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It looks like you could do a better job centering the up-pipe on the manifold. Try loosening the side that is too close and then tightening the other side. Ultimately, we’d like to see the same amount of thread past each nut...
There is absolutely positively no way to center the flange on the manifold without the flex joint on the up pipe touching the engine. It's already just a couple of millimeters from touching the engine as it is. The way it is now is as close to centered as it can physically be without bending the pipe.
I was very unimpressed with the ARTR header wrap's lack of durability, so I replaced the up pipe wrap with the DEI basalt stuff...MUCH BETTER! So much better I'm convinced the ARTR stuff is just coated fiberglass instead of basalt fiber. The DEI stuff doesn't spew a cloud of fibers whenever it's moved, the weave allows one to stretch it tighter around the pipe, and you get more coverage out of the roll because it wraps tighter. Highly recommend using stainless hose clamps to secure the ends as they can get much tighter than the stainless zip ties. If you use them make sure the screw portion of the lower clamps are angled towards the back of the truck so they don't mess with the up pipe/manifold bolts.
Where did you buy the DEI wrap? I'd like to look into this for my uppipes based on your feedback and some of the reviews on the ARTR product.
I have used high temperature copper sealant on an exhaust pipe I had to butt joint together with a slip over union. Although, that was NOT a drive pressure pipe or upstream from the turbine. The Permatex worked well for the few years it was in service, but was well below 500° and was on the exhaust side downstream from the turbine.
If I had this sort of leak, I would not use a malleable substance or sealant for the same reasons SSJ mentioned.
Are you happy with the observed performance regarding EGT, boost and throttle response? Perhaps let sleeping dogs lie unless the dog wakes up and pisses in your Cheerios.
I disconnected the up pipe and found several more leaks:
Proceeded to sand the mating surface... Started at 80 grit and went up to 400.
Hooked it up, let it idle, and did the ol soap n water test:
That's just idling. Imagine its much worse under load. Checked the passenger up pipe, negligible bubbles.
Only recourse at this point is a gasket. I'll make some calls tomorrow and see what options are available.
We have a camping trip scheduled for this weekend (under 40 mile drive... I figure the transmission should be okay). Would like to get this sorted before then.
Well, at least it is only Monday and you have a few days to figure things out. If you cannot fix the leaks in time, I imagine things will be just fine for the 80 mile round trip. To be sure though, you need an EGT gauge.
To minimize risk or make things easier on your mind, you can just run it on a stock tune. It will feel lethargic, but it will be much safer.
I would stop trying to make the awkward angle work and make the pipe meet the flange as it was designed to. Address the other clearance issues separately.
Obviously the pitting is a contributing factor. Hopefully smoothing that down will also help.
With stock tuning, there will be far less soot presenting than if you were running dp tooner or similar ‘smokey’ tunes. This type of drive pressure leak is devastating to power, economy and EGT. You would likely see even the small changes you’ve made if you were monitoring boost and EGT.
I disconnected the up pipe and found several more leaks:
Proceeded to sand the mating surface... Started at 80 grit and went up to 400.
Hooked it up, let it idle, and did the ol soap n water test:
That's just idling. Imagine its much worse under load. Checked the passenger up pipe, negligible bubbles.
Only recourse at this point is a gasket. I'll make some calls tomorrow and see what options are available.
We have a camping trip scheduled for this weekend (under 40 mile drive... I figure the transmission should be okay). Would like to get this sorted before then.
I looked back through your thread to see why you have so little clearance for your up pipes but did not find anything. When you mounted the base plate and pedestal/up pipes in the valley, did you slide them all the way forward? I know there isn't much clearance in the bolt holes but that may be all it takes. Perhaps someone else with an Irate kit can chime in.
Ideally the plate would have a chamfer machined on it to match the angle of the flare. As it looks right now, you have a thin narrow line of contact above the actual sealing surface. I really don't know a good solution seeing that the clamp plate is captured by flare.
I disconnected the up pipe and found several more leaks:
I would file down the seam that is on the up-pipe flange. The one on the lower right of the pipe. While I was at it I would smooth the entire flange surface with a stone. Thats what I did on my T4 anyways.
