explain it. Sorry Prius, I should have sent the one large one that i had, but it looked oddball against the other 3 like you have.

So the 24v vp44 5.9 which ended in 2002 appears to be the last 5.9 with the m22 thread oil drain plug.

 

The M22 plug costs me ~$5 at the autoparts store. I usually ask for a 2000 5.9 Cummins oil plug.

Ive also JB welded a 1” x 1/4” NPT bushing in that hole and never had a leak. It’s hard to tap the oil drain plug for boost sender, etc.

 

@SkySkiJason BTS was definitely on the top of the list, but the realities of life prevent me from driving there, and a three month wait+ the higher cost would not be practical. Given the build list on the Stage 2 Wyse, I think it will be more than suitable for my needs.

I'll fill the transmission up with fluid and continue to drive it locally until the Wyse gets here.

I'll also hold off on the injectors if the knocking noise isn't a sign that the engine is getting damaged.

 

Little update:

Made the go-shift AIH plug work by fitting an unused turbo pedestal o-ring on it from the Irate kit. Doesn't look pretty but seems to do the job.

Also changed the rear differential fluid and fitted a new aluminum cover since the old one was quite rusted and the dormab cover was cheap. Used studs and locking nuts instead of bolts because studs make everything better:



Also refilled the transmission with fresh filter and fluid. It worked fine under spirited driving, with the only oddity being some indecisive OD shifting near the end.

Before I filled the tank I noticed a lot of air bubbles flowing through the Racor filter. Going to check it again tomorrow to rule out the compression fitting... If it's not the fitting the stainless lines build in to the fuel tank cap might be at fault, or the Racor housing itself.

I was also finally able to get a great recording of the intermittent knock. It's loud enough to the point that people new to the truck ask about it. As mentioned before, starts to manifest more as the truck warms up.


I believe I started hearing it after I gave the truck it's first oil and fuel filter change, along with a new power-steering pump. Since then a different HPOP, new HPOP lines, rebuilt IPR, four-line feed, original black CPS, new IPC sensor, new EBP sensor, new turbo, hutch mod/Racor filter, torqued injectors, and Hydra have not helped. If anything, it's more frequent/louder now.

On the turbo side of things, the power available in OD at free way speed continues to amaze. The person riding with me today even noted how impressive the responsiveness is.

 

How many miles since you messed with the hpop and lines? Coud.it just be air causing your noise?