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Thanks! Just goes to show how helpful the community here is.
I tried the suggestion of jacking up the engine, attaching a come along to the rear of the transmission and pulling it forward. Started seeing the transmission flex but the engine didn't want to move so I called it quits. Don't want to rusk mucking something up.
I could take the DP out, unwrap it, hammer on it, etc, but after examining a little closer I think what's happening is the firewall insulation is a bit loose where the DP is contacting it and not actually contacting the firewall itself. Here's a video to show what I mean:
See how the insulation contracts/flexes as the DP is pushed up? Tells me it's hanging off the firewall somewhat loosely there. It could probably be pushed up farther but the bottom of the DP hits the exhaust shield by the transmission.
Here's a video showing the overall fitment. I think in this configuration it should be fine:
I tried the suggestion of jacking up the engine, attaching a come along to the rear of the transmission and pulling it forward. Started seeing the transmission flex but the engine didn't want to move so I called it quits.
There is no significant fore/aft adjustment for the engine... Its also 1000lbs of engine plus transmission, so it doesn’t really want to slide around.
I could take the DP out, unwrap it, hammer on it, etc, but after examining a little closer I think what's happening is the firewall insulation is a bit loose where the DP is contacting it and not actually contacting the firewall itself. Here's a video to show what I mean:
This was why I suggested waiting to verify you actually have contact. That said, even if it doesn’t touch idling in Park, it may make contact accelerating or when frame/body flexes driving over uneven terrain.
It is more ‘work’ to take it apart later and massage the pipe (and/or firewall - use a 2x4 or similar so you can swing the sledge hammer) - but not as much as you’ve done with engine/trans bolts, etc.... Basically just remove cold CAC pipe and unhook exhaust tubing, right?
Because I don't want to tear this apart again, I took out the downpipe and gave it a good hammering on the contact point. Probably hammered more than I needed to but oh well. Fits with no firewall contact.
Installed the HPOP, fuel bowl, and associated lines:
All lines clear without rubbing on eachother:
Fittings look a little busy but are easy to get to with a wrench.
Drained about ~ 20 gallons from the fuel talk (I think that leaves me with around 1/4 full) in preparation to do the hutch n harpoon mod. Hooked the 12v battery straight to the pump which wasn't fast but it got the job done. Figure on putting the racor behind the transfer case:
I dont really see any holes that could be usable for mounting, so might have to drill my own.
Also does the oil riser/fill tube use a standard size o-ring? Mine is too swollen to measure.
Good call on the DP in my opinion. I noticed over the weekend that I get what sounds like DP contact when the frame is flexed (think off road with a downhill twist). Not bad enough to address but annoying to know it’s there.
Looking good. Can’t wait to see the finished results.
Because I don't want to tear this apart again, I took out the downpipe and gave it a good hammering on the contact point. Probably hammered more than I needed to but oh well. Fits with no firewall contact.
Installed the HPOP, fuel bowl, and associated lines:
All lines clear without rubbing on eachother:
Fittings look a little busy but are easy to get to with a wrench.
Drained about ~ 20 gallons from the fuel talk (I think that leaves me with around 1/4 full) in preparation to do the hutch n harpoon mod. Hooked the 12v battery straight to the pump which wasn't fast but it got the job done. Figure on putting the racor behind the transfer case:
I dont really see any holes that could be usable for mounting, so might have to drill my own.
Also does the oil riser/fill tube use a standard size o-ring? Mine is too swollen to measure.
Nice work with the protective sleeve over the hoses. Maybe twist the DS fuel supply line slightly to give the ICP Sensor pigtail more clearance when it is plugged in.
Ah, I was hoping it'd be a standard size so I could pick it up at the hydraulic supply.
So with the hutch mod, I'm having difficulty getting the 3/8 hose clamped tight enough on the tube that exits the fuel tank:
Clamp is tightened so much it's starting to deform. Should I try and get the hose over the lip?
Surprisingly when I opened up the tank the pickup foot was completely intact. Replaced it with the aluminum elbow @SkySkiJason kindly sent me. Nice thing about alu is that, even if the elbow is slightly too long, it'll just bend to fit when you tighten the ring on the tank.
Found a bunch of small metal particles/flakes on the bottom of the tank. Pretty sure that's the source of the metal I found in the bottom of the fuel bowl. Perhaps a gas station pump giving up the ghost?
*EDIT* clamps tightened properly once the hose was shoved over the lip. No way it's getting off
That is the best way to slide the hose on. I use this detail at the pump as well. I don’t find the quick connect fittings ‘suck air’ the way the internet parrot talkers often say, so I leave them at the tank to make it easier to remove if it’s ever needed.
Yeah I probably didn't need to remove the stock quick disconnect supply fitting. I guess my rationale was "if the o-rings in them are degraded and letting air in, then I have to drop the tank again". Something I really don't want to do.
Here's what I came up with for mounting the Racor filter:
And mocked up on the frame:
Used these predrilled holes in the frame as there were no other holes available and I didn't want to potentially create a source for cracks by improperly drilling new holes.
If I hadn't the angle iron on hand, I would have bought some thicker stuff to reduce flexion. Angle and plate plate are secured with 3/8 grade 8 bolts and nyloc nuts. The filter is secured with 1/4th bolts/nuts.
Rubber bushings are used on both sides of the filter to help with vibration.
Use one nut on the bolt to compress the bushings, and a lock nut to attach the bolt to the plate.
There holes on the top of the frame about 1ft back from the transfer case, a piece of angle iron will bolt to it and the filter thru that. But your way looks good too
That's what I've seen in other's builds but no free holes on the top of my frame between the tank and transfer case.
Wonder if it's an E99 thing.
Yeah the end is in sight. The big thing I'm waiting on is batt cable terminals and crimper; mine are shot and I need to fix the alternator lug as well. Should get those parts early next week.
Got the filter mounted and pumbed in to new fuel supply line.
No kinks coming off of the fuel tank.
New line protected by 3/4 loom and secured with zip ties.
New fuel pump installed as well. Old one was evidently fine, but I had already gotten a new pump on the presumption that it was dying so why not put it in.
Looking good! Can’t wait to hear this thing fire up.
Heads up, this type of blue splice connector can sometimes cause connection issues. I’ve used them plenty of times but just wanted you to know for an easier run down if you ever have any issues.
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Its also 1000lbs of engine plus transmission, so it doesn’t really want to slide around. 
