Cab mounts loosen from inside the cab with a socket. Then put a bottle jacket under the body and lift it.

 

Loosen aforementioned mounts then drive really fast then brake really really hard.

I used an electric winch with one end hooked to the back of the transmission and the other end hooked to the front crossmember. I also lifted the engine with a hoist. You achieved the same thing with a comealong and a jack under the block.

 

If all else fails, forget about aligning to the stock exhaust. Make the DP work and then find a way to make connection to the exhaust. I ended up using the Sous flex hose method. But if it’s close you could just “massage” the stock pipe over into place.

 

@RacinJasonWV this is as far down as I can rotate the DP while still leaving a little clearance between it and the up pipes/engine:






Even in this position it's still touching the FW a little.

@brokestroke Ah I see what you mean now. That should be too hard as I need to dig in to the cab anyway to replace trim, vacuum out all the dust. Here's the lines on the rear passenger side:

Cab does seem slightly lower than the bed vs the driver's side.

I guess what I'll do is try what brokestroke suggested and see where that gets me. If after that I need additional clearance I'll try pulling the engine forward a little (hopefully won't be necessary).

 

Sorry no pics for now. Wife fell on camper steps, we are at hospital now waiting for x-rays of her foot/ankle

 

Oh no! We all hope she will be comfortable again soon.

 

Fingers crossed!

 

Good lord that sounds awful! Ankles seem like they exist just to get hurt. Wishing her a speedy recovery!

 

Im not sure about moving the engine ‘forward’. I’ve swapped a few (dozen) engines and there is very limited front to back ‘adjustment’ available, but there is quite a bit of left to right (the engine mount holes are slotted in that direction.) I’m not sure how much this would help, but you’d definitely need an engine hoist to pull it off.









There is more fore/aft adjustment available from the cab mounts, but that doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll be able to move your cab back enough to make it worth the effort required to do so. You need a minimum cab to bed clearance to avoid body damage as the frame flexes quite a bit and contact would cause unwanted damage. I usually remove rear seat to be able to pull carpet out of the way enough to access the cab bolts behind the front seats. Loosening these bolts the first time without an impact wrench would be a DRAG and rust can quickly make it not possible AND a nightmare.

I have added a dent to the downpipe in the spot where you appear to have contact. A few whacks with a ball peen hammer and I feel like I’m building a steel drum mon. (Best Jamaican accent?)

I might consider waiting to do this until after you drive the truck to see if it’s an issue.

 

I thankfullly have the new Milwaukee mid torque so it made very quick work of the cab mount bolts. Picked up a couple thicknesses and diameters of washer (basically all they had) and jacked up the cab on the passenger side. Unfortunately the thickest washer is too thick, and the thinnest washer doesn't have enough diameter. Plus this didn't really provide much more clearance for the pipe.

I've undone the transmission and engine mount bolts... evidently this is how much adjustment I have to work with:



I suppose it might be worth a try? If that doesn't work sounds like denting the down pipe could certainly work, as inelegant of a solution as that is.

 

If all cab bolts are loose, try pushing the cab back on frame?

 

Guess you’ve never put headers on a 65 Falcon. There is no “elegant” solution there. All 3 sets have required custom “clearancing”. Install, mark, remove, dent, repeat….

Seriously though, it’s on the back of the DP so once done you won’t even know it’s been “massaged”. I differ in opinion with SSJ on this one. I feel like it’s much easier to do now than after everything is installed. A little contact with the firewall makes a big noise.

 

You could also join the OBS crowd and show that firewall who's the boss with a hammer. Doesn't look like it would take much massaging to get the clearance you need, assuming pushing the cab back doesn't help.

 

Haha I can't say I have. Actually, before I got this truck in December, my auto knowledge consisted of "skinny pedal makes go, big pedal does a stop" and "how to change oil". Everything since has been a learning experience.

I tightened the cab bolts up after the shimming didn't work... Honestly too lazy to undo them all again just to try and shift the cab. Engine bolts are still off so will grab a come along and see how far that gets me. If I need to I'll remove the DP and massage it. I thought about hammering on the FW but it's hard for me to picture getting a big enough hammer swing to the spot (not much upper body strength).

 

For real?!? I think you’ve found your calling. Assumed you’d been wrenching for years with your solid questions, ideas, and actions. You definitely learn quickly. Keep up the awesome work!