But did it say Made in Canada in this form: 加拿大制造?

 

Or did it say Made In Canada- Eh!

 

If you're going through the hassle of replacing the front seal...just buy a Melling LPOP and throw that in there. New pump, new seal for the win.

 

*I* don’t do water pump or LPOP as preventative maintenance.

These water pumps seldom fail catastrophically and could be changed on the side of the road or at camp in about an hour if you felt like driving home with a drip was too much risk.

LPOP failures are also rare and rear main seals almost never fail. I’ve seen more leaks from rear main seals that have been replaced as PM than those that leak naturally.

The carrier bearing and front (2) u-joints on my dually have 467k miles on them and have seen way overloaded conditions, MANY drag strip passes, dyno runs and sled pulls. I did recently have a pinion gear failure likely due to excessive backlash that could have probably been prevented if I had rebuilt the differential....

 

@SkySkiJason I think I'll still want to go ahead with the pump if only to gain filtration capability.

WRT the oil pump, I seem to read a lot that they get tired on high mileage trucks? Plus the new pump seems to flow around 10% more oil than the OEM part?

A friend talked a bit to Wyse and the local transmission guy a bit while I was working today. Both of them said they bypass the radiator cooler, and would recommend not putting in a new rad just for the OTW. Said they can become blocked or the lines in the rad collapse and let coolant in to the transmission, and that the 6.0 cooler is plenty of cooling by itself.

Physics side of the brain that still remembers thermodynamics lectures says to install the radiator. Aching hands and checkbook say to return it and just install the 6.0 cooler.

Not sure yet which side will win out.

 

There is no reason to filter coolant if you do adequate cooling system maintenance including flushing the system thoroughly. You’ll have an opportunity to install new cups with sealant that is compatible with OAT type extended life coolant when you change injectors. The ELC’s are ‘lifetime’ coolant for these trucks and no maintenance is required. I’m specifically not a fan of the International water pump because it doesn’t fit all that well and installing it requires compromises I don’t like. If you choose to run a coolant filter, I would consider a DIY system and mount the filter down behind the bumper for cleaner and more economical set up.

 

The only reason to bypass the radiator cooler would be if the transmission grenaded sending particles into it and your flat broke but plan on replacing it soon. The water to oil cooling from the radiator does way more cooling than the air to oil 6.0 cooler. And probably the only thing that will keep you from roasting the transmission while you are backing up a heavy load with no air flowing past that 6.blow cooler

 

I agree, the OTW is a good idea.

The E99 did not come with an OTW cooler in the stock radiator.

 

Radiator cooler is definitely worth doing at some point, when I swapped my radiator and plumbed the cooler in I saw 25 deg cooler all around on the trans with everything else being equal

 

On an aside, since the truck isn't running I haven't been able to record the kind of intermittent cackle/knocking sound that's gotten worse since the last phase of the build. However, I found a video today that shows the same damn sound:


In my case it happens at idle and especially after I let off the accelerator. As the RPM returns to idle it makes that sound very loudly with high frequency for a bit and then lessens. Can hear it in the cab, can hear it echo off of buildings I'm driving by with the windows down. As in the video it's not a constant ticking... more of a intermittent crack that's more present when the engine is warmed up.

Per the comments under the video, seems like injectors? @Tugly does what I'm describing match your experience?

 

Believe I already stated my opinion about the radiator but for some reason I feel compelled to comment.

If it were me, I would not do the water pump, radiator mods right now. Lots of other stuff going on and that’s a system that is currently working. Just leave well enough alone. If you’re not planning on towing crazy loads then just the 6.0 cooler will do fine.
Many people out there will fight like crazy stating that the radiator needs bypassed so there are lots of trucks out there running like that. Just monitor the temp and swap later if needed…But now I’m starting to remember your reasoning…due to not having a way to monitor trans temp. FORScan and an ELM dongle?

Seems like the guys recommending bypassing the rad cooler are the same ones who tell you to delete the cooler bypass. Not sure if trust their logic. I feel like the “radiator cooler blocked or broken” is a very overstated claim. How often has anyone heard of that in our trucks? Maybe the ‘potential’ blocked cooler wouldn’t matter so much if the goobers would quit deleting the bypass which causes loss of lubrication during restricted cooler conditions….

Having the radiator cooler better? Sure.
Worth the cost and work of installing when running the 6.0 cooler? Unlikely, except in the harshest conditions.

As for the 10% extra flow from the new pump, it’s rare to hear of a 7.3 overheating the coolant. I’d say the stock pump flows more than enough.

Just my 2 cents for what it’s worth.

 

Yeah if I have to do injectors then I'll flush the coolant and do the cups, which should clean the system and allow me to run ELC, thus no need for coolant filtering. I'll need to save all the money I can get for that so I'll opt to return the radiator and just use the 6.0 cooler for now.

The 10% more flow was for the LPOP, not the coolant pump. I actually have no idea what the T444E pump flows compared to Fords.

By the way, per the knock/injector situation; if I run the CCT, should the truck sound like a standard idle while the test is running?

 

Hot idle knock?

That video sounds like my truck.

I ain't scared.

If you already have the radiator in hand, and you take it back, when you go to buy it again in the future, it will most likely cost more to buy, while most likely being built cheaper.

 

Oops. I’m gonna use the excuse that it was late when I posted, but you clearly said “oil” now that I look at it again…. I’ll put my cap back on.

It seems there’s no consensus on the radiator and such. Doesn’t sound like there’s a strong reason to go either way. You have already spent so much time and money that I was just trying to save you a bit for now. Obviously do whatever you feel best about. I’m anxious for you to get this thing on the road!

I can’t comment on the noise and will let the experts chime in for that.

 

That's the sound of injector hold-down bolts needing a fresh hot-torque.