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up here with a chip and no EGT. I told the owners to go drive in that hot tune they like and report back after installing gauges. They were exclusively horrified how easy it was to get to 1400* or more - especially climbing mountains around here.
Did any of these folks have an SXE? I guess the common thing I see with folks who have gone the SXE route around here is that EGTs are rendered a non issue for all but the most extreme situations.
Did any of these folks have an SXE? I guess the common thing I see with folks who have gone the SXE route around here is that EGTs are rendered a non issue for all but the most extreme situations.
Probably, unless you encounter an unknown issue. EGT is a pretty important item to monitor on a diesel. I would even recommend it to someone running stock. You just never know when something is amiss and causing a concern. For example leaking uppipes on a stock truck. Or even with the T4 you could blow out a bellow.
Sure, you would be likely to catch it by feel but I like to know how hot it’s running.
Did any of these folks have an SXE? I guess the common thing I see with folks who have gone the SXE route around here is that EGTs are rendered a non issue for all but the most extreme situations.
When I install upgraded injectors, etc - EGT’s are never an issue except doing something dumb in a hot tune. Sure, the SXE is ‘better’ but stock turbos do a great job of set up correctly and running good tunes.
What RJWV said is the best reason. It only takes a small drive pressure or boost leak to throw your world out of whack. You can easily send EGT through the roof without knowing it.
Never knowing in the first place is like flying blindfolded. Believe me, there are ‘popular’ tuners out there putting out some really, really bad stuff. With no baseline, you could do damage before ya know it.
on edit: it’s unlikely you will ever hurt anything with stock tuning.
Talking about efficiency,has anyone studied,does turbos have an specific range of desired EGTs?
Deep in turbo science temperature deltas come into play. That is part of the the reason for insulating headers and up-pipes. I’ve read: ‘Heat is also driving the turbo’.
On that same topic, there is an argument against large diameter exhaust that says too big allows the gasses to cool and cool gasses don’t flow as well as warm gasses. This gets into laminar flow, etc. Plus, once you get serious about going fast, weight becomes a significant factor.
Deep in turbo science temperature deltas come into play. That is part of the the reason for insulating headers and up-pipes. I’ve read: ‘Heat is also driving the turbo’.
Heat is energy. If the heat dissipates before hitting the turbine then you’ve wasted some of your energy driving the turbo. Keep the heat in to retain the most energy as possible. Wrapped uppipes for dual benefit of added performance and noise reduction, however small these may be.
In the gas naturally aspirated world, exhaust velocity comes into play with scavenging the cylinders and actually helping to pull in the intake charge.
Still having a sealing issue on my driver side up-pipe, even after tightening the bolts (which seem to be deforming). FYI I sanded the sealing surface prior to connecting the up pipes.
Have to say I'm a little disappointed with the connecting block piece irate used in this kit. As you can see in the picture this one is bending from the pressure of the bolts. The block on the stock up pipes is much thicker/heavier, and the ridge that presses against the up-pipe flange has a chamfer to match the flange, distributing the clamping pressure... This one doesn't have that. Additionally the supplied bolts are weaker as they are fully threaded compared to the stock ones.
Not sure how much boost I'm loosing from this leak. Aside from trying to sand the manifold more I'm not sure how I can address this. I could try and fashion a copper ring* to sandwich between the manifold and up-pipe. I could also apply some JB Weld 1800° exhaust sealant.
Suggestions are appreciated. I have no idea how "bad" this leak is... If y'all think it's not too bad, I'll wait to address it until the transmission is out when I'll have much easier access.
*Does anyone have the ID/OD of the exhaust manifold ball joint/up-pipe mating surface?
It looks like you could do a better job centering the up-pipe on the manifold. Try loosening the side that is too close and then tightening the other side. Ultimately, we’d like to see the same amount of thread past each nut...
Yes, even a tiny leak like this HURTS performance. I would address this sooner or later. This is the type of thing that can happen over time and increased EGT may be your first indication.
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