Oh I knew exactly what you were referring to but....
Sorry PriusLover.

 

Don't kid yourself sir, women can be just as vulgar and childish as men when with a group of friends chatting about something.

 

I agree, but they dont grunt and fart, constantly grab at their crotches and end things with "thats what she said". as men tend to do

 

PriusLover, hurry up and throw another part on there and upload a photo to get this thread back on track!

 

here we go

tech

 

Haha thanks. Honestly if the driver side of my engine wasn't rusted I wouldn't have painted it. Painting while it's still in the truck is a huge pain because using any other color than black will show the spots where you can't reach, and you're limited to brush on stuff unless you really love masking and watching out for over spray. It's really easy to leave too much paint in all the nooks and crannies... that paint stays sticky and won't dry.

If I had the engine out I'd do a good single stage urethane marine paint with epoxy primer. Stuff is tough as nails. As of now I'm using Rustoleum which is ancient tech in terms of paint and scratches off if you sneeze at it too hard. Oh well, at least it looks better than rust!

As with anyone, depends upon when beans were last consumed, and how much ; P

Well the plan was to install get the FRX lines ESwift gave me shortened and install them, but the shops I've gone to wont even consider it. I guess it's a matter of liability since it's a used hose and since they don't have the hose manufacturers fittings. I was considering just sending back the RR fuel lines and getting the CNC kit, but they are so back ordered I can't even order them right now.

So I'll have to have local parker shop make me some new hoses. Per my math, still should be less money than the CNC kit at least.

Also decided to order a new Bosch fuel pump since my fuel bowl had metal flakes in. I figure after doing the hutch mod, fuel bowl reseal and new fuel pump, I can save money and forgo the expense of an in cab fuel pressure gauge.

Okay now to the stuff:

Rib was feeling a little better today, so I over exerted myself and mocked up the pedestal, up pipes, turbo, and part of the downpipe. I wanted to confirm that there'd be enough room for the fuel lines as I planned them before I start having hoses made.

Good thing I did as there's a new surprise to deal with:




To clear the head, the elbow needs to hit the trans dipstick tube. So either I need to dent the DP elbow (not ideal), or the dipstick tube needs to be bent out of the way (also not ideal). It kinda boggles my mind that a kit of this price could have a major of a fitment issue on a stock truck that it's advertised to fit without modification.

So the question is: is there a safe/non marring way to bend the tube while it's still in the truck? Or do I need to remove it, and if I do, how much of a pain is it to do?

Also got first coat on the valve covers today:



Will need to do a lot of sanding as I was too lazy to buy more foam rollers and my brush skills are not so great.

 

Maybe I missed it but why do the FRx hoses have to be shortened? In any case, you seem more than capable of assembling your own hoses. You can use the following parts to make your own:

• Aeroquip FCM3088 Teflon Racing Fitting Male Pipe -04AN Hose Size 1/8 Thread Size Steel Teflon Racing Fitting Male Pipe x 2 for the hose ends at the pressure regulator
• Aeroquip FCM1121 Steel -04AN 90-Degree Hose Fitting x 1 for the driver side head end of the hose. Reuse the -4 AN to 1/8" NPT adapter that came with the FRx.
• Aeroquip FCM1101 Steel -04AN Straight Hose Fitting x 1 for the passenger side head end of the hose. Reuse the -4 AN to 1/8" NPT adapter that came with the FRx.
• Aeroquip FCC0410-04AN Teflon Racing Hose - 10 Feet x 1. You won't need 10 feet of this stuff but once you start building your own hoses you'll want to build them for the rest of the vehicle.

 

Removing the dipstick tube on the E4OD trucks is a 13mm? bolt in the back of the head. Ratcheting wrenches are needed, not enough room for anything else. I don't have SD experience, but I'd assume it mounts similar. The trans side is just an o ring.

Sucks removing the first couple times. Now it's not as bad

 

There are better products than the BBQ paint for this application. For the most part, any good enamel will tolerate the temperatures the engine block, etc will see. ‘500*’ and ‘engine paint’ is a gimmick and the epoxies, etc are much harder to work with and cost significantly more without much benefit.

I paint engines and parts (except exhaust) with rustoleum 2x coverage spray paint. I’ll use a self etching primer for additional protection sometimes, but multiple coats of 2x does a damn good job at mitigating corrosion. For chassis painting, I prefer Rustoleum ‘Rusty Metal Primer’ with ‘High Performance Enamel’ for color/topcoat. If applied correctly, this is the most durable coating system you can use that isn’t the mess and hassle of a good 2-part epoxy. I’ve put 1000’s of gallons of epoxy on large, above ground fuel tanks, water towers and bridges and im currently using it in the showers of my new bathhouse for the ‘campground’ I’m building. This is Sherwin Williams Macropoxy 646 and the stuff is no joke. It’s also not much fun to work with.





I strongly recommend a fuel pressure gauge. This and EGT are the (2) parameters that we cannot monitor via the PCM/OBD2 port and a fuel pressure issue is not always obvious before it causes damage. I also like the ‘F650’ dash piece and frequently use it when doing vegetable oil conversions like this Vegistroke kit.





Im not sure how to handle your downpipe to dipstick tube interference. A dimple in the downpipe won’t hurt anything, but is certainly not very attractive in such a high visibility spot....

 

Sorry if I was unclear. I was going to use the FRX hoses to improvise my own four-line feed. The hoses need to be shorter to fit in their new location, and a JIC instead of NPT end would be more convenient.

Good point about making my own hoses--that was the original plan but I thought RR fuel lines and repurposed FRX might ease the ever increasing workload. If RR will let me return the fuel lines this could be a cost effective solution.

Yeah it's not ideal. Only reason I used it was due "already having it open" for the downpipe n such, and it specifying no primer needed seemed like an added bonus. I tried finding that 2x stuff you recommended but they don't have a brush on variant.

Measured out the wire harness to determine length and diameter of sleeving needed. Found a local shop that tells Techflex F6 braided wrap by the foot... should be able to get all I need for ~30 with enough for the HPOP lines too. I'll make sure to document the process for anyone who wishes to do the same.

 

Found a local Eaton supplier and picked up all the hose n fittings for the fuel lines, and fire sleeving for the turbo oil line today. The sleeving was cheap so I figured why not use it for the HPOP lines as well since it also fit.




Also worked on the trans dipstick tube. I forgot I had gotten a pipe bender at a garage sale recently... a little big for the tube but did the job.




Plenty of room now.




And dipstick still slides in easily. Hopefully the slight change in the tube won't effect the fluid level reading much.

 

I must have missed it, but why are you not using the turbo oil supply line that came with the Irate kit? Just personal preference or gut feeling perhaps?

Also, you are the first person I have read about having the 4R100 dipstick issue. I am glad to see you got it sorted out.

 

Ah my brain forgot to type a few words. Edited for clarity

 

Thank you.

 

Nice work on the hoses. Did it work out out to be cheaper than repurposing FRx hoses?