Air in fuel will absolutely cause a ‘knock’. If tank is over 1/2 full, the compression fitting in tank is submerged and cannot suck air.

Did you rebuild the FPR yet?

 

The rear differential covers looks pretty sharp. I have not done that yet despite changing my differential fluid several times. Maybe one day...

Any further news on the 4R100 replacement? Scheduled, still deciding, waiting it out?

As mentioned above air in the fuel will absolutely cause a small knock or tick. I saw this first hand when I first bought my truck 8 years ago. I accomplished the H/H mods when I installed an auxiliary tank in the bed and immediately noticed a difference in idle and running sound.

Outstanding news on the turbo front! My wife has had similar reactions when riding with me, which she usually doesn't because she is in a chase vehicle. She said "the power from the engine seems more smooth and quick than before". I agree with her in both respects.

 

I also used the Dorman diff cover to replace my rusting unit. Like you, I painted it black as the aluminum shine was too much ‘show’ under the truck for my taste. This is a really nice, cheap part for upgrading. Hope you have as much luck with it as I have.

 

IIRC ~100 miles? The noise happened before I touched the HPOP, just has gotten more frequent since.

I checked the Racor this morning idling with a full tank. Didn't see any air, and the noise still occured after it warmed up. Seems like the compression fitting is leaking, but isn't the source of the knock.

Yes the FPR was rebuilt when I resealed the fuel bowl.

Got on Wyse's wait-list for a stage two. Looking at about 4-6 weeks lead time.

At ~40ish dollars it's a no brainer, and easier than derusting the steel one. After about 30 miles of driving I was surprised at how much more heat it was radiating vs the steel around it.

Finally got a new ignition lock cylinder installed and the steering column put back together. Nice to not need a vice grip to start the truck!

 

@PriusLover , how is the paint and cosmetic enhancements on the engine holding up after putting some miles on it?

 

I haven't noticed any issues. There's a layer of dust from living on a busy street, and some hard to notice scrapes from installing things. Aside from that seems to be holding up well to the temperatures. I'm especially impressed with how the brush-on BBQ paint is holding up on the turbine housing and exhaust. It's cooked to a dull finish but isn't flaking off. The techflex loom seems to be holding up well.

Next time I work in the engine bay I'll snap some pics for documentation.

To be fully transparent, the major reason I went through the effort of the deep clean and new paint and loom stems from my hate of having dirty, greasy hands when working on stuff. Plus I thought it'd help add some dollars to resale value if we ever decide to go that route.

 

Noooooooo!

 

I'd like to see some pics of how the BBQ paint is holding up.

How hot have you gotten the EGTs on this set up?

 

Here's some quick shots. As you can see the turbine housing has become matte while the rest of the exhaust still has some satin finish. TDS for this paint says it's a alkyd modified with silicone, with heat resistance up to 1200 F.

Don't have an EGT gauge so can't answer the second one. Based on what others have reported, doesn't seem like I really need one (especially if I get 160/30's)?

 

Still looks very good! I think you're on the right thinking track for injectors. I have 160/0's and absolutely love them. If only I had a turbo worth something..

 

Yeah it's either going to be 160/30s or 205/30 hybrids. There seems to be good arguments for either... it's easy to get hang up on the much lower calculated injection pressure of the hybrid but that singular variable doesn't tell the whole story.

Here's some testing KC did that really illuminates the issue:



The problem is generalizing this data: it was collected on a max PW tune, 180/30 vs 160/30, and uses a larger turbine than the one I have. How does it translate to a lower tune, slightly smaller injectors, and a smaller turbine, and what do those insights tell us?

 

The BBQ paint looks quite good. I used VHT flameproof in silver on my MST turbine and it did not go well. Same for the 364.5 SXE turbine. Rust started coming through. I have had good success with the VHT flameproof in black though. Same with VHT high temp in black satin, good to go there.

Thanks for sharing the pictures with us, we do love pictures.

Also, I'm with RacinJasonWV when I say "noooooooope".

 

I had to get that “No” up to 10 characters.

 

I’ll have to take a current pic of my turbo, etc painted with VHT Flameproof almost 10yrs ago. I’ve had excellent results with this product (all colors) and highly recommend it. Surface prep and adequate coating thickness is required for success. I also have the ability to bake the parts as recommended by the manufacturer.

An EGT gauge is absolutely required anytime you deviate from stock tuning. No exceptions. Sure, if everything is ok and you’ve got good tunes, EGT will never be an issue. But anything that adds more fuel than stock absolutely has the ability to melt a piston and there is no way to know without being able to monitor EGT.

I’ve put gauges in a few trucks that showed up here with a chip and no EGT. I told the owners to go drive in that hot tune they like and report back after installing gauges. They were exclusively horrified how easy it was to get to 1400* or more - especially climbing mountains around here.

I have a lot of respect for Charlie and team at KC turbos, but that data is not helpful for your situation. Just the fact that 180/xx does not compare to 160/0-160/30 is enough to discard the data for your consideration. For the record, 180/xx is a dumb injector size. I don’t have any experience with ‘205/30’ but I can’t see the additional cost of this injector being worth it over a 160/30 that is basically awesome in every way and makes about the same power.

 

Be careful, you might start painting things under your hood again